That's a ridiculous statement. All plants spread if given the opportunity, that doesn't make all plants, all grasses, or even all bamboos invasive. I had Phyllostachys Aurea and Nigra in a bed for years with absolutely no problem because there was a barrier all round them. When the garden was remodelled the supposedly expert gardener who did the work, removed the barrier and never said they had. Within 12 months the aurea was throwing runners out in all directions. I ended up completely removing both bamboo. On the other hand my Fargesia clump continues to expand but remains in the area it was planted.
the late Christopher Lloyd extolled the virtues of Japanese Knotweed
Very interesting. I didn't know that.
I think the industry/field live and learn, when it comes to the damage that plants can do. It seems to always be looking for the next new and unheralded wow plant. Bringing flora and fauna in from other countries is always going to be a fraught business. I would hope that everyone everywhere is going to be a great deal more careful about extolling the virtues of anything right off the bat and will be super careful what flora and fausn they import on purpose and by accident. Once it's out in public it's often nigh on impossible to put the awful genie back in the bottle.
You'd think all the Victorian disaster stories would have taught us well by now. Hmm.
@KT53 Please keep the discourse courteous and civil. There is no need for insults, no matter how strongly you feel. We are gently discussing grass, not nuclear arms.
A neighbour planted supposedly clump-forming in her front garden and now it is going down to Oz and coming up through the pavement.
This is on an tangent (I hope the OP doesn't mind). I was visiting a neighbour today who has recently bought this (above) house. He is wondering how to get rid of the running bamboo at the front - a plot of about 3mx3m. It might have been there for 20 years, erupting through the next door's garden concrete and into the pavement. As I mentioned, the previous owner was despairing; all efforts at matting and chemical control (Roundup) failed.
How would you deal with the removal. It's everywhere through the plot, even though other plants are having a go at co-living. I suggested the owner may be dig a pit to get a sense of how deep the roots might go, but that might be hard with a mat of solid root through clay. If little pieces are left, is there a chance it will regrow?
I imagine that if there is a way to kill JKW with Round Up, skills and time, it should be possible to kill bamboo that way, if you know what you're doing...?
No problem at all. Enjoying the conversation. I don't know much gardening so thinking of leaving bamboo to the experts and plant hedging. Would love to hear your opinions.
A wise decision I think, as you were having doubts, and that's not a good way to proceed.
As you said money is no object, do consider Standards, as an example you can get Photinia 'Red Robin' on a standard trunk, so the plant will be head height at time of planting.. a ready made screening if you can afford several in a row.. I think they are usually planted about 6 feet apart..
We love bamboos and have many different types growing in our garden.
They all though decide to go where they want to...even under flagstones.
We have put in barriers but they still come under them.
Again we love the bamboos but you have to take GREAT care where you plant them and then you have to KEEP looking out for the shoots where you don't want them.
It depends what style you like really - ordered rows of things or a more varied, natural look. It should reflect your tastes, personality and your house style.
Personally I would go with a selection of mixed small trees and evergreen shrubs of varied height and spread. Placing the tallest to hide the most unsightly brown bits or to screen them from view from, say, your terrace outside the house or kitchen windows etc. You could even add in some well-behaved smaller conifers as a link to the leylandii. You could then repeat one or two of whatever tree/shrubs you choose for the rear boundary screening which would link it all in nicely to create an attractive, coherent scheme.
With a no-object budget, I would hire a garden designer to create a planting scheme to your brief, stressing the need for screening and low maintenance and nothing to scare the horses (future buyers)! Then get them to project manage the whole lot. As a busy young professional you probably won’t have time to do all that conifer barrier installation, digging, soil improving, researching, selecting and planting specimens, mulching, installing an irrigation system etc.
Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
Low maintenance shrubs and trees would suit. Budget wise, I don't mind getting expensive plants/trees. But found landscape companies too expensive. I had a garden designer in who was not so good and was quoting £12k for plants that would not cost more than £3.5k. And £3k for planting a 4m x 4m front lawn. Mind boggles. But I could look for a designer with a good portfolio this time.
Same for my lawn, another landscaping company quoted £7.5k for new turf but I paid someone to level the ground and had sown the seeds myself for under £2k. So I think I can plant stuff myself by taking some time off and keep them well watered until they establish but on-going maintenance needs to be low.
I was thinking of having hedge for boundary first. Then plant a few trees in a circular shape leaving enough room for trees to grow and fill the spaces around trees and between hedge with plants as I learn more. May be it will look like a garden in 2-3yrs than the patch of lawn I currently have.
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@KT53 Please keep the discourse courteous and civil. There is no need for insults, no matter how strongly you feel. We are gently discussing grass, not nuclear arms.
As you said money is no object, do consider Standards, as an example you can get Photinia 'Red Robin' on a standard trunk, so the plant will be head height at time of planting.. a ready made screening if you can afford several in a row.. I think they are usually planted about 6 feet apart..
Personally I would go with a selection of mixed small trees and evergreen shrubs of varied height and spread. Placing the tallest to hide the most unsightly brown bits or to screen them from view from, say, your terrace outside the house or kitchen windows etc. You could even add in some well-behaved smaller conifers as a link to the leylandii. You could then repeat one or two of whatever tree/shrubs you choose for the rear boundary screening which would link it all in nicely to create an attractive, coherent scheme.
With a no-object budget, I would hire a garden designer to create a planting scheme to your brief, stressing the need for screening and low maintenance and nothing to scare the horses (future buyers)! Then get them to project manage the whole lot. As a busy young professional you probably won’t have time to do all that conifer barrier installation, digging, soil improving, researching, selecting and planting specimens, mulching, installing an irrigation system etc.
Same for my lawn, another landscaping company quoted £7.5k for new turf but I paid someone to level the ground and had sown the seeds myself for under £2k. So I think I can plant stuff myself by taking some time off and keep them well watered until they establish but on-going maintenance needs to be low.
I was thinking of having hedge for boundary first. Then plant a few trees in a circular shape leaving enough room for trees to grow and fill the spaces around trees and between hedge with plants as I learn more. May be it will look like a garden in 2-3yrs than the patch of lawn I currently have.