Don't worry too much, your rose will be fine, even if it takes a bit longer to get established.
Another thing you could consider, as I buy and replant roses probably more than most people here, is to leave the old area free of roses for a year, plant something else there, anything, runner beans, annuals, meanwhile get your new rose and repot it in a bit larger pot [it doesn't have to be enormous, it's only staying in it for a season], and grow that new rose on in a pot where it will develop more roots and become a larger plant.
Then plant it in the old spot during the following winter, by which time the ground will have started to recover, the soil improved and your new rose will be larger and better able to deal with it. It's only a season, and if you planted it straight in the ground it just might languish and do very little, so it's something to consider. I have found this method works very well.
The point made above about disbudding roses with the link to an American site, it should be pointed out that they buy many of their roses as 'own roots', i.e. not grafted, and they have a smaller less developed root system to start with. Disbudding helps their roses get established. It's not necessary with our grafted roses we get here.. but if you propagate your own roses, so you have your own 'own roots', then disbudding will help these along in the first year or two after planting, as it pushes growth.. I have a few own root roses in my garden and it does work....
Do use the MF granules with your new rose though, if planting straight away. It really does help it along in situations like this.
Is the old rose actually gone Lily? or is it still in the ground with badly damaged stems? If the latter I would cut it right back to a healthy point and feed it well. I’ve had to cut a huge climber back to about 6” before now. It sulked for a couple of months but then grew back stronger than ever.
Heaven is ... sitting in the garden with a G&T and a cat while watching the sun go down
I have a Pilgrim I put in last year. I pruned back to four canes in the Feb (as per advice). All four are the same height but two are looking strong and healthy and two are covered in black spot and have yellowing leaves. I'm wondering about cutting back those two canes and invest the energy in the two strong ones. I'm not interested in getting flowers this year. I'm more interested in get the plant strongly established and starting to cover the arch they are for. Would you say it would be worth it?
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Another thing you could consider, as I buy and replant roses probably more than most people here, is to leave the old area free of roses for a year, plant something else there, anything, runner beans, annuals, meanwhile get your new rose and repot it in a bit larger pot [it doesn't have to be enormous, it's only staying in it for a season], and grow that new rose on in a pot where it will develop more roots and become a larger plant.
Then plant it in the old spot during the following winter, by which time the ground will have started to recover, the soil improved and your new rose will be larger and better able to deal with it. It's only a season, and if you planted it straight in the ground it just might languish and do very little, so it's something to consider. I have found this method works very well.
The point made above about disbudding roses with the link to an American site, it should be pointed out that they buy many of their roses as 'own roots', i.e. not grafted, and they have a smaller less developed root system to start with. Disbudding helps their roses get established. It's not necessary with our grafted roses we get here.. but if you propagate your own roses, so you have your own 'own roots', then disbudding will help these along in the first year or two after planting, as it pushes growth.. I have a few own root roses in my garden and it does work....
Do use the MF granules with your new rose though, if planting straight away. It really does help it along in situations like this.
Is the old rose actually gone Lily? or is it still in the ground with badly damaged stems? If the latter I would cut it right back to a healthy point and feed it well. I’ve had to cut a huge climber back to about 6” before now. It sulked for a couple of months but then grew back stronger than ever.
A A Milne
A A Milne