I'm on sand too, pebbly, drains like a sieve, slightly acid. My grass gets a spring feed and an autumn feed (just feed, not combined feed & weed). I don't really bother about any moss that appears (at least it's green) and I dig out the occasional dandelion etc with a weeding knife. I tend to leave things like violets and clovers if they appear in the grass. I usually spread the old compost from my tomatoes etc on the grass in the autumn and brush it in, more to improve moisture retention than for nutrients, but only one section will get that each year. I scarify with a machine in autumn, sometimes chuck some new seed over any thin patches, and sometimes spike the more compacted areas (under the washing line and the route to compost corner) with a fork.
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
There are signs of regrowth on all areas of our lawn, some more so than others. We go on holiday in a few days time and will be interested to see what it's like when we get back.
I think some of the balder areas are where the moss was worst. Maybe the grass will have a chance to re-establish before the moss comes back.
It's worthwhile to keep up with the mowing in dry weather. Blades set high of course. It is important to cut the seed heads off the coarse grasses to stop their seeds taking over when the moister weather returns.
location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand. "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
What dry weather! My lawn does look green. Normally it's cut every 3 days, it's the first and last job of the gardening year. I've never fed,weeded or watered any lawn
Some comments about Ferrous Sulphate aka Iron Sulfate.applied as a solution:
It seems to accelerate the rotting down of dead grass, hence I never scarify. I never rake out the killed moss, just leave it there to act as free peat.
And on mowing:
The No1 objective of mowing is to prevent the grasses from seeding so the original seed mixture is maintained. No2 objective is to mow close early in the year in order to weaken preferrentially the coarser grasses. Leave a bit longer in the summer. Keep on mowing to remove seed heads. No3 objective is aesthetic. Mowing 3x per week means you never see flowers, so the lawn stays green. This is what the National Trust do. Leaving the grass a bit longer means that weeds and moss get less light.
location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand. "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
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"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
Moss is Ok i the winter, but does not take wear, and browns uo more quickly in the sun.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
But one thing grass isn't is "frondy". Sounds good though, how do I get some.
My daughter's "meadow" is mostly yarrow - now that I would call frondy.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
It seems to accelerate the rotting down of dead grass, hence I never scarify. I never rake out the killed moss, just leave it there to act as free peat.
And on mowing:
The No1 objective of mowing is to prevent the grasses from seeding so the original seed mixture is maintained.
No2 objective is to mow close early in the year in order to weaken preferrentially the coarser grasses. Leave a bit longer in the summer. Keep on mowing to remove seed heads.
No3 objective is aesthetic.
Mowing 3x per week means you never see flowers, so the lawn stays green. This is what the National Trust do.
Leaving the grass a bit longer means that weeds and moss get less light.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."