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Creating a plant divide

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  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    If you like and want roses, it would be better to put in a physical screen of trellis or similar [even obelisks of some kind] and have climbers. Other planting at the base will help, as @Busy-Lizzie suggests, of geraniums, bulbs etc, to prolong the interest. A proper border with the turf removed is also advisable, although it should really have been done first, as it's then easier to prep the space for plants. The grass will just cause further problems with maintenance, as well as being competition. 
    I don't think the cypresses look right [they don't look like yew to me, but the photo isn't cleaar enough]  especially if you want a classy, but cottagey look. They're more suited to formal spaces, so, for example, you would use something like box hedging between them.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    edited 24 January
    I would describe @Joyce Goldenlily ideas as modern cottage if such a thing exists. I also thought they were Cypruss which can be usesd in contemporary designs too. I assume you garden in the south where plants like Verbena bon will thrive.
    It is also about scale it looks like a small area?
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    edited 24 January
    I would probably want to go for a simple planting, say a nice hedge of lavender or compact 'mound forming' roses. Everything mounded looking and fairly low (2-3ft). You want a nice contrast with the upright form of the cypresses and avoid feeling hemmed in. It's a small space so I would stick with one thing. This will create more impact than lots of different things. 

    As you're probably aware, the cypresses will outgrow this scheme eventually, so in the back of my mind I would be thinking about eventual long-term positions for them.
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
  • Yes I should probably avoid labels, I just like what I like 😄
    I’ll look into those suggestions, thank you!
  • @Fairygirl agree. The grass will come up and I’ll create a proper border. The trees had sat in their pots for so long I just needed to get them planted. They were poor quality when they arrived and were going back but the company concerned were uncommunicative so I needed to do something quick. Hoping to get back onto this project in the next few weeks 😊
  • @GardenerSuze yes this is one corner of the garden. We wanted to create more of a room whilst adding a bit of height interest so thought we’d experiment. I’m not a fan of formal but like a variety of shapes. I’m in The Midlands but this is a nice sheltered, sunny spot. 
  • @Loxley exactly the look I’m going for! I want something low and mounded and added the trees for a bit of height interest. I’m not sure I like them really but need to finish the area off before I decide. It doesn’t help that they were really poor quality when they arrived. Much of the interest is around the sides of the garden so I’m trying to bring something out further to create a zone, add a bit of winter interest and a bit of height. I love flowers though so thought I’d create a low hedge to soften the look and I only intend on using white to keep it simple. 
  • White lavenders are not fully hardy in the UK, there are several varieties of the purple/ lavender coloured ones which grow in differing heights. Do not choose French lavenders either as I do not think they are fully hardy in your area so would need replacing each year.
    You could try using annual flowers for a year or two, a mixture of white Cosmos, nigella, gaura, foxgloves, pale lemon sunflowers etc. There are lots to choose from. That would give you a mixed border of varying height and shades of white, lemon or very pale blue or grey.
    Just a thought. 
  • @Joyce Goldenlily thanks for your help. I’m so glad you suggested this because this is the conclusion I arrived at late last night! I thought rather than committing to something permanent I could try experimenting with annuals for the differing heights to get that soft billowing effect I’m looking for. I love the idea of foxgloves and I love cosmos so I’ll look at the other flowers you suggest to. I’m sowing seeds for the first time so this gives me another bed to plant out! I’ve started the Orlaya already which might work here as well. Thank you. 
  • @Joyce Goldenlily thanks for your help. I’m so glad you suggested this because this is the conclusion I arrived at late last night! I thought rather than committing to something permanent I could try experimenting with annuals for the differing heights to get that soft billowing effect I’m looking for. I love the idea of foxgloves and I love cosmos so I’ll look at the other flowers you suggest to. I’m sowing seeds for the first time so this gives me another bed to plant out! I’ve started the Orlaya already which might work here as well. Thank you. 
    Do not rush into sowing annual seeds too early. There is plenty of time, the daylight hours are still very short and there is time for some severe cold weather as well unless you have a heated greenhouse with Grow lights. Most annuals germinate quite quickly then get very spindly and weak before keeling over and dying if sown very early. You do not gain anything from sowing early, better to wait until Spring, the longer daylight hours and warmer temperatures. It might be a good idea to buy "plug" foxglove plants, when they are available, this year as they are biennial so seed sown this year will not flower until next year. You will need to have a nursery bed where they can grow for 12 months.
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