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Help to save Japanese Maple

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  • bcpathomebcpathome Posts: 1,313
    They need ericaceous compost really to grow properly ,as for when ,If it were me I’d leave it till the weather cools ,water it as it is at present and do it then .Most say wait till springtime but looking at yours ,I don’t think it will wait .
  • punkdocpunkdoc Posts: 15,039
    It is a bit of an urban myth that they need Ericaceous compost, neutral is fine. However, MPC will not be adequate, they need a good soil based compost, I would use a JI3, mixed with MPC.
    How can you lie there and think of England
    When you don't even know who's in the team

    S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    John Innes no 3.
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • AthelasAthelas Posts: 946
    edited July 2022
    Assuming the stem is green underneath when scratched, if it was me I would mix John Innes No. 3 with ericaceous compost in a 50:50 ratio, and add a couple of large handfuls of manure compost and another couple of handfuls of horticultural grit — filling up the pot so the compost is an inch or two below the edge of the pot.

    Then, although you would have watered thoroughly before repotting, again water the new pot thoroughly until the water runs out of the pot (6 or more litres). That way all of the substrate is permeated with water and the roots will hopefully start to venture out into the new compost.

    It helps with drainage if the pot is raised up on pot feet or wooden blocks, if that’s not already how you have it set up.
    Cambridgeshire, UK
  • Pink678Pink678 Posts: 498
    Thank you so much everyone, I will get better compost.
    And maybe just wait for cooler weather, maybe autumn I guess, to do the repot rather than waiting until spring.
    That is great advice Athelas, so helpful as I am totally new at this.
    I have to confess, the pot it's in has no drainage holes in the bottom, and I don't have a raised set up for it.
    So it sounds like I need to make sure there are drainage holes in the new large pot I get for it.
    This is probably a silly question, but when I repot, do I remove and shake off all the old soil I can, or can I repot with a whole ball of the old soil still intact? As I'm thinking it will be all wet when I repot.
  • bcpathomebcpathome Posts: 1,313
    I hadn’t realised that you had no drain holes in your pot .Suprised it’s lived this long ,I am just giving my advice from what I do with myAcers which  I’ve had for 20 years all in pots .I always use ericaceous,but you can use any other mixed with it ,it’s up to you .Yes you can put the whole root ball with as much of the old compost as is still clinging to it as you like ,there are no hard and fast rules with gardening ,everyone has their own ways and beliefs , I can only tell you what I would do in your shoes .
  • Pink678Pink678 Posts: 498
    Thanks, very much appreciated! I'll do as suggested and keep my fingers crossed.
  • KT53KT53 Posts: 9,016
    If the pot is directly on the ground, raise it on blocks so there is free drainage.  Although they don't want to get too dry, you can definitely over water them.
  • Nanny BeachNanny Beach Posts: 8,719
    I also assumed pot had drainage, although they need a lot of water when in the growing period,they certainly don't like wet feet. Ours are mix Ericaceous and JI no 3. Some of them must be 20 years old. Not often re-potted. Spring,I weed the top of the pots and top dress with a couple of inches of Ericaceous compost. Hubby feeds them every 2 weeks,till their loose their leaves.
  • Arthur1Arthur1 Posts: 542
    I grow a dozen or so acers in pots but have never used an ericaceous compost. It won't hurt but it's not necessary.
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