JI3 would be hideous added to my soil, so I certainly won't be adding that anywhere! Adding sand [even the right kind] on it's own is no use unless you add tons. Unless the border's only about two feet long.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Trolls trashing and trying to talk milk, honey, white angels and everything good & real into nonsensical dog poo and black tar.
MILLIONS of REAL GARDENERS' and the National Trust's go to soil improver is the John Innes recipe, scientifically tested and created by gardeners and real biological-scientists.
Adding JI3 - a soil based potting medium - to existing soil as a soil conditioner would be uneconomical. Places like the National Trust use things like composted fine bark as soil conditioners.
"What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour".
Your RHS link is titled JI *potting* compost. The clue is in the name. The constituent parts (including the horticultural sand) have benefits for plants contained in pots, but it is not a soil improver. Because it's in large part made of soil (loam). Adding soil into your soil is an utter waste of money and effort.
Some green manures (e.g. clover, field beans) fix N2 from the air around roots, but manure of the poo variety won't.
Please read the following article written by the RHS. If you read it carefully you will see that the John Innes recipes are intended to be used for composts for containers. JI No 3 is for mature trees and shrubs which will remain in containers for a long time.
It's primary function is not as a soil improver for borders. It won't do any harm being used like that but there are much cheaper and more efficient methods of improving border soil - ie incorporating bulky organic matter.
As to using horticultural sand: this is often added to make compost more free draining but this is compost which will again be used in containers (whether that be a seed tray, a pot or a raised bed). This makes for better conditions for sowing seeds, striking cuttings or for growing crops and plants which require a light, free draining soil such as carrots.
Adding horticultural sand to a large clay soil border is not the best way to improve drainage. Wet clay plus sand makes a mix which can set like cement (clay is an ingredient used in cement production) because the clay particles just repack around the sand.
Adding bulky organic matter and digging it in breaks down and opens up the clay soil and stops the clay particles reclumping. For very heavy clay soil the best improver is 'long' compost where there are still chunks and bits of plant material visible. That is why home made compost is so valuable. You can add it to your soil at the right stage of decomposition for your soil.
Heaven is ... sitting in the garden with a G&T and a cat while watching the sun go down
There's certainly a lot of manure around @Balgay.Hill Apologies @gjautos - I was assuming you were talking about beds/borders in general rather than veg beds. If the latter - bear in mind what @Dovefromabove is describing
@Fairygirl it is mainly flower beds I'm talking about. But I dabble with veg too. And I do mean dabble, basically plant and hope 🤣
Such a shame this thread has turned to an argument. @Jac19 I appreciate your private message but prefer to make up my own mind on people Thanks. Please try and play nicely as my old mum used to say.
@gjautos I would pay most attention to people who have been gardening for many years and know their stuff. You seem very sensible so I am sure you will ignore advice given by others. Sorry your thread has been hijacked. Good luck with your gardening
John Innes for planting does the same and I use John Innes + horticultural sand, not one. The bio scientists and gardeners at the centre developed it scientifically for planting first and adapted for potting later.
I also use farmyard manure and compost in plenty, compost dug in balanced with H Sand, slow release natural fertilizer and bacteria on top. So, sure we used it in the National Trust groups in plenty ALONG WITH H SAND. We also used Blood Fish and Bone fertilizer. Read my post mulching in manure at the top with the scientific nitrogen process before you leap.
Posts
Adding sand [even the right kind] on it's own is no use unless you add tons.
Unless the border's only about two feet long.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
MILLIONS of REAL GARDENERS' and the National Trust's go to soil improver is the John Innes recipe, scientifically tested and created by gardeners and real biological-scientists.
John Innes Centre
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=952
i have to work now.
Some green manures (e.g. clover, field beans) fix N2 from the air around roots, but manure of the poo variety won't.
Please read the following article written by the RHS. If you read it carefully you will see that the John Innes recipes are intended to be used for composts for containers. JI No 3 is for mature trees and shrubs which will remain in containers for a long time.
It's primary function is not as a soil improver for borders. It won't do any harm being used like that but there are much cheaper and more efficient methods of improving border soil - ie incorporating bulky organic matter.
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=952
As to using horticultural sand: this is often added to make compost more free draining but this is compost which will again be used in containers (whether that be a seed tray, a pot or a raised bed). This makes for better conditions for sowing seeds, striking cuttings or for growing crops and plants which require a light, free draining soil such as carrots.
Adding horticultural sand to a large clay soil border is not the best way to improve drainage. Wet clay plus sand makes a mix which can set like cement (clay is an ingredient used in cement production) because the clay particles just repack around the sand.
Adding bulky organic matter and digging it in breaks down and opens up the clay soil and stops the clay particles reclumping. For very heavy clay soil the best improver is 'long' compost where there are still chunks and bits of plant material visible. That is why home made compost is so valuable. You can add it to your soil at the right stage of decomposition for your soil.
Such a shame this thread has turned to an argument.
@Jac19 I appreciate your private message but prefer to make up my own mind on people Thanks. Please try and play nicely as my old mum used to say.
I also use farmyard manure and compost in plenty, compost dug in balanced with H Sand, slow release natural fertilizer and bacteria on top. So, sure we used it in the National Trust groups in plenty ALONG WITH H SAND.
We also used Blood Fish and Bone fertilizer.
Read my post mulching in manure at the top with the scientific nitrogen process before you leap.
Originally developed for planting, adapted for potting.
I have to work now.