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Honda Mini Tiller will not start

24

Posts

  • ColinAColinA Posts: 392
    As you have apparently changed carb and ignition unit it would probably have been cheaper to use the local dealer in the first place
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 125
    In terms of my actual cost, no.  In terms of my time (of which I have quite a lot) probably yes.

    I did tell the dealer I will probably take it to, that I had replaced the carb with a Chinese cheapie and his reply was, unless asked, that is what he does and has never encountered a problem!

    But I like a challenge and this is a simple engine and I am reluctant to spend around £100 to fix something that I can hopefully do myself.  Pride and all that!
  • Have you managed to make a good seal between the carb and inlet port?  I mentioned in your other thread that any leakage there (even a small one caused by re-using an old gasket) will prevent it running as carburettors rely on the vacuum created by the piston moving down to suck-in the fuel before mixing it with the air taken in.  I don't know specifics of the choke mechanism on that machine, but if it has one and tries to fire when the choke is on, then it's almost certainly a leak between carb and inlet manifold/port.  
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 125
    It looks like a good seal.  The gasket does not appear damaged in any way and I have given it a smear of oil to 'improve' the seal.

    Have to admit to being disappointed that when buying a repair kit that comes with every carb gasket known to mankind, plus a new pump bulb and tank filter, it does not come with a new inlet gasket.  But such is life.
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 125
    People,
    Bit of success, it starts, but is racing for around 20 seconds then dies and will not start again!
    At least I now know the timing, valves and electrics are fine so it is all carb related.
    Only did two things; on the inlet gasket, there is a very small channel that the gasket seems to have been pushed into.  I 'flattened' the ridge on the gasket to clear the channel.  Probably need a new gasket which is not a bad idea.
    Also slightly bent the lever that lifts the nozzle.  Don't understand what that does, but it started on the second pull.
    So the next question, why does it start but then stall?
    Thanks and toodle pip

  • KT53KT53 Posts: 9,016
    In the olden days of cars with manual chokes, the symptoms described would match the choke being left open too long and the engine flooding.
  • Good news! Try taking the plug out immediately after it dies.  If it is wet with fuel then flooding is likely.  If it is dry and the revs increased until it cut-out, that would indicate it is running too lean, probably because air still leaking through the the old gasket or fuel starvation.  Flooding could be caused by the choke not opening, or the float height in the carb.needs adjustment.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • Another thing I've seen is a problem with the fuel tank cap.  These have a vent which can get blocked, so as fuel flows out, a vacuum is created, leading to fuel starvation after a few seconds.  Leave the filler cap loose to eliminate that one.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • RekusuRekusu Posts: 125
    Not the tank cap as I have already checked that the vent holes are clear.  Furthermore, makes no difference if the cap is on or off.
    Great idea about removing the plug after it has been running for the few seconds that it does.  Will post beck when  have checked. 
    Also ordered a new inlet gasket.  Now that I appear to have isolated the problem to what it probably always has been, the carb, if push comes to shove, will buy another carb (Chinese are not expensive) as that seems to be the least expensive solution.
  • As you've completely rebuilt it maybe it justs want running in!!.  :p <joke>
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