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Laurel help

Planting_LizziePlanting_Lizzie Posts: 10
in Plants
Hi all, 

I planted some bare root laurels bought from a nursery at the beginning of February. I planted them the same day they arrived with lots of compost, some fish, bone and blood, and have been watering them every 3 days or so since. Two weeks after planting them they starting to droop, some have brown dead leaves and they just don’t look very happy. I’ve contacted the nursery who are happy to replace them and for me to try again but I was wondering if anybody knows whether I can save the ones currently in the ground? We did have some cold winds which I think has effected them unfortunately. I’m wondering whether I remove all of the leaves and prune back to encourage new growth when the weather warms up. Only issue is with that, I assume the ones that are ok would be 2-3 ft and the ones stripped of their leaves and cut back would then not catch up to the others and I would have an odd looking hedge. Any advice welcome. I’ll attach some photographs.

thank you
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Posts

  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    edited March 2023
    There will be no problem with them catching up. However if you do purchase more they could vary. They do look very close together in the first photo. It is a good idea to cut them back so that they shoot at the base, but not something I would do at present. 
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • bcpathomebcpathome Posts: 1,313
    I agree . They are far too crowded the roots need to spread ,I would remove every other one if I were you that way ,when you cut them back a bit they will sprout from the bottom and bush up . Laurel is not a very quick growing plant ,you need to wait quite a while till it looks anything in my opinion ,but eventually it will look superb .
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    Do you realise how big these trees grow,  they be 5’ deep in few years time,  they grow trunks that may push your fence over.  They need to be planted at least 2’  from the fence.  
    I’m wondering if someone who knows what they are may have sprayed them with something.  You may get one or two not looking good but the whole row doesn’t look well.
    I think you would do better putting a trellis on the fence and growing a climber, clematis or similar.   They’re not really a plant for small spaces.

    Here is one of our laurel hedges after a few years.  It’s as wide as it is tall, We cut these down twice a year and have to use a chain saw in places. 

    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • Planting_LizziePlanting_Lizzie Posts: 10
    Thanks for the replies. I think the angle of the picture i've taken of them between mine and next door's drive is giving the illusion that they are too close together? I have planted them 55 cm apart as recommended. You can walk between them currently, as our post person keeps doing! 

    I am more concerned about them having wilted and not knowing what cause of action to take next, remove leaves and and cut them back (I'll be cutting them back after the frost has disappeared anyway), or leave them and hope the leaves heal and perk back up (is that even possible?), or replace them and try again? Which one, in an expert's opinion would be the best course of action?

    The first picture of them against the fence are ones I planted a couple of weeks prior to the other ones. I was too, concerned about them being too close to the fence but was told that I could keep them fairy short and bushy by cutting them back to 1ft once to twice a year. I am now thinking I should remove them from against the fence completely now Lyn as I obviously don't want them to start competing with the fence!

    PS Nobody has touched the plants, they are in front of my house at a dead end and I have CCTV. 

    Thank you.
  • Planting_LizziePlanting_Lizzie Posts: 10
    Also forgot to mention that I believe the shallowness of the soil where they are planted against the fence wouldn't allow them to develop very big roots - but I could've got that wrong! I will reassess at that side of the drive. 
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    edited March 2023
    If they are planted in shallow soil where they can’t develop big roots then they’re not going to grow. 

    If you’ve been watering them every three days since the beginning of February … and they’re in a poorly drained shallow area then the roots are probably rotting. It’s cold … nothing is growing … they don’t need lots of water … just moist soil … I’d have watered them when I planted them and then, at this time of year I’d have given them no more water until they showed signs of growth. 

    I would cut them all back by two thirds now, cut back on the watering and cross my fingers … but I’m not very optimistic about the ones in shallow soil. 



    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    I agree - it's not a suitable site along that fence, for that plant, for the reasons mentioned, especially footings. They need decent soil and conditions to get established, and then they can be kept neat, but it's a case of wrong plant, wrong place. 
    I've grown hedging in tight places alongside pavements, but they have decent room on the other side of them [ie grass] to get established, and plenty of moisture ,and good prep. Portuguese laurel can be more forgiving, but it still needs the right start. 

    The bit between the two paved areas should have been fine, but if the prep isn't right, and therefore they don't have adequate soil to get their roots into, they'll struggle. What prep was done before planting? 
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    @Planting_Lizzie The telephone wires have disappeared in a garden near to me, the only way that this can be sorted is with a chain saw. The limbs are the same as the trunk of a medium sized tree.
    It is easy when they are small but they suddenly take off and pruning every week may not be enough. For every cut you make they shoot in two places.
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • Planting_LizziePlanting_Lizzie Posts: 10
    Thank you all. I am going to remove the plants from the bit near the fence this week and maybe put in some wild flower seeds instead for the bees etc. I did think of trellis and climbers originally but I wasn't sure if the people on the other side of the fence would appreciate it coming over the top and potentially into their gardens. 

    I am getting free replacements for the dead looking Laurels between mine and next door's drive and giving it another go. I've planted 3 per metre which seems to be quite common. The soil was turned over lots, weeds, stones, bricks (!) removed and lots of compost put in as well as bits of blood, fish and bone. 

    The advice from the seller was to water every 3 or so days, so I followed guidance though I was a bit sceptical about watering them that much in winter. Though it's been quite dry where I am. 

    Thanks all for your help. I'll probably still keep the other laurels, cut them back and put them in pots next week and watch closely to see if any are still alive and show signs of new growth!
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    @GardenerSuze. I agree  they do grow huge,  and the problem is, however many times you prune in a year, you can’t stop the trunks growing. 
    They’ll look nice between the two driveways for a few years then you may have to have them out and plant something more controllable. 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

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