I have found grow lights work well for me for getting seedlings away, the heat is already available in my house so I don't have to worry about that bit. Still I have to time it so plants aren't getting too out of hand before I can get them outside.
That's exactly the problem @Astro - it's the bit after germination and pricking out etc, that's important, so it's all in the timing I'm a bit the same @KT53. I like growing some tomatoes, and my salad crops/basil, and my sweet peas every year, but other than that, I just try a few different bits and pieces when I feel like it, and when I start a new garden, I use the nursery about 45 mins drive away for many plants or some of the good online stockists for the bulk of my garden plants. I then take cuttings and do divisions more than anything else.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
McRazz, cold and damp!! I'm in a village near Eastbourne, we've had a couple of frosts,a few days of rain, cold wind sometimes. My daughter lives in Eastbourne town centre,and was In t-shirts last week. bought a heated propogater, I didn't like it. I found it difficult to keep seedlings moist. I normally start tomatoes, peppers in a north facing kitchen window sill in January. I don't buy any fancy expensive seeds, wherever I'm shopping, Aldi,Lidl,Wilko. I like John Innes seed compost, although I have used multi purpose in the past. I actually didn't want to sow many seeds this year,as last year was a nightmare with the late frost. I had health problems January,so hubby sowed them. I use quarter trays for veg,half trays for flowers,he used full trays for everything,so my conservatory, dining table, every window sill is covered in seedlings.I do find perennial plants are more difficult to germinate. I can see it's disheartening,and. frustrating. Sweet peas are usually a good bet, but I have used new seed,3 to a pot, some pots don't have a single plant.
I can highly recommend trying the 'Winter Sowing Method', where you sow outside in plastic containers. The seeds germinate when the conditions are right, there's no pricking out, no hardening off needed, you can plant directly from their containers to their permanent home.
This is this year's Salvia viridis (sown 18/2)
And annual black eyed Susans (sown 7/2)
And this gives a bit of an idea of my general set up.
The problem is @YessicaHaircut - it still depends on where you live. Those [in your first 2 photos] would just rot here if sown in February and left out through the rest of winter, or eaten by slugs the moment they showed any signs of life
Even decent salvia cuttings would struggle under cover without additional heat in most winters. The only salvia that's reliable as a full sized plant is S. caradonna.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Yes, it's going to be very variable according to where you live, but people do Winter Sow all over the US in a wide range of conditions and USDA zones, so it can be done with a wide range of conditions. I tend to keep a lot of my containers on shelves to make them slightly less accessible to molluscs, but some stuff does still get eaten. I tend to sow most annuals from March onwards. These were sown earlier just because I have a lot of sowing to get done and limited time, so can't leave them all till later. I'll still be sowing for a few weeks yet. I sowed another container of Salvia viridis on the 22nd March and they are almost at the same stage as the March sown ones. It's trial and error, but it's fun, and cheap, and I'd encourage people to give it a go.
Hi @YessicaHaircut , do the holes in your containers let enough rain through or do you still have to water the seedlings regularly? I assume you place the shelves in a sunny spot? Thanks.
I sow sunflowers mid March in pots in the greenhouse. Never failed.
Tried 2 years Rudbeckia and failed. I pot two pots at a GC and they grew so much that I had to take one part out. If you see Rudbeckia in the neighbourhood just ask if you can get a few in March @M33R4
A friend tried winter sowing this year and she did well despite the -20 to -40F arctic blasts and heavy snowfalls we had over the winter. I'm not sure exactly how hers were set up, just that she has a ton of seedlings already. She's hooked!
New England, USA
Metacomet soil with hints of Woodbridge and Pillsbury
Could not manage without the heated may at present. Table top size in the cool conservatory and everything has come up so far. Added a thermostat this year which helps avoid cooking then and drying then out too much. Keeping suitably moist is a challenge but mostly got the hang of it now with clear lids.
Maybe some lights next year then I can get going just a little earlier and minimise moving the trays about so much..
Posts
I'm a bit the same @KT53. I like growing some tomatoes, and my salad crops/basil, and my sweet peas every year, but other than that, I just try a few different bits and pieces when I feel like it, and when I start a new garden, I use the nursery about 45 mins drive away for many plants or some of the good online stockists for the bulk of my garden plants. I then take cuttings and do divisions more than anything else.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
And annual black eyed Susans (sown 7/2)
And this gives a bit of an idea of my general set up.
Those [in your first 2 photos] would just rot here if sown in February and left out through the rest of winter, or eaten by slugs the moment they showed any signs of life
Even decent salvia cuttings would struggle under cover without additional heat in most winters. The only salvia that's reliable as a full sized plant is S. caradonna.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Thanks.
I ♥ my garden.
Maybe some lights next year then I can get going just a little earlier and minimise moving the trays about so much..