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..the new ROSE season 2020...

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  • newbie77newbie77 Posts: 1,838
    anyone has any example of training climbing rose on obelisk. I try to bend the canes a bit then sometimes it looks like it is too stiff to bend then i just tie it. I dont really know what i am doing.
    South West London
  • @Nollie totally agree - I have scoured the internet to find a video on how to deal with a new climber - zilch. My Iceberg `climber` looks more like a shrub than my shrub Susan Williams-Ellis, and yet some people on here have huge long canes from their new climbers already. I just try to be patient and hope that it starts growing like a climber eventually.

    @newbie77 I am intending to train mine round an obelisk as well - as far as I can deduce, the key thing is to get the canes as near horizontal as possible, so wind them round in a spiral to induce lateral canes and loads of flowers! That's what I intend to do if I ever have canes longer than 10 inches! I suspect it is easiest when they are long. Maybe some of the experts here have some good advice?
  • edhelkaedhelka Posts: 2,351
    Every climber is different. And it also depends on its spot. Usually, they need to establish deep roots before throwing out long canes but some climbers climb from the 1st year. You don't need to do anything when they are shrub-like, there isn't much to train and the future climbing canes will replace the shrubby canes anyway.
    You also don't need to prune laterals. You can train them in the same way as the main canes and new laterals will grow from them. Some roses like layering growth like this.
    For obelisks, there are two options: Winding around or simply letting the rose grow through the obelisk and the obelisk acts as cage-like support. Winding is usually good for roses with pliable canes, the grow-through option for roses with thick stems or roses that branch a lot or when you simply feel that winding around won't work.
  • Mr. Vine EyeMr. Vine Eye Posts: 2,394
    edhelka said:

    You also don't need to prune laterals. You can train them in the same way as the main canes and new laterals will grow from them. Some roses like layering growth like this.

    What I’ve been doing with the Generous Gardener, gradual lengthening of the structural canes by selecting and tying in laterals to extend them. 

    Just like you do with an espalier apple tree. Will be summer pruning time for that soon.
    East Yorkshire
  • TackTack Posts: 1,367
    @edhelka Just scrolling back I saw your trellis with TGG or maybe it's a pergola in which case this is the wrong question. My Strawberry Hill is on a 7ft high but only 2ft wide trellis, I can weave canes in and out as they go up but not very horizontally. How will you make your TGG flower from ground up not just at the top? Is SH the same?

  • Nice list @Omori...that Sharifa Asma looks nice, not one I've noticed before.

    Thanks for that info @edhelka regarding using the obelisk as a support rather than winding...I have a plan to grow a modern climber as a shrub next year and was vaguely wondering how to go about supporting it.  I'll see how the rose grows and work it out from there what seems best...I'd like it to look informal I think.

    Lovely roses @Tack, I'll let others advise about training Blush Noisette, mine seems to support itself against the fence and I rarely climb in and tie it, sometimes when the rain makes it heavy and flop away.
    Wearside, England.
  • edhelkaedhelka Posts: 2,351
    @Tack It's a pergola. And I also plan to plant a clematis there eventually, so I don't have to worry about that. I love your door frame trellis. If you can't get blooms in the lower part, maybe you can just plant something with it or in front of it.
    Regarding training, if you know Shiuan in Japan, here is her winter video. I find it very educational because you can see how she does everything. All her roses are in pots (with the exception of that banksia and some other big climbers).

  • TackTack Posts: 1,367
    @edhelka I had seen and loved Shiuan's flowering video but this is amazing. Many of those roses have incredibly neatly spaced networks of stems, like spiderwebs. And the Obelisks are very wound round. That lady really likes spending time with her roses, such a labour of love.

    I was thinking of putting a clematis on that trellis, in fact I had, but I now know I did it while it was too young and am trying to bring it back to life in a pot. But my clematis tend to flower more at the top too. I wonder how DA gets flowers at the bottom?
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    I grow Warm Welcome straight up the middle of an obelisk, as that is a stiff-caned rose that does not lend itself to winding but it flowers from top to bottom anyway. When I cut it down to wind around, thinking I needed to train it properly, it just threw up more stiff canes so it was a waste of time and then had to grow again from scratch. New La Rose de Molinard is another that seems happier growing with no intervention and is too stiff to train.

    This year I tried winding flexible-caned, floppy Golden Celebration around an ob as that seemed to need it. It still only flowered at the top and the two laterals it eventually threw out (from the top) were 3ft long and splaying away from the obelisk, so that didn’t work either! It’s not a performer here for me, so is being replaced by Golden Beauty anyway.

    Novice obelisk trainer conclusion, forget the winding, too much faff and no guarantee of success - so I will just let each rose do what it wants and tie it in here and there only if it needs it.

    Against a fence, however, both Stormy Weather and Soul were easy to fan out and loosely tie in even in year 1. Soul isn’t even a climber, but seems to lend itself to that treatment. In my limited experience to date, fence or wall training seems far less fraught!
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
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