Now my worry is whether there are any local apple trees as i don't really want two apple trees in my garden as i want a bit of variety. I think there is an allotment less than a mile away and i assume someone there is growing some apples. I hope the polinators will be able to deliver the pollen or else i will have no apples
I guess i could post on the local forum on facebook or nextdoor to check or is this a bit too much overkill before buying ??
Sounds like a good choice and a good variety to store overwinter. It is also a self-fertile variety so doesn't need a pollination partner to produce fruit. But if there are other apple trees around, you'll get a better harvest.
For your pot, use a mix of John Innes No 2 or 3 - about 50-60% Add at least 20-30% horticural grit - very important as John Innes doesn't drain well if used by itself. And about 20% rotted farmyard manure - the stuff in bags at garden centres In Spring scatter some Vitax Q4 around the base
Get as big a pot for it as you can manage. It's important also to use a stake and a proper tree-tie which should be attached to the trunk about 18" above soil level. This is also very important as it will prevent the new roots that grow being snapped when the tree rocks in the winds.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Sounds like a good choice and a good variety to store overwinter. It is also a self-fertile variety so doesn't need a pollination partner to produce fruit. But if there are other apple trees around, you'll get a better harvest.
For your pot, use a mix of John Innes No 2 or 3 - about 50-60% Add at least 20-30% horticural grit - very important as John Innes doesn't drain well if used by itself. And about 20% rotted farmyard manure - the stuff in bags at garden centres In Spring scatter some Vitax Q4 around the base
Get as big a pot for it as you can manage. It's important also to use a stake and a proper tree-tie which should be attached to the trunk about 18" above soil level. This is also very important as it will prevent the new roots that grow being snapped when the tree rocks in the winds.
sorry but can i ask do you put the grit at the bottom of the point or should i mix it in with the compost ?
Yes as Dove mentions, mix it in with the compost. The other thing that is very important is to use pot feet or something similar to raise your pot off the ground a little. This will allow the pot to drain over winter when it becomes soaked with rain. If you don't raise the pot, the roots of your new tree may rot. I don't use proper pot feet, I just use off-cuts or 3-4 bits of wood under the pot to lift it off the ground about1/2"
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Yes as Dove mentions, mix it in with the compost. The other thing that is very important is to use pot feet or something similar to raise your pot off the ground a little. This will allow the pot to drain over winter when it becomes soaked with rain. If you don't raise the pot, the roots of your new tree may rot. I don't use proper pot feet, I just use off-cuts or 3-4 bits of wood under the pot to lift it off the ground about1/2"
Thanks for this but is this not a bit conflicting as i have been reading articles which say that potted plants dry out easily but then im reading that they need to have grit added so that they don't retain too much moisture in the pot. Is this not a bit conflicting ?
Plants in pots long term need a soil based medium to thrive. However, soil can also hold water more [which is the main advantage in summer conditions] so it's important that there's good drainage as well to prevent the opposite happening - ie waterlogging. Both things are detrimental to plants - especially shrubs and trees, as they also need oxygen around the root system, and soggy soil prevents that too. That's also the reason for @Pete.8's advice re pot feet.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
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It is also a self-fertile variety so doesn't need a pollination partner to produce fruit. But if there are other apple trees around, you'll get a better harvest.
For your pot, use a mix of John Innes No 2 or 3 - about 50-60%
Add at least 20-30% horticural grit - very important as John Innes doesn't drain well if used by itself.
And about 20% rotted farmyard manure - the stuff in bags at garden centres
In Spring scatter some Vitax Q4 around the base
Get as big a pot for it as you can manage.
It's important also to use a stake and a proper tree-tie which should be attached to the trunk about 18" above soil level. This is also very important as it will prevent the new roots that grow being snapped when the tree rocks in the winds.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Too late i already bought it
sorry but can i ask do you put the grit at the bottom of the point or should i mix it in with the compost ?
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
The other thing that is very important is to use pot feet or something similar to raise your pot off the ground a little. This will allow the pot to drain over winter when it becomes soaked with rain.
If you don't raise the pot, the roots of your new tree may rot.
I don't use proper pot feet, I just use off-cuts or 3-4 bits of wood under the pot to lift it off the ground about1/2"
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Thanks for this but is this not a bit conflicting as i have been reading articles which say that potted plants dry out easily but then im reading that they need to have grit added so that they don't retain too much moisture in the pot. Is this not a bit conflicting ?
Both things are detrimental to plants - especially shrubs and trees, as they also need oxygen around the root system, and soggy soil prevents that too.
That's also the reason for @Pete.8's advice re pot feet.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...