One of the reasons why some clematis should be planted deep is because the deeper you plant, the more moisture will be available to the root system.
" Feet in the shade, etc. " is often spouted about clematis, that is also because more moisture should be available in shade than in the blazing sun.
If you do not plant the crown deep enough, then your plant will dry out and struggle, then you become another of the " I can't grow clematis, they get wilt " brigade.
Oh you are making me want to lift them. I put them in in june and September! I researched the prune code I needed so my small garden didn't look messy but nievely just followed the growers instructions for planting!
I've lifted and replanted Clematis after they've been in the ground for almost a year without harming them at all. I'm inclined to say lift them now and plant them deeper you'll not be sorry.
Not all clematis benefit from being planted deep. In my experience the Viticella Group, Viorna Group, some of the ' herbaceous ' should be planted deeper.
Viticellas definitely need the crown burying 4 to 6 inches below ground.
I do not plant Atragene Group, Tangutica Group and many of the species deep.
This is why I asked ' Red Dahlia ' which cultivars had been planted.
Also I am concerned when Red Dahlia said he/she had followed the growers instructions, were these plants purchased from a grower ?
One is called star of India and the label pictures show you to put the pot level about an inch below the soil which I did. The other Is a red but I can't find the label!
I suspect you have mass produced clems using a basic ticketing system to label them. My specialist supplier always tells me to plant 4 to 6 inches deeper than they were in the pot as it gets the roots closer to permanent moisture and encourages the plants to prodcue extra stems and thus extra flowers.
I don't plant early or winter flowering or evergreen clems at all but only because they they usually get killed off by heavy frosts. I stick to group 2s and 3s and treat them all as group 3. My supplier helpfully labels his plants with degrees of hardiness and I avoid anything that can't cope with -25C but have found some -20C group 2s (bought before I knew better) will come back after a hard winter if pruned as group 3s and given loads of food and patience.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
Well they are putting up buds so I think maybe should I chop back to the first healthy bud which is about a foot above the soil. I know I bought prune code 4
Posts
One of the reasons why some clematis should be planted deep is because the deeper you plant, the more moisture will be available to the root system.
" Feet in the shade, etc. " is often spouted about clematis, that is also because more moisture should be available in shade than in the blazing sun.
If you do not plant the crown deep enough, then your plant will dry out and struggle, then you become another of the " I can't grow clematis, they get wilt " brigade.
I've lifted and replanted Clematis after they've been in the ground for almost a year without harming them at all. I'm inclined to say lift them now and plant them deeper you'll not be sorry.
Not all clematis benefit from being planted deep. In my experience the Viticella Group, Viorna Group, some of the ' herbaceous ' should be planted deeper.
Viticellas definitely need the crown burying 4 to 6 inches below ground.
I do not plant Atragene Group, Tangutica Group and many of the species deep.
This is why I asked ' Red Dahlia ' which cultivars had been planted.
Also I am concerned when Red Dahlia said he/she had followed the growers instructions, were these plants purchased from a grower ?
If you are unsure which Group your clematis are in then Google ' Clematis On The Web ', then look on A - Z and find details of your plant.
This website is used by clematis enthusiasts worldwide and is a fantastic reference book for approx. 3500 varieties of clematis.
I suspect you have mass produced clems using a basic ticketing system to label them. My specialist supplier always tells me to plant 4 to 6 inches deeper than they were in the pot as it gets the roots closer to permanent moisture and encourages the plants to prodcue extra stems and thus extra flowers.
I don't plant early or winter flowering or evergreen clems at all but only because they they usually get killed off by heavy frosts. I stick to group 2s and 3s and treat them all as group 3. My supplier helpfully labels his plants with degrees of hardiness and I avoid anything that can't cope with -25C but have found some -20C group 2s (bought before I knew better) will come back after a hard winter if pruned as group 3s and given loads of food and patience.