I have only taken deadwood out of my, new last spring, weeping Canary Bird standard Nollie but it is a once bloomer. I am assuming I prune after flowering but happy to be given advice on if this is correct and how much I should trim.
Defoliation etc done on Strawberry Hill. I may revisit this and pull some canes more horizontal but I got cold. It always amazes me how insignificant roses become in winter, that trellis and birdbath brush disappeared with the foliage, now the rose has. BTW trellis is now level and straight but washingline support isn't. On balance this looks better from the house. Maybe sometime I'll reconstruct a whole structure for both rose (roses?) and washing line. This was all a bit of a first lockdown experiment.
In spite of the cold now and back in Dec the roses are sprouting. I had expected this growth to be hit by the freezing temperatures currently but apparently not. I tried to plant today but the ground is still frozen hard.
Clockwise from back left- Soul, AbFab, Golden Beauty, Unknown white Floribunda, Faustinia and Chippendale. So maybe these should be harder pruned?
to be honest, I got scared looking at Marlorena's trim.. so close to ground may be that's what the plant needs to boost it up..
yes, Nollie.. I know its tender.. read about balling too.. plus I din't have the space for it.. Now, how I ended up on the said rose was by researching (by that I mean reading people's experience) on best scented Noisettes.. not Blush.N - it smelled like cucumbers to me.. probably I did not grow it long enough..
@Marlorena@Nollie do you defoliate the new growth as well? I mean the yet to fully open kind of buds..? I was planning to.. as I remember Marlorena saying each bud eye can produce two more if one is removed.. some of them have black tips anyways, probably from the recent frosts..
They will be fine for days if you put them into water, preferably covering roots and graft @m.davey12 . Or you can heel them in to some unfrozen ground for longer.
'Our family has a saying that having a gin and tonic before pruning your
roses means you'll have the courage to go back hard enough.' -that's from a nursery site.. now we know how Marlorena did it
Weighing in on grafts, for most roses it’s always better to bury them an inch or two if you can. Helps firmly anchor the rose, prevents wind rock and suckers from the rootstock and encourages the development of vigorous basal canes. For climbers, more basals means more new canes to train along your wires 😊
Also - it give the rose the opportunity to grow its own root system, independent of the rootstock, so if the graft should fail from rot, disease or damage you don’t lose the whole plant as you would if the graft were above the soil.
I also think it’s more aesthetically pleasing.
Its the opposite of what you do with many grafted plants like fruit trees. Where you keep the graft above soil because the last thing you want is it going own root and becoming a colossus - defeating the point of the dwarfing rootstock.
Sorry to be a pain, but I just realised something I should have done and wondered if it should be OK now. Re the grafts being best buried (say 1-2") below the soil line. I still have some give in the soil, after the watering, so I can heel them in more, add the extra topsoil.
Then (this is the thing that I haven't done yet) I can lay two sods of the cut turf round them. All of this will take the graft under the ground. Would this be enough?
Sorry, this question goes out to you all, not just Marlorena. Other than that I am just double digging the remaining part of the border - removing roots and stones - before digging in yet more compost (good that mum's old compost heap is over 10 years old so there is plenty of it) and then I can plant the 2 x Gaujard, and 1 x unknown yellow HT.
@cooldoc: 'Our family has a saying that having a gin and tonic before pruning your
roses means you'll have the courage to go back hard enough.' - that is a good saying and an even better tip. I might take that onboard very soon.
@tack potted roses look great as usual.. I had been wondering what that pole was, now I know..
@cooldoc lol.. one needs a good constitution with roses.. No I don't defoliate new growth unless it's clearly dead. I wouldn't worry about a few black tips. The central shoot is dominant so I like to leave that on unless it's been damaged beyond repair, then I might rub it off.. Not something I go around looking for too much if I'm honest..
@PeterAberdeen Hi Peter No need to worry about your Zephirine Drouhin rose.. the other 2 are perfectly fine as they are too... roses should be firmly planted, so if you have any doubts about that, it won't hurt to firm them in more.. extra topsoil is good if you've got it..
ZD is a very hardy rose, it isn't frost sensitive at all, it's been around a long time and no doubt put up with all sorts of abuse from gardeners around the world.. A simple mulch is all that's needed. At this stage I wouldn't be keen on the idea of the turf as it could prevent rain getting down to the roots, causing dryness, that's what I'd be thinking. This rose loves moisture. When mature it wouldn't be a problem..
