I laid a gravel path about 40 years ago. No problems.
First a layer of hardcore (aka clean muck). Well tamped. Then a layer of self-binding "hoggin". ca 50-100 mm. Raked level, well tamped. Then a very thin layer of clean 0.5cm sea shingle to prevent damp hoggin being picked up.
Check drainage.
How does yours differ from mine?
location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand. "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
Alot I'm afraid. They removed grass so it was just clay, put down a thin membrane with sand on top and then the shingle. Membrane now fraying and moving, sand coming to the surface through shingle so everyone, especially the dogs walk it into the house, worse when it rains so I finally figured that's why my floors and carpets are becoming badly stained. But thank you for the information I will look into getting it resolved.
Clay is easy for doing gravel on top of it @idedm.jm39131 . Just that good quality membrane and then the gravel. Exactly how I've done all my gravel paths on many gardens. Clay soil is the norm in this part of the country. It's murder to dig out holes for fence posts, or for making ponds etc, but great for laying gravel on, because it doesn't shift, especially as it doesn't dry out either. In very dry parts of the country, that may be different, and it would possibly need a layer of hardcore or similar, but once consolidated, it's an excellent base for a gravelled area. I could understand if they were going to lay paving on it. Paved areas here often get a thick layer of what's called red blaes put down, and then the slabs are put directly onto that - no need for mortar. It's just a very coarse, red, gritty sand. I wonder if that was the thinking? I still have a fair bit of it under my gravelled areas, because that's all that was in the garden when I moved in. Once I took the slabs away, the sand just got worked into the top of the clay by the weather, as it was then exposed to that by the membrane and gravel on top of it.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Posts
First a layer of hardcore (aka clean muck). Well tamped.
Then a layer of self-binding "hoggin". ca 50-100 mm. Raked level, well tamped.
Then a very thin layer of clean 0.5cm sea shingle to prevent damp hoggin being picked up.
Check drainage.
How does yours differ from mine?
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
In very dry parts of the country, that may be different, and it would possibly need a layer of hardcore or similar, but once consolidated, it's an excellent base for a gravelled area.
I could understand if they were going to lay paving on it. Paved areas here often get a thick layer of what's called red blaes put down, and then the slabs are put directly onto that - no need for mortar. It's just a very coarse, red, gritty sand. I wonder if that was the thinking? I still have a fair bit of it under my gravelled areas, because that's all that was in the garden when I moved in. Once I took the slabs away, the sand just got worked into the top of the clay by the weather, as it was then exposed to that by the membrane and gravel on top of it.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
1. carefully remove all gravel. Set aside and wash if necessary.
2. Mix ca 1/4 fine dry cement by volume into the sand.
3. Replace the gravel. Spray with water gently. Let it set. Cover if it threatens to rain.
Or, for stage 2.
Water on well-diluted PVA builders' adhesive (Unibond eg).
Both worth a try. No guarantees.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."