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Rose with only one stem?

I have a couple of roses (one being Black Baccara, other, can't recall name) that only see to send up one long stem which only produces one rose and then it is finished! Is this usual or is there something I can do to get more blooms ? The one that I don't know the name of has been in for several years and is approx 5ft high and very thorny. BB has only been planted for approx one year, these are both in the ground. tia 
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  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 24,043
    This isn't usual.

    When you bought BB did it only have one stem? Have you ever pruned the one stem? Pruning should stimulate a rose to produce more stems. Do you feed your roses? Did they dry out this dry summer or did you water them?
    Dordogne and Norfolk. Clay in Dordogne, sandy in Norfolk.
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    5ft and one flower.  Prune it back to about 3 buds.  Probably the same would go for BB.

    But roses are cheap.  Next time try to buy one with several stems.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    edited November 2022
    Yes, give them a hard pruning which should encourage more shoots from the ground.
    Most roses need plenty of sun and a fertile soil to thrive.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    Do you really mean the whole rose bush arrived with only one single main cane/stem? That’s not normal, that’s a crappy specimen!

    BB is a hybrid tea so will only produce one bloom per stem at the top, but once that bloom is finished if you deadhead it down to just above a full set of healthy leaves with a little nubble between the leaves and the stem (that’s a dormant bud) that stem will flower again.

    Did you plant the knobbly graft below ground? If so that’s a good way to induce new canes to shoot up from the base, but as others say, pruning HTs back hard every winter to 4-6” will encourage new growth and a bushier bush the following year 😊 
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • MeomyeMeomye Posts: 949
    Thank you @Busy-Lizzie, @bede, @Pete.8, @Nollie for your replies. I got my BB online so could not choose it myself. I believe it came with a few canes but they were thin however there was one thicker cane and this is the one that got quite tall and produced one flower and did nothing else. I will check my planting method, as I confess, I do get very confused by the different advice out there as to union buried/not buried etc. If I have done it wrong can it be rectified at this stage? They were watered and fed, but again not sure if I fed enough. When you say winter pruning, when would be the best time? I often do it around February? t i a. 
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    The union is best under the soil surface.
    I've noticed a few of mine are not due to settlement of the soil, so I give them a deep mulch and the unions are slowly getting buried.
    They don't really need much feed. I give mine a handful of blood, fish and bone when I winter prune them around Feb-early March.
    If they are repeat flowering varieties, I give them another handful in late June.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited November 2022
    Prune any time between now and March.  An early prune is a good idea to minmise wind-rock, which a 5 ft stem will probably have.

    Don't worry too much about how to prune.  "The perfect is the enemy of the good."  The last time I heard, Aberdeen Council, who have miles of bedded roses, go through them with a chain saw set ca 1 ft above the ground in Feb/March.  Visit to see the results.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    Agree with Pete, the graft union is best below the soil, that way you will hopefully get new basal growth from below ground i.e. new shoots from the chosen rose variety, not to be confused with suckers from the laxa root stock, which look very different. The advice to plant the graft above ground is extremely outdated now, by decades, although the RHS still cling to it. It also nestles the rose firmly in the ground and prevents damaging wind rock. No problem digging it up and replanting deeper anytime in Jan-Feb when you prune it down, or try the mulching method.

    How much you feed depends on your soil, Pete has rich, well amended clay soil which is high in nutrients and minerals, I seem to recall, but not all of us are so lucky! I feed twice yearly with DA or similar granulated rose food plus a potassium-rich liquid feed every couple of weeks during the growing season to encourage more blooms interspersed with seaweed feed when I can get it. Watering deeply, weekly is better than the occasional light sprinkle, about 10-15 litres at a time, twice a week in very hot, dry summers.

    It has to be said that BB is not the healthiest or most vigorous of roses, by all accounts.
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • MeomyeMeomye Posts: 949
    Thanks again for your advice, @Pete.8,@bede, and @Nollie.  
    Nollie, what can I say, I was looking for a rich dark red rose and was seduced by her beauty!  ;)
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    Years ago I was seduced by Souvenir du Docteur Jamain, a similar coloured climbing rose. Despite having some shade, It didn't do well and died after about 3 years.
    I've never had a rose just die before.
    I replaced it with felicite et perpetue which flourished.
    Being on enriched clay, roses usually thrive in most of my garden.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
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