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Gooseberries - can I move them?

lydiaannlydiaann Posts: 300
in Fruit & veg
I want to move 2 gooseberry bushes from one bed to another.  Reports seem to be less than unanimous: one says I shouldn't do it as they don't like to be moved; another says I can as long as the ground is prepared 'properly'; and yet another says it's okay, just keep them well watered for a few weeks afterwards.  Before I do this, is there any Forker out there who has actually done this - and succeeded please?  And should I now wait until autumn to do so?  I'm also going to move 2 immature rhubarb crowns...I think these should be okay as rhubarb seems to survive flood and pestilence better than any fruit (veg?) I know.  Again, anyone know better about the second item than I?  Please.  :)
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  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    I would move the gooseberries in the autumn while the soil is still warm  and the rhubarb in late winter.  I think that moving the rhubarb in the summer will put a huge strain on the crown and set back cropping by at least a year.  

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • wild edgeswild edges Posts: 10,497
    I'd wait until autumn/winter when they're dormant and dig as big a root ball as you can. You can take some cuttings then in case things go wrong too. You could even try layering some branches into pots now and they might form some roots before you move them. I've grown loads of new bushes from layered cuttings and they do really well.
    If you can keep your head, while those around you are losing theirs, you may not have grasped the seriousness of the situation.
  • lydiaannlydiaann Posts: 300
    Thanks, they both sound like very good ideas.  I'll try the layering bit - I may get more bushes eventually, always good - AND move them in autumn.  After this summer's weather, I think late October sounds good.  The rhubarb is immature (planted last year), so I'm not worried about it not cropping next year - in fact, I'd quite expect that; however, I'll move it at the same time as I settle the gooseberries into their new (and I hope forever!) home.  Thank you so much again.
  • wild edgeswild edges Posts: 10,497
    Apparently sheep wool makes a great slow-release fertiliser for rhubarb. If you know any smallholders who have bags of the stuff sat around after shearing then now's the time to help them clear out the shed.
    If you can keep your head, while those around you are losing theirs, you may not have grasped the seriousness of the situation.
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    I should think a bag or two of the dags would be even better  ;)

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • wild edgeswild edges Posts: 10,497
    Well who doesn't enjoy a big bag of dags? :# The local lady I get my manure from thought I was mental when I had several bags of manky wool from her. I was thrilled with it though. I washed up some of the good bits for bird nesting material, composted a load and buried the really nasty stuff around the rhubarb. I think I posted this photo before but there's a 35kg border collie under this leaf so you can't argue with the results.


    If you can keep your head, while those around you are losing theirs, you may not have grasped the seriousness of the situation.
  • lydiaannlydiaann Posts: 300
    Don't know any farmers, but I love the tales...and the photo!
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    The tales ... and the tails  ;)<3

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • ButtercupdaysButtercupdays Posts: 4,546
    Been clipping some of my sheep this week - now I know where to put the sweepings! Though they were going on the compost anyway and a few bits for experimental slug repellant.
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,384
    I successfully moved a very old (20+ years) one a few years back - done in the autumn when it went dormant, as previously suggested.  I would suggest cutting some of the oldest wood out at the same time, leaving the bush about half to two-thirds of its current size so the roots won't be trying to feed to whole bush while they are still establishing themselves next spring.  They are incredibly easy to propagate - I literally just stick a few 8 to 10" long prunings into the ground when I do the winter prune leaving about 3 to 4" above ground and they nearly always root. :)
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
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