Keeping it simple is fine so treat it like a group 3 if you like but be aware that you'll get one, slightly later and slightly longer flush of flowers. he main thing is to feed it well in spring and then train in the new growth so it doesn' all flop about in an unruly fashion.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
I think that's not very fair. As Richard says, the situation is confusing. Pink has had a lot of different, contradictory advice. She just wants to do the best for the plant. The best manner of pruning for this particular clematis is not obvious.
As PM says, I would tend to go with what the breeder recommends.
One approach is to try one method this year - take close note of what happens; then take another method next year and find out what you like bests for your plant. Or prune one stem in one manner and another in a different manner and watch what happens.
Thank you @Fire ! Yes, I just want to prune it the best way for this plant.
I
really appreciate all the posters on this forum for taking the time to come on here and comment, I am learning so much.
Thank you all for sharing your experience
So it sounds like either I can do what the breeder recommends and prune down to 15cm, or I can try out some other methods. It's certainly a vigorous grower judging by last year.
As well as following what @Obelixx has said re treating like a Group 3 regardless of whether it's a 2 or 3, and treating it well in terms of soil and food, the difference is simply in the timing of flowering and not getting a 2nd flush if you cut back hard as in a Group 3 pruning. I can understand that you're possibly nervous and think you might be killing it by doing that, but it's highly unlikely if the plant is otherwise healthy Many Group 3s start flowering in May anyway - Niobe for example, one of my favourites, has that sort of timing, while many don't start until June/July, but will go on longer.
One thing I'd certainly do is find a better support. That's very small, whether it's a 2 or 3. If you can put trellis or similar on the fence, and train it on that, it'll give you a better display, and means less faffing with tying in
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I see @Fairygirl , that's really helpful and @Obelixx 's comments are very helpful too. I'll certainly treat it well with good soil, food and water.
As last year I got one flush of flowers, I'm quite interested in trying a different way this year and getting a second flush. Where possible I'm interested in trying to avoid having the flowers too concentrated at the top but that might not be do-able.
One thing I noticed last year was the flowers seemed to be a bit smaller, vs the photo I posted earlier of a previous year where they were larger. I prefer the larger ones.
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Keeping it simple is fine so treat it like a group 3 if you like but be aware that you'll get one, slightly later and slightly longer flush of flowers. he main thing is to feed it well in spring and then train in the new growth so it doesn' all flop about in an unruly fashion.
I can understand that you're possibly nervous and think you might be killing it by doing that, but it's highly unlikely if the plant is otherwise healthy
Many Group 3s start flowering in May anyway - Niobe for example, one of my favourites, has that sort of timing, while many don't start until June/July, but will go on longer.
One thing I'd certainly do is find a better support. That's very small, whether it's a 2 or 3. If you can put trellis or similar on the fence, and train it on that, it'll give you a better display, and means less faffing with tying in
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...