Olive trees do freely sucker but there are several possible reasons why yours is doing it so much. Drought can induce a lot of suckers as it’s a survival mechanism. Likewise if the pot isn’t draining well because the soil is too heavy and/or water cannot escape through the bottom. It needs to be on pot feet really. Another reason is if the soil level in the pot is a little too high, which means dormant buds at the base are breaking.
As tui says, just cut them off at or just below soil level, Given the sheer number of them that have been allowed to proliferate, you may have a constant battle on your hands so in future get rid as soon as you see them - before they have a chance to establish.
Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
Another reason for suckering is enthusiastic weeding around the base of the tree. If the bark is damaged by knocking or bruising by tools it will cause suckers on some trees. I have had an olive tree for a long time and never had any suckers.
Another reason for suckering is enthusiastic weeding around the base of the tree. If the bark is damaged by knocking or bruising by tools it will cause suckers on some trees. I have had an olive tree for a long time and never had any suckers.
I don't think that's the case. I have just bought the property and it has been vacant almost 1½ years. I can only assume last year's hot summer caused it some distress.
If the property has been vacant for a while I think drought is the most likely cause, since it probably hasn’t been watered very much last summer, if at all. Although it’s a big pot it’s also a big specimen, so as well as lopping off the suckers, pruning out about a third of the top growth would also help reduce stress on the tree.
Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
Olive trees do freely sucker but there are several possible reasons why yours is doing it so much. Drought can induce a lot of suckers as it’s a survival mechanism. Likewise if the pot isn’t draining well because the soil is too heavy and/or water cannot escape through the bottom. It needs to be on pot feet really. Another reason is if the soil level in the pot is a little too high, which means dormant buds at the base are breaking.
As tui says, just cut them off at or just below soil level, Given the sheer number of them that have been allowed to proliferate, you may have a constant battle on your hands so in future get rid as soon as you see them - before they have a chance to establish.
The olive tree has a terrace built around it. I am uncertain if it is planted into the ground or in a pot. I will prune out the suckers and then give it olive feed. It also needs a prune in the branches, as they're hanging low and disrupting the space on the terrace around it, but I'm uncertain as to what time of year to do that. I need to find a youtube video on how to prune an olive tree.
The best time to prune is when you are in the mood.
Prune the tree to any shape that pleases you. Correct if necessary next year. The new shoots will tend to go straight up, so choose a bud pointing down. Or cut back the upward growing shoots next year. You can be as drastic as youlike.
location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand. "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
Commercially grown trees here get pruned immediately after fruiting in winter/spring and that’s when I tend to do my ornamental ones, but they are very forgiving of timing and indeed clumsy pruning. I do try and achieve an open, vase shape though and start by removing any low branches getting in the way, then thin the whole tree a little to lighten the canopy and finally take up to a third off the height. As with any pruning and shaping, it helps to do it in stages, view it from all sides and step back frequently to see how it looks from a distance. New growth does tend to grow straight up but that’s the case wherever you cut, so I don’t bother with which way buds are facing.
Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
Commercially grown trees here get pruned immediately after fruiting in winter/spring and that’s when I tend to do my ornamental ones, but they are very forgiving of timing and indeed clumsy pruning. I do try and achieve an open, vase shape though and start by removing any low branches getting in the way, then thin the whole tree a little to lighten the canopy and finally take up to a third off the height. As with any pruning and shaping, it helps to do it in stages, view it from all sides and step back frequently to see how it looks from a distance. New growth does tend to grow straight up but that’s the case wherever you cut, so I don’t bother with which way buds are facing.
Glad that was helpful. The only other thing I would add is that you don’t have to do everything at once. If you are at all nervous about tackling it, it’s helpful to do stage 1 first (suckers, lower branches) then leave it for a while and go back to it. Good luck!
Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
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As tui says, just cut them off at or just below soil level, Given the sheer number of them that have been allowed to proliferate, you may have a constant battle on your hands so in future get rid as soon as you see them - before they have a chance to establish.
Prune the tree to any shape that pleases you. Correct if necessary next year. The new shoots will tend to go straight up, so choose a bud pointing down. Or cut back the upward growing shoots next year. You can be as drastic as youlike.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."