To get flowers all the way up from the ground, you need to wrap the stems around the uprights - that's not possible with yours as the upright looks like its attached to the wall. If the stems grow straight up, flowers will mostly appear at the top. Winding the stems around the post forces flower buds to form all the way up.
Once it's at the top start tie one or more stems to each of the cross beams at the top, and tie them in as they grow along.
My pergola was covered but the roses had to go when I had landscaping done. I planted 3 x The Garland 3 years ago - they're doing well. I don't prune them really, just snip bits off that are out of place.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
I have a Pink Perpetue on (well next to) a metal arch. It has very stiff stems and it's difficult to wind them around. I tend to poke them in and out when they are still new. I think you will need some wires to attach it.
I have a Pink Perpetue on (well next to) a metal arch. It has very stiff stems and it's difficult to wind them around. I tend to poke them in and out when they are still new. I think you will need some wires to attach it.
Good idea! Or you could buy a bit of trellis and attach it to the upright, then you could twine stems in and out of the trellis as it grows then you'd get flowers all the way up. Stiff stems can still be tied in - I do it in stages over a couple of weeks - little by little.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
A trellis on the front left face there is a good idea to give it something to grow up and be tied into. Try and spread the growing rose canes out a bit and start gently bending the longest over a little before they reach the top, so they get the idea what you want them to do when they get there 😊 A rambler type with flexible canes like what @Pete.8 has is much easier to train up and over, I imagine!
Whilst you can’t do the bending and winding thing with stiff canes, if you go with the trellis idea, what you can do with any ‘spare’ canes is prune some low down and some at mid height. They will branch a little from there and you will get more coverage and blooms lower down.
I would also draw back the slate mulch around the base, maybe make a shallow wooden box frame roughly 12-18” square. Climbing roses need lots of deep watering to get established and need plently of energy to climb, so appreciate occasional feeding and a good organic mulch - all that’s really difficult to do with the slate there.
Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
Those slates around the base are not going to help your rose too much, they should be cleared so your rose can be fed and mulched adequately, and thereby encouraged to send up basal growth from below ground, which is what you will need.
'Pink Perpetue' can be trained just straight up, no need for fiddling about, but over time when you have long growth that has reached the top, you can then start to stagger the growth by pruning a cane or two mid height, and one or two low down, but you may not need to do this as this rose conveniently produces shorter growth with flowering laterals lower down without help from us. It's a bushy climber, not usually of great height, but should manage to achieve what you want I think..
I'd go with @Marlorena suggestion - she knows roses better than any of us Once you've cleared the slate, new shoots should appear from the ground (but maybe not until next year). You can then cut them as she describes to get flowers lower down.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Those slates around the base are not going to help your rose too much, they should be cleared so your rose can be fed and mulched adequately, and thereby encouraged to send up basal growth from below ground, which is what you will need.
'Pink Perpetue' can be trained just straight up, no need for fiddling about, but over time when you have long growth that has reached the top, you can then start to stagger the growth by pruning a cane or two mid height, and one or two low down, but you may not need to do this as this rose conveniently produces shorter growth with flowering laterals lower down without help from us. It's a bushy climber, not usually of great height, but should manage to achieve what you want I think..
What food would you recommend? I've all sorts bone meal, fish bone & blood & miracle grow all purpose.
If there is rain around to wash it in, then you can still sprinkle some food around even into August.. F B and B is fairly balanced I think, so I would use that as long as you don't overdo it, a little is better than too much.. but it does need to be washed in, rain or hose.. otherwise, don't bother and wait until next Spring.
Roses are usually fed, and mulched, mid March-April and again mid June/to July.. depending where you are on these islands... but the oft stated advice that you shouldn't feed after July is over cautious with most roses we grow these days..
Roses also respond especially well to supplementary liquid feeding with something like Tomorite tomato fertilizer, NPK 4-3-8, every two weeks from late June to late August.. it does wonders at that time when the weather tends to get hot.. if you have the time..
