i would like to create something like these pictures(they are from internet) but they are all looking good because of hostas. I like that foliage contrast and some bright flowers look.
Hmm. i hadnt thought of grasses.. Complete novice with grass names and choice. I will lookup for the names you suggested. Something like fountain shape would go good with heuchera sarcococca etc.
convolvulus cneorum (all year leaf colour, winter flowers)
nandina domestica (fiery autumn/winter colour)
Iris 'Walter Butt' (scented flowers which can be from late autumn through to early spring, weather dependent)
hellebores (spring flowers)
ajuga 'burgundy glow' & alchemilla (self seeding/spreading so some caution required but a vibrant spring colour mix that fills gaps)
astrantia (spring and summer flowers)
roses (summer flowers and scent)
blue hardy geraniums, with dark orange and bright yellow geums (summer flowers)
crocosmia 'George Davison' (late summer into autumn colour)
asters 'Monch' and Oktoberlicht (autumn flowers)
There are some hardy chrysanthemums the name of which I've never known but mine has just come into flower this week.
variegated marjoram - (scented evergreen foliage, and bees love it)
whipcord hebes (small evergreens),
You may have gathered the above is roughly a list of the plants I have in a similar size area, west facing, heavy clay soil (moderately acidic), along with spring bulbs dotted about, an assortment of carex grasses of various colours, a few pots of winter pansies and viola that I dot about for winter colour and a sorbus tree.
I'm saving up for a dwarf philadelphus (summer scent)
Last edited: 03 November 2016 16:56:35
Gardening on the edge of Exmoor, in Devon
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.”
careful about some of the recommendstions above...convolvulous cneorum for instance needs totally different soil and other conditions to astrantias.....opposite in fact.
And yet I have them growing next to one another perfectly happily They may of course grow better in ideal conditions, but they do fine. I tend to plant things in the closest place I can get to what it says on the pot/website they would ideally like and then, if they fail to thrive, I move them until they are happy. I have all sorts of plants in the 'wrong' place, and for many of them have forgotten where they 'ought' to be .
I can only tell you what I have found to be true for me; I'm a gardener not a horticulturist
Last edited: 03 November 2016 18:01:19
Gardening on the edge of Exmoor, in Devon
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.”
Mm, not sure I'd claim it was worked out exactly. I have two convolvulus, both in sunny positions. All of my soil is heavy, so when I plant things that say 'free draining', I dig in plenty of grit and don't put them at the bottom of a slope. My astrantia is north of the convolvulus, and slightly under the lonicera, which situation presumably (as it seems happy) provides it with adequate shade.
I find I can grow most things that apparently don't like heavy clay with a bit of grit and some fiddling about with positions. Still struggling to keep lavender alive more than 3 years
I agree with Tetley about soil testing; I've found plants are much less adaptable to soil pH than they are to position or soil type.
Gardening on the edge of Exmoor, in Devon
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.”
Posts
i would like to create something like these pictures(they are from internet) but they are all looking good because of hostas. I like that foliage contrast and some bright flowers look.
How do i get something like?
Hmm. i hadnt thought of grasses.. Complete novice with grass names and choice. I will lookup for the names you suggested. Something like fountain shape would go good with heuchera sarcococca etc.
Last edited: 03 November 2016 14:24:43
lonicera winter beauty (winter scent),
convolvulus cneorum (all year leaf colour, winter flowers)
nandina domestica (fiery autumn/winter colour)
Iris 'Walter Butt' (scented flowers which can be from late autumn through to early spring, weather dependent)
hellebores (spring flowers)
ajuga 'burgundy glow' & alchemilla (self seeding/spreading so some caution required but a vibrant spring colour mix that fills gaps)
astrantia (spring and summer flowers)
roses (summer flowers and scent)
blue hardy geraniums, with dark orange and bright yellow geums (summer flowers)
crocosmia 'George Davison' (late summer into autumn colour)
asters 'Monch' and Oktoberlicht (autumn flowers)
There are some hardy chrysanthemums the name of which I've never known but mine has just come into flower this week.
variegated marjoram - (scented evergreen foliage, and bees love it)
whipcord hebes (small evergreens),
You may have gathered the above is roughly a list of the plants I have in a similar size area, west facing, heavy clay soil (moderately acidic), along with spring bulbs dotted about, an assortment of carex grasses of various colours, a few pots of winter pansies and viola that I dot about for winter colour and a sorbus tree.
I'm saving up for a dwarf philadelphus (summer scent)
Last edited: 03 November 2016 16:56:35
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.”
And yet I have them growing next to one another perfectly happily
They may of course grow better in ideal conditions, but they do fine. I tend to plant things in the closest place I can get to what it says on the pot/website they would ideally like and then, if they fail to thrive, I move them until they are happy. I have all sorts of plants in the 'wrong' place, and for many of them have forgotten where they 'ought' to be 
.
I can only tell you what I have found to be true for me; I'm a gardener not a horticulturist
Last edited: 03 November 2016 18:01:19
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.”
Thank you very much. A lot to google and add to wish list
Mm, not sure I'd claim it was worked out exactly. I have two convolvulus, both in sunny positions. All of my soil is heavy, so when I plant things that say 'free draining', I dig in plenty of grit and don't put them at the bottom of a slope. My astrantia is north of the convolvulus, and slightly under the lonicera, which situation presumably (as it seems happy) provides it with adequate shade.
I find I can grow most things that apparently don't like heavy clay with a bit of grit and some fiddling about with positions. Still struggling to keep lavender alive more than 3 years
I agree with Tetley about soil testing; I've found plants are much less adaptable to soil pH than they are to position or soil type.
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.”