How lovely to be in a house you intend to stay in forever. Depending on your current age that means you wi be able to see shrubs and trees grow to maturity. Your garden will go through many changes in that time. I know mine has. That is the joy of it! So you don't need to do it all in the next few weeks or months. Just keep it tidy and weed free and see as many gardens as you can in order to develop your style - straight lines, curvy, formal, cottage garden style etc. As time, enthusiasm and money permits, you can add on to it over the years and watch it evolve. Enjoy.
'Optimism is the faith that leads to achievement' - Helen Keller
Hi Ripply - you've obviously touched a nerve with your cry for help! Gardening's an absolute joy, once you get into the swing of things, so if it starts stressing you, go back inside and watch Chelsea/GW or read one of the books recommended! I only started being interested about 3 years ago, but am now hooked and know that the first thing gardens need is time - expect to get a few bits and pieces done each year and with time, you'll end up with a garden you love.
Not many plants need loads of care, but as someone mentions above, spend time in finding plants you really think are worth the bother, then learn about them. Unless you pick something pretty extreme, most plants behave nicely when you give them conditions which suits their "natural" habitat, but you need to understand what that is, and then work to give them it. A couple of examples - grass is hard to grow in shade, so don't expect it to grow well there (or find strains which do better there); dahlias (Mexican) - you guessed it - can't stand the cold and like lots of sun; as they are large plants which produce countless flowers from summer to the first winter frosts, they need massive amounts of water and nutrients, especially those which help them produce flowers (potassium amongst other things). It's too much to learn in one go, so take it step by step. Although I think you said perennial shrubs are a bit dull, some plants like rhododendrons and camellias are available at varying stages of maturity so if you're prepared to spend a few quid (well, tens of quids), you can buy yourself a few years and gain a "structure" to your garden, around which you can then plant the rest of the non-dull stuff - over time, you'll likely grow to love the glossy green backdrop they can provide more than the dainties in front of them!
Lots of good advice for you Ripply. One thing that came to mind a day or so ago. You wanted to plant your potted camellia in the ground - do you have to correct soil pH for this? Garden centres will sell cheap soil testing kits, do it a couple of places in the garden and you can avoid seeing your lovely plant struggle and suffer if your soil is alkaline, and they like an acid soil. Unless you are going to build a raised bed and fill with peat or ericaceous soil, it will struggle and will needs lots of care. As Rob said above, plant and go if given the correct conditions for them. Put them where they aren't happy and they will need lots of care. Camellias and rhodo's have a relatively small root ball, so will be ok in a large pot if you can't plant it.
Am delighted to read you have lots of cherry blossom, it will give you some shade to plant a more diverse range of plants, and lovely leaf litter for composting
Ripply can I say firstly I thought the early Alien films with you in were MUCH better! Can we ask how old you are? Yes, never a stupid question, I have been gardening over 50 years (OMG!) hated it as a kid when it was thrust upon me, weeding, never the "fun" stuff, yet, I have posted on here now asking for advice, there is ALWAYS someone who knows more than you about a particular subject, has had the same problem, I have met and made friends with some people on here, a lot I message privately, we open our hearts our soles, we dont always talk about gardening. I have an 8th of an acre which I thought was HUGE until I saw some of the amazing gardens on this site. 2015, I had a new puppy, was working nights, (100 mile round trip) got sick, (couple of days in Hospital) never thought I would get on top of anything! They used to call me Mrs Goodlife at work. Shrubs dont have to be green or boring, but it is difficult to get a garden that looks good all year, you do need some basic structure and I hate to say it ever green stuff. If you are impatient, and can afford it, get a few good size plants, them smaller ones to fill in. Annuals cheap from seed especially if you beg or borrow, that will fill a space nicely in a few weeks. I grew my first Cosmos from seed last last, they didnt look like much at first, then the were 2 feet tall and flowered till October. You will have desasters, favorite plants will die overnight, stuff wont germinate, but its like a diet, I always say to people dont focus on what you CANT eat, focus on wa you CAN.
I remember that alien film lol. I'm in my early 30's. I've never done any sort of gardening before because at the last house, I kept hens in the garden and the garden was small so it was just grass.
I've bought a soil test kit now but I'm not sure if I'm meant to test the new the topsoil that has just been delivered or the old soil in the other half of the garden. I think I'll just do both. The rest of the topsoil is being delivered on Tue and they are going to seed it all for me too.
I've been reading up on plants but one thing that confuses me is when they talk about sun/shade. The sun moves so different parts of the garden get sun at different times. Maybe they mean completely in sun or shade all the time.
Yes they do. The sunniest border will be the one facing south. An east facing one will get morning sun and a west facing one the evening sun. North facing will be in shade most of the day. Most plants are labelled sun or shade. Your borders will be sunnier or shadier depending on buildings around. Once you get to know your garden you will soon find out the different area.
'Optimism is the faith that leads to achievement' - Helen Keller
also depends on size hogweed, my back garden faces NE, but because its an 8th of an acre, completely unoverlooked and all bungalows, I get sun from sunrise, till mid afternoon, on most, and some sun till gone 6.
My understanding of the Sun/shade label is that plants will do best in sun, but will tolerate some shade for example afternoon or morning sun. But not in shade constantly.
Camillias for example are native of deciduous woodland areas, and that they flower in the spring before the leaf canopy above is at its thickest. They or rather their flower buds and flowers do not like the morning sun on them, so should be planted or placed on the side of the plot that gets the afternoon sun, and will be shaded in the morning.
Its coldest just before dawn, and any frost is more likely to be apparent and form then, so the frost tender blooms will be most damaged at that end of the day.
Sorry if this confuses things ripply, your right it's a good idea to test both your native soil and the stuff brought in.