Incidentally, I've probably tried most of the available fertilizers out there, and the best performing every year has been David Austin rose fertilizer, usually available direct from them.. An alternative is Vitax Azalea, which is actually identical but you get less for your money..
If there is rain around to wash it in, then you can still sprinkle some food around even into August.. F B and B is fairly balanced I think, so I would use that as long as you don't overdo it, a little is better than too much.. but it does need to be washed in, rain or hose.. otherwise, don't bother and wait until next Spring.
Roses are usually fed, and mulched, mid March-April and again mid June/to July.. depending where you are on these islands... but the oft stated advice that you shouldn't feed after July is over cautious with most roses we grow these days..
Roses also respond especially well to supplementary liquid feeding with something like Tomorite tomato fertilizer, NPK 4-3-8, every two weeks from late June to late August.. it does wonders at that time when the weather tends to get hot.. if you have the time..
Incidentally, I've probably tried most of the available fertilizers out there, and the best performing every year has been David Austin rose fertilizer, usually available direct from them.. An alternative is Vitax Azalea, which is actually identical but you get less for your money..
Thank you so much for the info it's our first rose so this will help.
Is it worth adding a small trellis to help it upwards?
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If the stems grow straight up, flowers will mostly appear at the top. Winding the stems around the post forces flower buds to form all the way up.
Once it's at the top start tie one or more stems to each of the cross beams at the top, and tie them in as they grow along.
My pergola was covered but the roses had to go when I had landscaping done.
I planted 3 x The Garland 3 years ago - they're doing well.
I don't prune them really, just snip bits off that are out of place.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Or you could buy a bit of trellis and attach it to the upright, then you could twine stems in and out of the trellis as it grows then you'd get flowers all the way up.
Stiff stems can still be tied in - I do it in stages over a couple of weeks - little by little.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Whilst you can’t do the bending and winding thing with stiff canes, if you go with the trellis idea, what you can do with any ‘spare’ canes is prune some low down and some at mid height. They will branch a little from there and you will get more coverage and blooms lower down.
I would also draw back the slate mulch around the base, maybe make a shallow wooden box frame roughly 12-18” square. Climbing roses need lots of deep watering to get established and need plently of energy to climb, so appreciate occasional feeding and a good organic mulch - all that’s really difficult to do with the slate there.
'Pink Perpetue' can be trained just straight up, no need for fiddling about, but over time when you have long growth that has reached the top, you can then start to stagger the growth by pruning a cane or two mid height, and one or two low down, but you may not need to do this as this rose conveniently produces shorter growth with flowering laterals lower down without help from us.
It's a bushy climber, not usually of great height, but should manage to achieve what you want I think..
With the trellis would the standard trellis be better rather than the diamond fancy stuff? Easier to thread through?
Also with the trellis is it best to put some wood behind so it's a little further off the wall making it easier for the rose to grow up?
I'll clear the slate at the base at the bottom.
Once you've cleared the slate, new shoots should appear from the ground (but maybe not until next year). You can then cut them as she describes to get flowers lower down.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
I've also manure
Sorry for the delay in replying..
If there is rain around to wash it in, then you can still sprinkle some food around even into August.. F B and B is fairly balanced I think, so I would use that as long as you don't overdo it, a little is better than too much.. but it does need to be washed in, rain or hose.. otherwise, don't bother and wait until next Spring.
Roses are usually fed, and mulched, mid March-April and again mid June/to July.. depending where you are on these islands... but the oft stated advice that you shouldn't feed after July is over cautious with most roses we grow these days..
Roses also respond especially well to supplementary liquid feeding with something like Tomorite tomato fertilizer, NPK 4-3-8, every two weeks from late June to late August.. it does wonders at that time when the weather tends to get hot.. if you have the time..
Incidentally, I've probably tried most of the available fertilizers out there, and the best performing every year has been David Austin rose fertilizer, usually available direct from them.. An alternative is Vitax Azalea, which is actually identical but you get less for your money..
Is it worth adding a small trellis to help it upwards?