I do agree with you Scroggin hand weeding even the tiniest weeds forking out docks and dandelions, goodness they have enormous roots,and hoeing everyday.If only I had the energy.We love it though when we look at the results
Hello , had an allotment October 2012 with 5 ft high weeds and no end of junk . With a bit of help , digging and pulling out by hand buy end of 2013 all under control , didn't want to use weed killer but used a bit and still do on paths
What I am trying to say is a combination in my option works best
I'm in the by hand group too, the reality is you will need to dig the plot over anyway so pull the weeds out whilst digging over. Use a spade it's easier than a fork.
I recently got a plot in February, the brambles were visible but the weeds didn't start growing until April, so got ahead start .
The plot was partially covered in black plastic which I was advised had acted as a giant propogator for weeds, the advise was good and I soon discover a labarith of roots so be mindful about laying plastic for too long a period, on a positive note roots will grow close to the surface and come out easy if the area covered has been roughly dug and heaps of muck put on top and unless you have something to plant covering stops the weeds from growing.
Know your weed roots. I mainly had brambles, bindweed, couch grass and horsetail.
If you dig out the crown of a bramble you've killed it, the roots are none productive and will rot in the ground. Bindweed has white roots, the deeper roots are tinged orange. Couch grass are white, tough and stringy. Horsetail are black and the hardest to see.
I try to be organic but painted Roundup on tree trunk stumps and bindweed under a fruit tree. Bindweed growing up the rabbit proof fence is also destined for a treatment of Roundup . Roundup takes at least six weeks to be effective, you need to wait for it to reach the roots. At this time using this method wouldn't be a solution if you want to start growing stuff this side of August.
Burning surface weeds/grass will also kill the roots in some cases. If you have a lot of stuff to burn build a bonfire over a patch of weeds.
Having strimmed down the the knee high grass/weeds, I have discovered that my newly aquired plot has the heaviest, stickiest clay soil known to man which will not come off a fork!! It slopes down towards a stream so the moisture collects there. Its impossible to separate the weeds at the moment, so I am roughly digging with a spade and extracting any roots that will separate. I am now covering with a thick layer of well rotted horse manure to let the worms do a bit of work and hopefully change the consistency of the soil to make it more workable.I have covered areas to try and dry out the soil a bit, but am not sure about covering for a long time, will it kill the weeds?
My hubby thinks I am mad taking on such a project,but as I point out to him, we have the same clay soil at home although not as wet ,and our garden looks amazing, so I will not be put off!!!
That seems to be a good approach Gina. Clay soil always benefits from a load of organic matter and will be very fertile once the worms have done their work. Bog garden at the bottom? Watercress? Rhubarb likes lots of water too.
Hello , the allotment next to mine covered freshly dug ground with huge amounts of horse manure , it held back the weeds for about 6 month , then they came through with renewed bigger , take care !
have you considered digging a ditch down to the stream / bog garden and filling with rubble ? to help drainage , could even be made into a path
phillipa - I'm on my second dig in parts of the growing area...it was quite hard the first time but I look upon it as a 'green gym'... the annual subscription is alot cheaper than a normal gym and I've carried on going...
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I do agree with you Scroggin hand weeding even the tiniest weeds forking out docks and dandelions, goodness they have enormous roots,and hoeing everyday.If only I had the energy.We love it though when we look at the results
Hello , had an allotment October 2012 with 5 ft high weeds and no end of junk . With a bit of help , digging and pulling out by hand buy end of 2013 all under control , didn't want to use weed killer but used a bit and still do on paths
What I am trying to say is a combination in my option works best
best of luck
I'm in the by hand group too, the reality is you will need to dig the plot over anyway so pull the weeds out whilst digging over. Use a spade it's easier than a fork.
I recently got a plot in February, the brambles were visible but the weeds didn't start growing until April, so got ahead start
.
The plot was partially covered in black plastic which I was advised had acted as a giant propogator for weeds, the advise was good and I soon discover a labarith of roots so be mindful about laying plastic for too long a period, on a positive note roots will grow close to the surface and come out easy if the area covered has been roughly dug and heaps of muck put on top and unless you have something to plant covering stops the weeds from growing.
Know your weed roots. I mainly had brambles, bindweed, couch grass and horsetail.
If you dig out the crown of a bramble you've killed it, the roots are none productive and will rot in the ground. Bindweed has white roots, the deeper roots are tinged orange. Couch grass are white, tough and stringy. Horsetail are black and the hardest to see.
I try to be organic but painted Roundup on tree trunk stumps and bindweed under a fruit tree. Bindweed growing up the rabbit proof fence is also destined for a treatment of Roundup
. Roundup takes at least six weeks to be effective, you need to wait for it to reach the roots. At this time using this method wouldn't be a solution if you want to start growing stuff this side of August.
Burning surface weeds/grass will also kill the roots in some cases. If you have a lot of stuff to burn build a bonfire over a patch of weeds.
Having strimmed down the the knee high grass/weeds, I have discovered that my newly aquired plot has the heaviest, stickiest clay soil known to man which will not come off a fork!! It slopes down towards a stream so the moisture collects there. Its impossible to separate the weeds at the moment, so I am roughly digging with a spade and extracting any roots that will separate. I am now covering with a thick layer of well rotted horse manure to let the worms do a bit of work and hopefully change the consistency of the soil to make it more workable.I have covered areas to try and dry out the soil a bit, but am not sure about covering for a long time, will it kill the weeds?
My hubby thinks I am mad taking on such a project,but as I point out to him, we have the same clay soil at home although not as wet ,and our garden looks amazing, so I will not be put off!!!
That seems to be a good approach Gina. Clay soil always benefits from a load of organic matter and will be very fertile once the worms have done their work. Bog garden at the bottom? Watercress? Rhubarb likes lots of water too.
Hello , the allotment next to mine covered freshly dug ground with huge amounts of horse manure , it held back the weeds for about 6 month , then they came through with renewed bigger , take care !
have you considered digging a ditch down to the stream / bog garden and filling with rubble ? to help drainage , could even be made into a path
best of luck
Good idea Steve
Hi GWRS, I will dig it over again in a few weeks, I am hoping the clay consistency will be less cloying and easier to weed.Fingers crossed !!
Sounds like you've made a good start. The second time you dig the area it should be alot easier than the first time.
phillipa - I'm on my second dig in parts of the growing area...it was quite hard the first time but I look upon it as a 'green gym'... the annual subscription is alot cheaper than a normal gym and I've carried on going...
I speak with spade in my hand...