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Amelanchier transplant shock? Any hope?

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  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    Most of the trees in my garden are close to fences and they seem thrive but I’ve raised the canopy on most to allow more light and rain to reach them.
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • msqingxiaomsqingxiao Posts: 482
    I think growing a tree against a fence .. even one 6 foot tall … is different to growing one against the wall of a building. Branches  can spread out over the top of a fence … but not over the wall of a building. 
    😊 
    That is a garden wall next to a public alley way  :)
  • msqingxiaomsqingxiao Posts: 482
    Topbird said:

    Second - have you amended the soil in any way? I have, before now, dug in a lot of well rotted organic material which was actually still a bit too 'strong' for some young plant roots. I have also used large quantities of spent mushroom compost (tends to be a bit alkaline) in a bed where I wanted to grow raspberries which (like amelanchier) prefer a neutral to slightly acid soil. Duh!🙄
    Neither of those mistakes actually killed any of the plants but they did stunt their growth for the first season. 


    Checked with my partner, he did indeed mix some compost into the soil before he planted the amelanchier there, so this could be a reason. The previous big planter it was in is filled with just garden soil, and my other small shrubs are doing fine in it.
  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 24,043
    I mixed in compost when I planted my amalanchier and haven't had a problem.
    Dordogne and Norfolk. Clay in Dordogne, sandy in Norfolk.
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    I still think it’s too dry where it is. The foundations of a wall act as a sponge and it’s in a rain shadow  … investigate the soil in the area  9” or so below the surface where the roots should be heading, and see if it’s nicely moist. 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • thevictorianthevictorian Posts: 1,279
    The top leaves do look like they have dried out and it could be the ground is dry or it might be the new growth has been desiccated by wind. I agree that walls suck up moisture so it's best to plant further away than if you had a fence.
    If you have a better spot then moving it before it notices is probably for the best. I'd mulch it after watering it in and then just keep it watered until it's established.

    Our shed was only a couple of degrees warmer than our garden this winter and it froze inside,  quite a few times, so I don't think that will have made much difference to it.

    Amelanchier look better planted with space to grow in all directions. If they are to near a object then they can grow out mostly one way and not look as good. It's ok if you grow them as a hedge but with a single specimen they won't look so good if you have to keep prunning them.
  • floraliesfloralies Posts: 2,718
    I have two Amelanchier Canadensis, both were planted about four years ago in an open position in improved clay soil. They were bare root and planted in winter, they are growing well but still need watering in these hot summers! They do need room all around them.
  • TopbirdTopbird Posts: 8,355
    edited May 2023

    Checked with my partner, he did indeed mix some compost into the soil before he planted the amelanchier there, so this could be a reason. The previous big planter it was in is filled with just garden soil, and my other small shrubs are doing fine in it.
    If your partner just mixed in a bit of compost that won't be the cause of the problem unless it was something like farmyard or horse manure which wasn't well rotted.

    In my case it was a truck load of supposedly spent mushroom compost dug into a 6m x 6m heavy clay border. The finished mix was definitely too 'strong' for some of the shrubs and perennials I planted that year. They romped away the next season though and, after a few years adding lots of additional garden compost, the border now has good friable soil.

    I think your problem is a combination of cold / wind damage and lack of moisture and I'd take the tree out now.

    If you don't have a final planting place ready, repot it in a very large pot with a 50/50 mix of John Innes No3 and multi-purpose compost. You can keep it in that for at least a year while you work out where the plant is to go. It will then be a 'pot grown' shrub or tree which (in theory) can go in the ground at anytime - but early autumn would be best.

    If you leave it where it is now it might die because it's too dry or (if it does become well established) it could prove difficult to move without damaging it.
    Heaven is ... sitting in the garden with a G&T and a cat while watching the sun go down
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    I still disagree because it totally depends on the conditions of the soil, where the prevailing wet weather comes from, and how much of that there is, but then again - I don't have to worry about watering in trees or shrubs very much. 
    I don't what the OP's climate is like though.  If you're worried @msqingxiao , then move it somewhere else  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • msqingxiaomsqingxiao Posts: 482
    Fairygirl said:
    I still disagree because it totally depends on the conditions of the soil, where the prevailing wet weather comes from, and how much of that there is, but then again - I don't have to worry about watering in trees or shrubs very much. 
    I don't what the OP's climate is like though.  If you're worried @msqingxiao , then move it somewhere else  :)
    Thanks. We are in north London, so the climate is not too harsh. And it's a slightly sloped garden so drainage should not be a problem. We planted a climbing rose in the same border around the same time, and didn't water it that much and it's been growing fine so far. 
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