Thanks, sounds like Gripple is the way to go then. In terms of positioning the wires for jasmine (star), any reason I need to go with diamond pattern versus horizontal? Presume I don't need to use canes? Thanks again!
Thanks, sounds like Gripple is the way to go then. In terms of positioning the wires for jasmine (star), any reason I need to go with diamond pattern versus horizontal? Presume I don't need to use canes? Thanks again!
Just go with horizontal wires. When I had SJ the wires started at about 18"/2ft above ground then spaced every 18" or so up to about 5ft About 4 runs of wire should be enough for a standard fence height.
When you tie it in, make sure the loop around the stem has plenty of space for the stem to expand. The early stems that form the main structure get quite thick over a few years and by that stage only need to be tied loosely to the trellis as they're almost self-supporting.
I use cheap twine that rots after a couple of years so it won't dig in to the stems. It's fun to watch the blue tits in the spring pulling it apart strand by strand for their nests.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Hello again! Well I have got my Gripple wires up and the 2 star jasmines are now in the ground. I tied the stems to the wires in a fan shape, with the twine relatively loose. Unfortunately I've lost part of one stem to the wind already.
Wondering if (1) a fan shape is appropriate, as I'm reading that horizontal can be a good idea (training new shoots vertically) for improved flowering. In my case I suppose I really want the flowers but at the same time covering the awful wall is more of a priority. (2) should I be tying the stems more tightly? Not sure which will stabilise against the wind best.
Fan shape will be fine. Keeping stems near horizontal is more important with roses and the like.
It should grow a bit before flowering in early summer, then it will throw out long new shoots - you can train these to fill in any gaps and continue to form the framework - they're really thin and bendy.
I never had a problem with loose stems on mine being damaged. Once settled they really grow quite fast. After a few years I used to use shears on mine to cut back all the new stems that appeared in summer.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Never thanked you for this last post, Pete! Happy to report that jasmines got through big wind storm here at the weekend without any further damage :-) Honeysuckles now in by the fences on either side as well. Cannot wait for them all to grow!
Thank you to you and everyone else for the invaluable advice received here.
Posts
In terms of positioning the wires for jasmine (star), any reason I need to go with diamond pattern versus horizontal? Presume I don't need to use canes?
Thanks again!
They are always useful for many peoiple.
When I had SJ the wires started at about 18"/2ft above ground then spaced every 18" or so up to about 5ft
About 4 runs of wire should be enough for a standard fence height.
When you tie it in, make sure the loop around the stem has plenty of space for the stem to expand.
The early stems that form the main structure get quite thick over a few years and by that stage only need to be tied loosely to the trellis as they're almost self-supporting.
I use cheap twine that rots after a couple of years so it won't dig in to the stems.
It's fun to watch the blue tits in the spring pulling it apart strand by strand for their nests.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Wondering if (1) a fan shape is appropriate, as I'm reading that horizontal can be a good idea (training new shoots vertically) for improved flowering. In my case I suppose I really want the flowers but at the same time covering the awful wall is more of a priority.
(2) should I be tying the stems more tightly? Not sure which will stabilise against the wind best.
Thanks and thanks again :-)
Keeping stems near horizontal is more important with roses and the like.
It should grow a bit before flowering in early summer, then it will throw out long new shoots - you can train these to fill in any gaps and continue to form the framework - they're really thin and bendy.
I never had a problem with loose stems on mine being damaged.
Once settled they really grow quite fast.
After a few years I used to use shears on mine to cut back all the new stems that appeared in summer.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Thank you to you and everyone else for the invaluable advice received here.
👍
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.