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Black stems and blotches on Kilmarnock type willow

Robert183Robert183 Posts: 11
in Problem solving
We have a Willow tree, similar to a kilmarnock willow, about 1 m high and it has been planted about 2 years. It started to come into leaf ok and then the leaves shrivelled and dropped, some of the thinner stems then turned totally black. I pruned these all off but now the thicker branches are getting black blotches on them with no thickening in these areas. I had scraped the bark with my finger nail in a couple of small not black areas it is still green underneath. Is there anything that can be done or is the tree now doomed? No leaves at all now and black blotches growing in size and number daily. It is planted in a border next to a lawn where all the other plants are thriving. The location is east central Scotland so not the wettest place in the UK but far from the driest. There was previously another tree in this location  that was removed as it was getting too big, the stump and roots were removed leaving a good size hole to plant the willow into. 

Posts

  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    Connecting these two up 

    https://forum.gardenersworld.com/discussion/1066142/willow-going-black#latest  

    😊 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • PianoplayerPianoplayer Posts: 624
    Hi - I think the fact you haven't had lots of replies means people are at a loss as to what it could be! I can only think it is some kind of canker/fungal infection. It certainly doesn't look promising, I'm afraid. Was the tree that was removed healthy?
  • Robert183Robert183 Posts: 11
    The tree that was removed was healthy, just getting too big for the location and starting to obstruct the pavement.
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    I think that looks like a canker of some kind. There could have been damage to the main trunk, so have a look there to see if there is any. I'm not sure that would recover.
    It's not really a good site for any kind of willow anyway - a very narrow border between a pavement, so the founds of that, and lack of soil lower down, have an impact,  and grass - competition for the moisture it needs, plus a lot of other plants nearby vying for that as well. 
    We had the driest winter here I can ever remember, plus a very dry 8 or 9 months before that, when it would have been establishing, so if it didn't have absolutely loads of water through last year, that could have been a bridge too far for it even before winter. It doesn't suit willow if they don't have room, and moisture retentive soil for the roots, plus enough consistent moisture.

    You could cut it back, but they're often grafted plants, and can also look pretty awful when pruned because of how they grow.
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • Robert183Robert183 Posts: 11
    it had loads of water last year as I have an automatic watering system for the borders during late spring to early autumn. previous tree was a Pyrus salicifolia pendula which was thriving but at 3 m diameter was out growing the space. Thanks for the help, probably time to dig it up and replace with something different. ( not sure what though)
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    You'd be surprised at just how little an automatic system would deliver to something like a willow. That would have needed a bucket of water every couple of days in dry weather, to encourage the roots to get down properly.  :)
    I think it would be better to choose something else, but maybe not a tree in those circumstances, especially as you have what looks like a Cornus nearby - those like a fair bit of moisture and room too. 
    Those Pyrus are better at coping with a drier site. Lovely trees.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    I find that ‘watering systems’ while fine for border perennials etc, do not provide enough water for trees unless programmed to water for hours on end. Far better a couple of buckets full of water poured slowly and targeted at the base of the tree, three times a week, so that it penetrates a good couple of feet down where the roots should be going. 

    Shallow watering encourages the roots to stay near the surface where they’re vulnerable during warmer drier spells. 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • Robert183Robert183 Posts: 11
    the first summer it got a full watering can full every couple of days throughout the summer, last summer it was the watering system and it thrived. The irrigation system has large sprinkler heads where the willow and dog wood are not just drip feeds and the border soil is moist (not soaking) under the first 10mm of soil all the time.
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