One of the main reasons for leaving a permanent space around the trunk of an ornamental tree is what @Liriodendron describes. If you don't have a strimmer, it's easier, but you'll need to use shears or similar when you cut the grass. Mowers can do damage as well. You'll probably be ok with your circle. Just keep the grass from creeping in. It's very easy to underestimate how much competition grass is to a newly establishing tree, especially if you're planting it soon, as it will need plenty of help with watering over the next 6 months, unless you're in a consistently wet area.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
The other thing besides competition to be aware of if you let the grass grow up to the tree is that it's very easy to accidentally damage the bark when you're cutting the grass, particularly if you use a strimmer for the edges or try to get close with the mower. Best to trim carefully by hand if you decide to go down the grass-right-up-to-the-tree route.
edit: Oops, I hadn't seen @Fairygirl 's post (it was over on page 2).
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
One of the main reasons for leaving a permanent space around the trunk of an ornamental tree is what @Liriodendron describes. If you don't have a strimmer, it's easier, but you'll need to use shears or similar when you cut the grass. Mowers can do damage as well. You'll probably be ok with your circle. Just keep the grass from creeping in. It's very easy to underestimate how much competition grass is to a newly establishing tree, especially if you're planting it soon, as it will need plenty of help with watering over the next 6 months, unless you're in a consistently wet area.
Thankyou fairy girl and thanks for the tip about cutting the grass. Will go careful and avoid the strimmer on that part.
The RHS now recommends square holes for planting shrubs and trees as the shape encourages roots to go out into the soil rtaher than go round and round as tho still in a pot.
I cut my squares between 75 and 100cm wide depending on the size of the tree or shrub I'm planting, add some well-roted compost and/or manure to the planting hole and re-fill soil and then, after watering, I mulch which chipped bark from our own prunings. It's essential to water the subject before and after planting and all thru any dry spells in its first spring and summer and to make sure neither the soil nor the mulch creep up the trunk. It's important to let it breathe.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
The RHS now recommends square holes for planting shrubs and trees as the shape encourages roots to go out into the soil rtaher than go round and round as tho still in a pot.
I cut my squares between 75 and 100cm wide depending on the size of the tree or shrub I'm planting, add some well-roted compost and/or manure to the planting hole and re-fill soil and then, after watering, I mulch which chipped bark from our own prunings. It's essential to water the subject before and after planting and all thru any dry spells in its first spring and summer and to make sure neither the soil nor the mulch creep up the trunk. It's important to let it breathe.
Thank you thats really helpful. Presume I can mulch with compost?
I have a 1m circle around the apple I planted last year, lined with a metal ring and backfilled with shredded bark. It not only reduces the competition from weeds, it looks neat too. Grass around the base of mature trees, like in old orchards, looks romantic but in a lawn, you have to do the best you can for the tree.
Ir you prefer the look of a circular space around the tree over a square, you can do that and still dig a square planting hole in the centre. Or plant first, then strip off the rest of the turf in the area you want to clear so that you can make sure it's exactly centred on the tree (if you're like me and would be forever annoyed if it was a bit off-centre).
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
It's actually easier to mow round a square than a circular planting hole altho it's fairly academic here as we don't have lawn, just grass that used to be meadow and is full of "wildflowers". The main thing is to provide a decent space around your new tree or shrub which is free of competition from year round plants like grass.
As time goes by and the trees establish their root structures the plan is to join up their planting holes with fully planted permanent beds containing a mix of shrubs, perennials and bulbs designed t help pollinators all year round but there wil still be a circle of mulch at the base of the tree trunks.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
I just leave the grass long round my trees, wildlife likes it. I'll add some wildflowers this year too. When I cut it back, it only takes a couple of minutes with grass shears though.
Posts
You'll probably be ok with your circle. Just keep the grass from creeping in. It's very easy to underestimate how much competition grass is to a newly establishing tree, especially if you're planting it soon, as it will need plenty of help with watering over the next 6 months, unless you're in a consistently wet area.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I cut my squares between 75 and 100cm wide depending on the size of the tree or shrub I'm planting, add some well-roted compost and/or manure to the planting hole and re-fill soil and then, after watering, I mulch which chipped bark from our own prunings. It's essential to water the subject before and after planting and all thru any dry spells in its first spring and summer and to make sure neither the soil nor the mulch creep up the trunk. It's important to let it breathe.
As time goes by and the trees establish their root structures the plan is to join up their planting holes with fully planted permanent beds containing a mix of shrubs, perennials and bulbs designed t help pollinators all year round but there wil still be a circle of mulch at the base of the tree trunks.
When I cut it back, it only takes a couple of minutes with grass shears though.