I wrote to use a "peat based compost," not just peat. Peat RETAINS nutrition in it and slow releases it to the plants. It can be dug in, as opposed to manure that needs to be mulched in at the top.
I wrote to use a "peat based compost," not just peat. Peat RETAINS nutrition in it and slow releases it to the plants. It can be dug in, as opposed to manure that needs to be mulched in at the top.
just about everything in that comment is incorrect.
Hmm. I've dug manure in to my (sandy) soil and it did no end of good, and I've spread old spent potting compost on the top of beds (to get rid of it when emptying pots) and it's done no harm, but that's just my experience and it may differ from other people's. What this forum does so well (as opposed to a textbook or internet search) is let people ask questions and get a whole range of experiences from people with different soil types, climates etc. The person asking the question can then decide what's best for them with their soil type, climate etc. And I for one enjoy reading other people's experiences and comparing, even if it's not my question.
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
I had some lectures years back on soil science as part of a degree course in plant science and the lecturer mentioned having tried to improve clay soil using grit himself on his own area of land. He said he used huge amounts to get no real improvement and using grit to improve a large area of clay soil was a waste of time.
The suggestion posted here to use John Inn's because it has loam in it sounds just as pointless as it implies trying to improve clay soil by adding more soil. That to me sounds like trying to make a lake salty by adding a couple of buckets of sea water.
Someone has also suggested adding worms to the clay soil which to me sounds equally pointless as there is no suggestion anywhere that the clay soil does not already have some earth worms already there that could be given a boost by simple addition of organic material. My home made compost always has lots of worms in it so to suggest going out and buying earth worms is a very unusual approach from what I have seen.
I have successfully improved clay soil in my parent's back garden simply by adding a regular mulch of used horse bedding and home made compost and planting deep rooting deciduous shrubs and fruit trees which encourage soil life that improves the structure of clay soil. As my soil science lecturer described it is possible to get clay soil to form in to a loose structure of peds or aggregates that clump together in lumps that allow spaces for air and water to flow through the soil and this is best done by encouraging life in the soil.
Wise words indeed @robairdmacraignil, although I feel you're about to be called a troll and turning angels' breath into dog poo or some such nonsense. Happy gardening to you too.
I have successfully improved clay soil in my parent's back garden simply by adding a regular mulch of used horse bedding and home made compost and planting deep rooting deciduous shrubs and fruit trees which encourage soil life that improves the structure of clay soil. As my soil science lecturer described it is possible to get clay soil to form in to a loose structure of peds or aggregates that clump together in lumps that allow spaces for air and water to flow through the soil and this is best done by encouraging life in the soil.
Happy gardening!
Good post @roba@robairdmacraignil . I've gardened on deep heavy clay for over 40 years. It's tough dense deep Wealden clay. Manure of any sort is what opens it out and improves it but it needs to be done again and again. Compost is good too, any organic matter helps. Grit and sharp sand only help in small targeted areas. I can't see that John Innis 3 would help either, just expensive. Drainage is also key but once it's opened up with repeated applications of organic matter the clay is fertile.
Based in Sussex, I garden to encourage as many birds to my garden as possible.
"Peat has important functions for plants. It keeps water and nutrients, and gives them steadily to plants. It has air pockets or pores to supply oxygen to plant roots and allow for drainage. . . Also, it can improve garden soils"
Having some peat underneath the manure and plant compost layers at the top is really good and really helps as peat retains nutrients from the decomposing material above and releases it steadily to plants.
Manure is always best mulched in at the top so that beneficial bacteria in it can provide nitrogen as ammonia to it from atmospheric N2 as it decomposes. Plant roots underneath it then gets a lot of nitrogen from it.
Totally agree. add muck, more muck, then when you think you've added too much muck, add some more muck. Dig it in if you must, but spreading it on top is fine. No point adding sand, or grit. Don't use peat in your borders, it has no benefit. { not talking potting composts, I know that there peat based composts have their advocates }
How can you lie there and think of England When you don't even know who's in the team
Your post is excellent @robairdmacraignil, but as we can all see, it falls on deaf ears, so again - we're all wasting our time even bothering to say any more. I'm off to cut my toenails - much more satisfying
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
It's rather a moot point because peat for domestic horticulture is soon to be banned in the UK (current plan is 2024), so we need to stop using it whether we like it or not. For myself I'll miss it most for raising seeds in trays/pots where a fine-textured compost is important.
My experience with sandy soil is that anything that helps to retain moisture added by either digging in or mulching will also help to retain nutrients, and my main go-to is home-made compost made from garden waste, veg peelings etc. Bought-in bagged rotted manure and bagged soil conditioners are good too if I've run out of homemade compost. Using ready-mixed potting compost as soil improver seems expensive to me and works less well for me because it includes sand and sometimes topsoil as well as the organic matter. I don't need any more sand in my soil, and if I want topsoil it's cheaper to buy it separately.
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
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Peat RETAINS nutrition in it and slow releases it to the plants.
It can be dug in, as opposed to manure that needs to be mulched in at the top.
Happy gardening to you too.
https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/62735
Having some peat underneath the manure and plant compost layers at the top is really good and really helps as peat retains nutrients from the decomposing material above and releases it steadily to plants.
Manure is always best mulched in at the top so that beneficial bacteria in it can provide nitrogen as ammonia to it from atmospheric N2 as it decomposes. Plant roots underneath it then gets a lot of nitrogen from it.
You are the one who is wrong and misleading.
add muck, more muck, then when you think you've added too much muck, add some more muck.
Dig it in if you must, but spreading it on top is fine.
No point adding sand, or grit.
Don't use peat in your borders, it has no benefit. { not talking potting composts, I know that there peat based composts have their advocates }
When you don't even know who's in the team
S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border
I'm off to cut my toenails - much more satisfying
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...