@coppard.sarah I would use liquid Iron Sulphate sprayed on with a pump action sprayer. If you follow the directions the moss will start turning black within days. You will then be able to scarify. For the weeds use Resolva for lawns, mixed in with the Iron Sulphate. When using any treatment you need to know how many square feet your lawn is so you apply the correct amount. Too little and it won’t have the desired effect, too much and it will burn your lawn.
thank you for the ideas - I don’t mind a little moss but I prefer the grass - it will be a balance of nature doing it’s thing and myself trying to even it out a little - 4 years ago it was a thorn bush paradise - so I’m getting better.
Do please take great care to ensure there is no run-off of any lawn treatments that could pollute the brook. Our rivers and streams are becoming so damaged. Farmers have strict regulations that have to abide by when using fertilizer or pesticides/herbicides anywhere near a stream or river … gardeners should be very aware and take the same care.
😊
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
If we have dissuaded you from using your £25 purchase, what will you do with it?
Personally, I do fertilising, weed killing, and mosskilling as separate operations. Better control! Spot weed killing I do on each individual weed.
For moss killing, 6 tablespoons of FeSO4 per 1.5 gallon watering can, well dissolved. For me. 2 w/c cover 100m2, just a light covering. Applied like this doesn't cause any blackening of the grass. But it will "green-up" in a few days. No need to wait for rain.
Why scarity? I think of dead moss as in-situ peat. Raking just speads the spores.
If you kill the weeds and the moss separately, you may be surprised at how much grass you have. With reduced competiton, it will spread.
PS. I once asked the RHS how to kill stitchwort amongst bluebells. They (well one man) said that the selective weedkillers did not affect monocots. But do a test, don't take this as gospel.
location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand. "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
If the whole area gets waterlogged, you're fighting a losing battle trying to have a lawn rather than 'grass'.
In more rural areas, you have to accept that grass will be very variable, and approach it in a different way from a more suburban/urban garden, especially with that moving water nearby. It can create a lot of problems as @Dovefromabove describes.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Thank you - I am very conscious of the Brook and only use safe materials . I have to scarily as the moss has really taken over and by hand it would take me days and days. I am new to gardening somewhat and I planted the grass by hand so I would like to manage the moss otherwise my efforts somewhat in vain.
If the waterlogging is due to the burn flooding at various times of the year, that also creates a problem re anything you use on it. If it just gets generally waterlogged at various times of the year, grass will always struggle to look good. It's never going to be brilliant in ground that doesn't drain well. That's where a compromise comes in.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Posts
again thank you
of any lawn treatments that could pollute the brook. Our rivers and streams are becoming so damaged. Farmers have strict regulations that have to abide by when using fertilizer or pesticides/herbicides anywhere near a stream or river … gardeners should be very aware and take the same care.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Personally, I do fertilising, weed killing, and mosskilling as separate operations. Better control! Spot weed killing I do on each individual weed.
For moss killing, 6 tablespoons of FeSO4 per 1.5 gallon watering can, well dissolved. For me. 2 w/c cover 100m2, just a light covering. Applied like this doesn't cause any blackening of the grass. But it will "green-up" in a few days. No need to wait for rain.
Why scarity? I think of dead moss as in-situ peat. Raking just speads the spores.
If you kill the weeds and the moss separately, you may be surprised at how much grass you have. With reduced competiton, it will spread.
PS. I once asked the RHS how to kill stitchwort amongst bluebells. They (well one man) said that the selective weedkillers did not affect monocots. But do a test, don't take this as gospel.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
https://www.agrigem.co.uk/nutrigrow-feed-weed-moss-killer-20kg
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
If it just gets generally waterlogged at various times of the year, grass will always struggle to look good. It's never going to be brilliant in ground that doesn't drain well. That's where a compromise comes in.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...