I think my Gardener's Delight seeds were from somewhere like Mr Fothergills, but they are really nice yellow plum tomatoes instead. If I knew what they were I'd grow them again. In mid October now and still picking quite a few!
If you like them and as long as they are not F1 hybrids, collect your own seeds. Here is how to do is courtesy of Real Seeds -
Most modern varieties of tomato are self pollinating, and will not cross. The anthers on tomato flowers (which make the pollen) are fused together to make a tight cone that insects cannot enter. Usually the stigma (the receptive surface for receiving pollen) is very short, and so is located deep inside this cone of anthers. No insects can get to it and the only pollen that can fertilise it comes from the surrounding cone of anthers.
In a few varieties however, the stigma is much longer, sticking out beyond the cone of anthers. In this case, insects can get to it, and there is the chance of cross-pollination. Varieties with longer stigmas include potato leaved tomatoes and currant tomatoes. To avoid crossing only grow one variety with exposed stigmas. The double flowers which are sometimes formed first by many beefsteak tomatoes also often have exposed stigmas, but later single flowers will be normal.
To collect the seed, allow your tomatoes to ripen fully. Then collect a few of each variety that you want to save seed from. Slice them in half across the middle of the fruit, and squeeze the seeds and juice into a jar. You then need to ferment this mixture for a few days - this removes the jelly-like coating on each seed, and also kills off many diseases that can be carried on the seeds. To do this put the jar of seeds and juice in a reasonably warm place for 3 days, stirring the mixture twice a day. It should develop a coating of mould, and start to smell really nasty!
After 3 days, add plenty of water to the jar, and stir well. The good seeds should sink to the bottom of the jar. Gently pour off the top layer of mould and any seeds that float. Then empty the good seeds into a sieve and wash them thoroughly under running water. Shake off as much water as possible, and tip the sieve out onto a china or glass plate (the seeds tend to stick to anything else). Dry somewhere warm but not too hot, and out of direct sunlight. Once they are completely dry, rub them off the plate and store in a cool dry place, where they should keep well for at least 4 years.
I notice B&Q have revamped the listing of all their tomato seeds. They now add the word "Mix" to the end of all the variety names hence one now buys Gardeners Delight Mix, Is this a very sly way of covering themselves for whatever rubbish grows from the packet. Also, it has enabled them to remove the large number of adverse reviews about the tomatoes by selling a "New Variety" and not having the old one for sale anymore. This is a devious underhand practice to catch the unwary.
This is the second year running where our "Gardener's Delight" seeds have failed to be the correct variety... The yellow plum like ones are ok, but it's disappointing. Next year I won't be buying seeds from B&Q! Here's one of last year's crop:-
Most modern varieties of tomato are self pollinating, and will not cross. The anthers on tomato flowers (which make the pollen) are fused together to make a tight cone that insects cannot enter. Usually the stigma (the receptive surface for receiving pollen) is very short, and so is located deep inside this cone of anthers. No insects can get to it and the only pollen that can fertilise it comes from the surrounding cone of anthers.
In a few varieties however, the stigma is much longer, sticking out beyond the cone of anthers. In this case, insects can get to it, and there is the chance of cross-pollination. Varieties with longer stigmas include potato leaved tomatoes and currant tomatoes. To avoid crossing only grow one variety with exposed stigmas. The double flowers which are sometimes formed first by many beefsteak tomatoes also often have exposed stigmas, but later single flowers will be normal.
I wish that were the case. Any variety of tomato can cross-pollinate with another courtesy of busy-body insect life. The only way to guarantee pure seeds from a plant is to "bag" a truss before the flowers open.
You can use any light-coloured netting material, the mesh fine enough to keep insects out but let light and air in. I usually cut the foot sections from a pair of stockings. If you're keen, you can sew in a drawstring to create the bag. Place the bag over a truss before the flower opens. The truss will grow before the flower sets fruit so allow for that growth with the size of the bag. If you haven't sewn in a drawstring, tie the bag closed over the branch tightly, but not so tight that you damage the branch.
Once fruit has set, meaning the flower is no longer vulnerable to cross-pollination, remove the bag. Tie something - a piece of ribbon, whatever - to the truss to indicate it's the protected truss. The plant will grow and change shape before the fruit is harvested and it's easy to lose track of the fruit you bagged. I know, I've done it.
This applies to heirloom (pure) varieties. Seeds saved from a hybrid variety won't grow true to the parent.
What @Italophile said in reply about 'Any variety of tomato can cross-pollinate with another courtesy of busy-body insect life' is not correct, at least not as such a generalisation.
In terms of Biology, there is a wide spectrum in terms of a plants likelihood to self-pollinate. Or alternatively, the chances of cross-pollination being possible, the norm, or even necessary.
