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Orchids not flowering - what am I missing!

I have two Orchids, but neither of them flower despite healthy foliage growth. I give them a swim when the roots start to go a bit white, in rain water that is not too cold. The house is always 20-22 degrees (Air Source Heat Pump) and humidity is 50-60, so lower than ideal. I spray them with Orchid mist occasionally. They're on the windowsill for the darkest months, but they spend the rest of the year out of direct sun. 
I've done so much reading and video watching, and they say orchids are easy. So what am I missing!

Orchid 1 - Pink pot, small leaves, from last year. Flowers lasted a little while but all fell off leaving stems. 


Orchid 2 - White pot, big leaves, a gift from a few years ago. Lost flowers and stems fairly quickly after coming home, I assumed because the house was very cold and I didn't know how to take care of it. Lots of new leaves now. 


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Posts

  • KT53KT53 Posts: 9,016
    Can you post a couple of photo's.  There are different types of orchids.
  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    What kind of orchids, please?
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited 2 February
    Overwatering is the usual cause of orchid problems.

    My phalaenopses flower continuously with only a 2m break. My cymbidium has only reflowered once, and the not worth the wait.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • philippasmith2philippasmith2 Posts: 3,742
    They look like Phalaenopsis ( the type usually sold in SM's and such ).  I don't grow those but I think @Nanny Beach has them. Hopefully she will see this and be able to offer some advice
    Cymbidiums benefit from a cold spell after flowering and are happy when quite congested.  Mine flower every year and the flowers last a good length of time too.  Similar regime with Dendrobium ( sprays of scented flowers any time from now til late Spring ).  Both large plants but worth growing if you have the room  :)
  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    Phalanopsis need a 10C temperature differential (or so) to stimulate reblooming. This might be achieved by moving the plant from a bathroom/kitchen (warm and high humidity around 20C) to a cool, frost free, light place that offers low night temps (such as a porch).


  • KT53KT53 Posts: 9,016
    All we ever did with our Phalaenopsis was cut the old flower stems back to one or two nodes from the base, continue watering as normal, and wait.  Time to reflower could be anything from a few months to a year or more.
  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    I have had good success with setting up temp differentials. In the areas they are native to, there is a large day to night drop, apparently.
  • Ah, don't know where the photos went. Hopefully they'll upload now. They are the usual moth orchids from SM and GC. 
  • Fire said:
    Phalanopsis need a 10C temperature differential (or so) to stimulate reblooming. This might be achieved by moving the plant from a bathroom/kitchen (warm and high humidity around 20C) to a cool, frost free, light place that offers low night temps (such as a porch).


    This must be the issue, There is a small room with no heater. So I should put them there each night for the winter? 
  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    edited 2 February
    If it has good light, it sounds fine.

    I'd suggest not putting the orchid in an outer pot, so that you can always check it's not sitting in water. Or, at least, don't water it in that pot. Dunk it for ten mins, let it fully drain.
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