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How to prune this fig tree so it will ripen

mamehamameha Posts: 40
in Fruit & veg
Ive had this 5 foot fig tree in my border since I moved in, I dont know the history of it but suspect it is about 6 years old.

Anyway every year it grows loads of figs, but they never ripen.

I usually prune as pictured, ie. early summer prune off everything other than the figs and allow just a few leaves to remain.

I also feed it once a week in summer with tomato or vegetable feed, and water it with hose every few days when its hot like recently.

Please help as I would like them to become edible or else I might as well just remove it.
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Posts

  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Warmth and sun are the most important ripening factors.  Keep it in full sun and let it spend the cold months in a greenhouse sheltered from winds and frosts so the figs start ripening sooner.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • ZeroZero1ZeroZero1 Posts: 577
    I have one of similar age and history. Unfortunately i think the weather is simply not hot enough even this weather. Mine is Brown Turkey and will hit the compost heap soon. I have seen well established trees but no viable fruit
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    Tf those figs formed this year they are unlikely to ripen even with this weather.  In the Mediterranean areas figs produce two crops a year.  In the UK the best way to obtain fruit is to remove all figs bigger than a pea in September.  The small ones will overwinter and ripen the following year.

    John Cushnie says

    1. Prune established trees in June, shortening all the side shoots back to five leaves from the main framework of branches. In September, remove any fruit larger than small pea size. The remaining tiny, embryo fruit towards the ends of the shoots will over-winter and, providing they have protection from icy blasts, will ripen the following year.
    2. Prune the tree in late spring, removing shoots and buds that are pointing inwards, as well as those pointing directly out from the wall, and any growths damaged by late frost. Remove debris and prunings, and apply a 10cm (4in) deep layer of farmyard manure over the root area.
    3. When the fruit starts to swell apply a high-potash liquid feed such as tomato fertiliser weekly.
     
    https://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/how-to-grow/how-to-grow-figs/

    In spring make sure the tree has plenty of water otherwise the small fruit that have overwintered will dry and drop off. 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    I’ve got one that’s heading for the bin, it gets the figs on it, they ripen to a lovely purple colour then don’t grow any bigger than a 10p piece. 
    I don’t think my climate suits it, coming from the Mediterranean it doesn’t really stand a chance down here. 
    I’ve kept it inside for 3 years, thought I’d put it out as it’s been so warm, the leaves are lovely and huge but not good for fruit. 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    My line manager had a Black Turkey in a rural Norfolk garden, against a south facing wall ... she had ripe figs every year ... she used to bring some in to work for my breakfast (she and I were both in the habit of being early to work).

    It's getting the regime right ... I thought I'd got it right this year and then we went away in May and NDN misunderstood the watering instructions and the little fruit all dried up and dropped off  :'(  

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    I had one in a pot in my Belgian garden.   It produced ripe figs in just one exceptionally hot summer so I moved it to my greenhouse and planted it in the ground.  Not only was it not frozeen to death every winter but it grew like topsy and produced lots of ripe fruits - warmth and shelter, like I said.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,384
    Ob, did you restrict the roots when you planted it in the ground, inside your GH?  I ask as I'm thinking of doing the same with a cutting which has grown really well and is ready for it's final home.  Plan at the moment is to bury or part bury a large (~120 litre) pot in one of the GH borders.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    Did you have any heating for it in the GH over winter, gets very cold here? 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,384
    The mother plant is growing at the front of the house and has survived ok for a few years, admittedly near a south-facing wall, but hoping not to need it, Lyn.  Hopefully too, the extra bit of warmth from being under glass in autumn will help ripen them.  Nothing to lose and, tbh, I'm a bit fed up of looking at tomatoes, capsicums and cucurbits in my greenhouses.  :D  Anti-frost setting on electric fan heater a possibility, but not sure I give that much of a fig about a fig!  :)
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    If you don't want them @BobTheGardener, you can lob some over this way ... I love figs  <3

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





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