Tomatoes are definitely at the self-pollinating end of the spectrum, and will rarely cross-pollinate. There are exceptions, certain varieties with a particular flower structure and protruding stigma, but these are not common.
I don't want anybody to be put off tomato seed saving and would encourage anybody to do so.
Well I bought three Black Russian in one container from a local garden centre. Two normal leafed one ended up potato leafed. All three not happy with as poor truss production, they seem to flower too soon so flowers are bunched together right up against the main stem. As they grow they do split up but fruit are misshapen on those first flowers. Last year had a sun gold instead of a gardeners delight too, from same garden centre.
Chris, after 35 years of witnessing cross-pollination regardless of flower structure, I have to respectfully disagree. At absolute best you could say flower structure should reduce the chances of cross-pollination. But it doesn't prevent it. Which is why "bagging" is so widespread amongst seed savers.
Posts
I think my Gardener's Delight seeds were from somewhere like Mr Fothergills, but they are really nice yellow plum tomatoes instead. If I knew what they were I'd grow them again. In mid October now and still picking quite a few!
If you like them and as long as they are not F1 hybrids, collect your own seeds. Here is how to do is courtesy of Real Seeds -
Most modern varieties of tomato are self pollinating, and will not cross. The anthers on tomato flowers (which make the pollen) are fused together to make a tight cone that insects cannot enter. Usually the stigma (the receptive surface for receiving pollen) is very short, and so is located deep inside this cone of anthers. No insects can get to it and the only pollen that can fertilise it comes from the surrounding cone of anthers.
In a few varieties however, the stigma is much longer, sticking out beyond the cone of anthers. In this case, insects can get to it, and there is the chance of cross-pollination. Varieties with longer stigmas include potato leaved tomatoes and currant tomatoes. To avoid crossing only grow one variety with exposed stigmas. The double flowers which are sometimes formed first by many beefsteak tomatoes also often have exposed stigmas, but later single flowers will be normal.
To collect the seed, allow your tomatoes to ripen fully. Then collect a few of each variety that you want to save seed from. Slice them in half across the middle of the fruit, and squeeze the seeds and juice into a jar. You then need to ferment this mixture for a few days - this removes the jelly-like coating on each seed, and also kills off many diseases that can be carried on the seeds. To do this put the jar of seeds and juice in a reasonably warm place for 3 days, stirring the mixture twice a day. It should develop a coating of mould, and start to smell really nasty!
After 3 days, add plenty of water to the jar, and stir well. The good seeds should sink to the bottom of the jar. Gently pour off the top layer of mould and any seeds that float. Then empty the good seeds into a sieve and wash them thoroughly under running water. Shake off as much water as possible, and tip the sieve out onto a china or glass plate (the seeds tend to stick to anything else). Dry somewhere warm but not too hot, and out of direct sunlight. Once they are completely dry, rub them off the plate and store in a cool dry place, where they should keep well for at least 4 years.
Thank you Snowman, I have just picked the last of them today. I'll try your seed collection method
I notice B&Q have revamped the listing of all their tomato seeds. They now add the word "Mix" to the end of all the variety names hence one now buys Gardeners Delight Mix, Is this a very sly way of covering themselves for whatever rubbish grows from the packet. Also, it has enabled them to remove the large number of adverse reviews about the tomatoes by selling a "New Variety" and not having the old one for sale anymore. This is a devious underhand practice to catch the unwary.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
You can use any light-coloured netting material, the mesh fine enough to keep insects out but let light and air in. I usually cut the foot sections from a pair of stockings. If you're keen, you can sew in a drawstring to create the bag. Place the bag over a truss before the flower opens. The truss will grow before the flower sets fruit so allow for that growth with the size of the bag. If you haven't sewn in a drawstring, tie the bag closed over the branch tightly, but not so tight that you damage the branch.
Once fruit has set, meaning the flower is no longer vulnerable to cross-pollination, remove the bag. Tie something - a piece of ribbon, whatever - to the truss to indicate it's the protected truss. The plant will grow and change shape before the fruit is harvested and it's easy to lose track of the fruit you bagged. I know, I've done it.
This applies to heirloom (pure) varieties. Seeds saved from a hybrid variety won't grow true to the parent.
http://www.realseeds.co.uk/seedsavinginfo.html
What @Italophile said in reply about 'Any variety of tomato can cross-pollinate with another courtesy of busy-body insect life' is not correct, at least not as such a generalisation.
In terms of Biology, there is a wide spectrum in terms of a plants likelihood to self-pollinate. Or alternatively, the chances of cross-pollination being possible, the norm, or even necessary.
Tomatoes are definitely at the self-pollinating end of the spectrum, and will rarely cross-pollinate. There are exceptions, certain varieties with a particular flower structure and protruding stigma, but these are not common.
I don't want anybody to be put off tomato seed saving and would encourage anybody to do so.