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What to do about frost?

bédébédé Posts: 3,095
edited March 2023 in Problem solving

There have been an awful lot of threads about plants that have been damaged or even killed by frost.  I think a more general discussion might be of interest. 

Frost.  

There are two types of frost (perhaps more):  Ground frost and air frost:

Ground Frost, grass frost.

If the temperature of the ground falls below 0 °C then this is a ground frost. Ground frosts are common even when air temperatures are above 0 °C.  Ground frosts occur when the sky is clear and daytime heat is radiated and not reflected back by clouds.  I am careful with any forecast of air temperatures <4ºC if the day has been sunny. 

Air frost

If the temperature of the airfalls below 0 °C then this is an air frost.  It is very unusual for an air frost to occur when ground temperatures are above 0 °C.

If humidity is high, both types might result in mist, fog and hoar frost/rime. 

Plant hardiness.

Sap and moisture in stems and leaves freezes, and in so doing the crystals will expand and burst the plant cells resulting in localised death. 

Different plants have different strategies for combating freezing temperatures. 

1. Avoid cold climates.

2. Go dormant. Shed leaves and go underground.

3. Have antifreeze chemicals in the sap and other plant parts.

4. Have stong cell walls that resist bursting. 

It is well know by gardeners that Dahlias die at the first slight frost, but their tubers survive underground.   Many succulents like Aeoniums will suffer from a mild frost but others like sempervivums will survive down to -30. 

Some woody plants that go dormant may wake early and be affected by a late spring frost when the sap is rising .  Hydrangeas can be damaged in Surrey by a frost as late as June. 

Protection

1. Take indoors or into a heated greenhouse.

2. Take more hardy plants  into a cold greenhouse.  And dormant plants into a dark but frostproof shed.

3. Cover, Insulation.  But note that insulation only slows down cooling, not stops it.  In a prolonged or a deep freeze the cold will get in.

Be Prepared:

Follow weather forecasts from November onwards.  Perhaps early in some parts.

 

 location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
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Posts

  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    @ Thirty years ago if you wanted to plant a Hebe the advice would have been a plant for seaside locations. Cordylines were also associated with bedding schemes in sea side resorts.

    Plants such as Phormiums were rarely seen due to their lack of hardiness and some that are sold in garden centres now need to be under glass in the winter here. P Blondie and P Platt's Black sell on sight but need to come inside . I did purchase P Blondie two years ago but returned it when I realised. The response at the GC was 'needs to be under glass in winter'. Nothing to let the buyer Know. 
    Ceonothus were all but wiped out in a cold winter some years ago. 

    One thing they all have in common is they originate from the Southern Hemisphere.
    The GC's will be selling them again this summer and gardeners will continue to buy them.
    With more recent winter being warmer gardeners have' pushed the boundries' with plants like woody Salvias and Nemisias. At some point a cold winter was inevitable.
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    Perhaps what we need is better labelling on plants, with the RHS UK hardiness ratings as a minimum, that way people would know when they're taking a risk with a less than fully hardy plant. People would still need to do their homework to work out what is likely to be hardy in their particular climate and microclimates.
    I do find it interesting to read on here about what has survived and what hasn't in different areas. My shrubby salvias are mostly showing green growth already, and so is S. Amante (sister to the more famous Amistad) but that's in pots by the front door so fairly sheltered. Nothing on the Amistads yet but it's early days, they don't normally start until well into April at the earliest here.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    edited March 2023
    It seems there's also quite a strong preference for evergreens that don't shed their leaves or die back in winter, judging by the plant suggestion requests on there, and that's a major cold-climate plant survival method so it rules out an awful lot. Also, the phormium/cordyline look has been fashionable for a while - that will pass I'm sure - plant fashions come and go - and this winter might just make people think twice about them. The challenge is, a lot of the more traditional garden plants that are bone-hardy in wet/cold winters aren't always great in dry summers.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • JennyJ said:
    Perhaps what we need is better labelling on plants, with the RHS UK hardiness ratings as a minimum, that way people would know when they're taking a risk with a less than fully hardy plant.

    I'm surprised this information isn't on labels; it's standard here for perennials at least.  We have the USDA plant hardiness zones and labels will have the zone hardiness or the lowest temperature the plant can tolerate.  Zones have been updated to reflect the warming temperatures, but if I want something I know will thrive I go with our previous zone, which was 4b.  Now we're 5a but I don't trust that quite yet.  The only time you might not see hardiness zones listed is on annuals, but that could be different in southern areas of the US.


    If a plant is hardy to -20F, I'm fairly confident it will survive a frost.  It may get "frost burned" if it's a perennial, but it will recover.  I don't have plants that will succumb to frost in the spring; I wait until after the final frost date to put out tender plants.  The only time I worry is in the fall, because I may still have vegetables growing.  For tender vegetables, I generally drape a sheet over them in the evening and that's plenty to stave off a light frost.  If we're talking about a killing frost, I'd cover with the sheet or fleece and a tarp over that. 

    Now that I'm thinking about it, we did have one year a little while ago where orchards were worried about a killing frost affecting their fruit trees because the warmer temperatures earlier in the spring had promoted an earlier-than-normal bloom time.

    New England, USA
    Metacomet soil with hints of Woodbridge and Pillsbury
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    Not all parts of a plant have equal hardiness.  

    Some of my early Rhododendrons have flowers that are hardy in bud, but not in flower.  They come as a flush so that after a frost, everything is lost.

    My Camellias normally flower over a long period.  If they are cut by frost the repeats survive.

    Young shoots are also more vulnerable, perhaps that's obvious.  My beech hedge,  almost 1 year in 2, gets it;s young growth cut by ground frosts in late May, even June.   It recovers and it saves me trimming the top until later in the year.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    I wouldn't dismiss some plants as not being hardy after last winter until the conditions improve and they're given a chance to recover and may be some help.  I've seen a hedge of Griselinia which was totally blackened after a similar previous cold spell bounce back and my Phormiums have only suffered slight damage to a minority of leaves this year.  Two of my Fatsias were looking ready for the recycling bin a couple of weeks ago but now they're looking a bit more more hopeful (until the temperature plummets again this week!)
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • nutcutletnutcutlet Posts: 27,445
    I'm expecting more losses from last summer than from the winter. 


    In the sticks near Peterborough
  • TopbirdTopbird Posts: 8,355
    Ditto @nutcutlet - most mature stuff will recover from frost after a little judicious pruning. However, the extreme temps and (ongoing) severe drought of last year has stressed some plants to exhaustion.

    It is extremely worrying how little rain we've had so far in 2023. The good rainfall in Nov and Dec won't have been nearly enough to replenish ground water reserves and my soil is already so dry that I'm delaying mulching until we've either had a good downpour or I've bitten the bullet and given it a good watering.
    Heaven is ... sitting in the garden with a G&T and a cat while watching the sun go down
  • nutcutletnutcutlet Posts: 27,445
    @Topbird, I have lost things I thought were indestructible, Ribes, Tree Paeonies, Hawthorn. Maybe I'm too soon to write them off, I hope so


    In the sticks near Peterborough
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    edited March 2023
    @CrankyYankee I understand why you need detailed labelling in the US as there is such a vast difference in temperatures. It is something that should be considered in the UK as we are also seeing vast temperature differences.
    I am no expert on plant labels but they display less information than years ago, I assume to fit with EU regulations?

    @nutcutlet Yes I agree. I think a dry hot summer followed by a spell of wet weather that saturated the ground and then deep cold frosts have damaged plants at the roots.
    With more cold weather expected here in the Midlands the ground is dry which may be helpful for some vunerable plants. 
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
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