The thing about ZD is that although marketed as a climbing rose, it really isn't, it's a large shrub that can be trained in various ways, and is suited for your purposes. It doesn't throw up basals from below soil level - at the graft union - like a true climbing rose does, it extends itself upwards and outwards from the framework, later it will send out long lateral growth from low down for you to train, but not what we call basals..
A thornless climbing rose is a contradiction in terms.. as without thorns it cannot climb, as it can't cling to anything without our help.. however, it retains its vigour and will soon be scrambling over your wall..
MAC on the other hand will throw up very long shoots.. be ready for that..
Oh I meant to add about ZD, it's very easy to strike from cuttings, should you need another plant.. any snippings can be used, pot up or put in soil somewhere..
I did a spot of pruning in my breaks today, lots of new growth sprouting so I think I will have to call it a day on anymore. I trimmed brother Cadfael and Rhapsody in blue down a bit more and took some off the hulthemias, they all had growth on but several crossing, or too high etc. Im always worrying I will mess something up!
My weeping standard Nozomi ive just tidied a bit (styles one) as ive not quite got the hang of it yet. Its once flowering, it gets moved to the main bit of the garden when it flowers, then happily stays down the side of the house in relative shade the rest of the year. Its got lovely rosehips too.
Posts
yes, Nollie.. I know its tender.. read about balling too.. plus I din't have the space for it.. Now, how I ended up on the said rose was by researching (by that I mean reading people's experience) on best scented Noisettes.. not Blush.N - it smelled like cucumbers to me.. probably I did not grow it long enough..
@Marlorena @Nollie do you defoliate the new growth as well? I mean the yet to fully open kind of buds..? I was planning to.. as I remember Marlorena saying each bud eye can produce two more if one is removed.. some of them have black tips anyways, probably from the recent frosts..
-that's from a nursery site.. now we know how Marlorena did it
I also think it’s more aesthetically pleasing.
Its the opposite of what you do with many grafted plants like fruit trees. Where you keep the graft above soil because the last thing you want is it going own root and becoming a colossus - defeating the point of the dwarfing rootstock.
@cooldoc: 'Our family has a saying that having a gin and tonic before pruning your roses means you'll have the courage to go back hard enough.' - that is a good saying and an even better tip. I might take that onboard very soon.
@cooldoc
lol.. one needs a good constitution with roses..
No I don't defoliate new growth unless it's clearly dead. I wouldn't worry about a few black tips. The central shoot is dominant so I like to leave that on unless it's been damaged beyond repair, then I might rub it off..
Not something I go around looking for too much if I'm honest..
Hi Peter
No need to worry about your Zephirine Drouhin rose.. the other 2 are perfectly fine as they are too... roses should be firmly planted, so if you have any doubts about that, it won't hurt to firm them in more.. extra topsoil is good if you've got it..
ZD is a very hardy rose, it isn't frost sensitive at all, it's been around a long time and no doubt put up with all sorts of abuse from gardeners around the world..
A simple mulch is all that's needed. At this stage I wouldn't be keen on the idea of the turf as it could prevent rain getting down to the roots, causing dryness, that's what I'd be thinking. This rose loves moisture. When mature it wouldn't be a problem..
The thing about ZD is that although marketed as a climbing rose, it really isn't, it's a large shrub that can be trained in various ways, and is suited for your purposes. It doesn't throw up basals from below soil level - at the graft union - like a true climbing rose does, it extends itself upwards and outwards from the framework, later it will send out long lateral growth from low down for you to train, but not what we call basals..
A thornless climbing rose is a contradiction in terms.. as without thorns it cannot climb, as it can't cling to anything without our help.. however, it retains its vigour and will soon be scrambling over your wall..
MAC on the other hand will throw up very long shoots.. be ready for that..
Oh I meant to add about ZD, it's very easy to strike from cuttings, should you need another plant.. any snippings can be used, pot up or put in soil somewhere..
My weeping standard Nozomi ive just tidied a bit (styles one) as ive not quite got the hang of it yet. Its once flowering, it gets moved to the main bit of the garden when it flowers, then happily stays down the side of the house in relative shade the rest of the year. Its got lovely rosehips too.