Gardening isn't really too hard once you know where the plant you want would like to be planted. For us, if you like holidaying in the sunshine you go somewhere hot, but may like an umbrella to shade under a bit. if you like skiing you go to an alpine place With snow. It's similar with plants, if they like their feet wet - it's a bog, if they like sun, dont plant them in deep shade which gets no sun.
if your soil is going to be seeded, this will need to be kept watered. Little seedlings are fairly fragile and won't grow if they are allowed to dry out.
Hopefully you will let us know how things are going. But in 12months to 2 years time you will be having flowers and plants flourishing in your garden.
There's no hard and fast rule re the shade thing ... for some plants a lot depends on moisture levels in the soil too, but this may give you a handle on it
Posts
How lovely to be in a house you intend to stay in forever. Depending on your current age that means you wi be able to see shrubs and trees grow to maturity. Your garden will go through many changes in that time. I know mine has. That is the joy of it! So you don't need to do it all in the next few weeks or months. Just keep it tidy and weed free and see as many gardens as you can in order to develop your style - straight lines, curvy, formal, cottage garden style etc. As time, enthusiasm and money permits, you can add on to it over the years and watch it evolve. Enjoy.
can we have pictures, please.
Not many plants need loads of care, but as someone mentions above, spend time in finding plants you really think are worth the bother, then learn about them. Unless you pick something pretty extreme, most plants behave nicely when you give them conditions which suits their "natural" habitat, but you need to understand what that is, and then work to give them it. A couple of examples - grass is hard to grow in shade, so don't expect it to grow well there (or find strains which do better there); dahlias (Mexican) - you guessed it - can't stand the cold and like lots of sun; as they are large plants which produce countless flowers from summer to the first winter frosts, they need massive amounts of water and nutrients, especially those which help them produce flowers (potassium amongst other things). It's too much to learn in one go, so take it step by step. Although I think you said perennial shrubs are a bit dull, some plants like rhododendrons and camellias are available at varying stages of maturity so if you're prepared to spend a few quid (well, tens of quids), you can buy yourself a few years and gain a "structure" to your garden, around which you can then plant the rest of the non-dull stuff - over time, you'll likely grow to love the glossy green backdrop they can provide more than the dainties in front of them!
Anyway, enjoy!
Lots of good advice for you Ripply. One thing that came to mind a day or so ago. You wanted to plant your potted camellia in the ground - do you have to correct soil pH for this? Garden centres will sell cheap soil testing kits, do it a couple of places in the garden and you can avoid seeing your lovely plant struggle and suffer if your soil is alkaline, and they like an acid soil. Unless you are going to build a raised bed and fill with peat or ericaceous soil, it will struggle and will needs lots of care. As Rob said above, plant and go if given the correct conditions for them. Put them where they aren't happy and they will need lots of care. Camellias and rhodo's have a relatively small root ball, so will be ok in a large pot if you can't plant it.
Am delighted to read you have lots of cherry blossom, it will give you some shade to plant a more diverse range of plants, and lovely leaf litter for composting
Ripply can I say firstly I thought the early Alien films with you in were MUCH better! Can we ask how old you are? Yes, never a stupid question, I have been gardening over 50 years (OMG!) hated it as a kid when it was thrust upon me, weeding, never the "fun" stuff, yet, I have posted on here now asking for advice, there is ALWAYS someone who knows more than you about a particular subject, has had the same problem, I have met and made friends with some people on here, a lot I message privately, we open our hearts our soles, we dont always talk about gardening. I have an 8th of an acre which I thought was HUGE until I saw some of the amazing gardens on this site. 2015, I had a new puppy, was working nights, (100 mile round trip) got sick, (couple of days in Hospital) never thought I would get on top of anything! They used to call me Mrs Goodlife at work. Shrubs dont have to be green or boring, but it is difficult to get a garden that looks good all year, you do need some basic structure and I hate to say it ever green stuff. If you are impatient, and can afford it, get a few good size plants, them smaller ones to fill in. Annuals cheap from seed especially if you beg or borrow, that will fill a space nicely in a few weeks. I grew my first Cosmos from seed last last, they didnt look like much at first, then the were 2 feet tall and flowered till October. You will have desasters, favorite plants will die overnight, stuff wont germinate, but its like a diet, I always say to people dont focus on what you CANT eat, focus on wa you CAN.
I remember that alien film lol.
I'm in my early 30's. I've never done any sort of gardening before because at the last house, I kept hens in the garden and the garden was small so it was just grass.
I've bought a soil test kit now but I'm not sure if I'm meant to test the new the topsoil that has just been delivered or the old soil in the other half of the garden. I think I'll just do both. The rest of the topsoil is being delivered on Tue and they are going to seed it all for me too.
I've been reading up on plants but one thing that confuses me is when they talk about sun/shade. The sun moves so different parts of the garden get sun at different times. Maybe they mean completely in sun or shade all the time.
Yes they do. The sunniest border will be the one facing south. An east facing one will get morning sun and a west facing one the evening sun. North facing will be in shade most of the day. Most plants are labelled sun or shade. Your borders will be sunnier or shadier depending on buildings around. Once you get to know your garden you will soon find out the different area.
also depends on size hogweed, my back garden faces NE, but because its an 8th of an acre, completely unoverlooked and all bungalows, I get sun from sunrise, till mid afternoon, on most, and some sun till gone 6.
My understanding of the Sun/shade label is that plants will do best in sun, but will tolerate some shade for example afternoon or morning sun. But not in shade constantly.
Camillias for example are native of deciduous woodland areas, and that they flower in the spring before the leaf canopy above is at its thickest. They or rather their flower buds and flowers do not like the morning sun on them, so should be planted or placed on the side of the plot that gets the afternoon sun, and will be shaded in the morning.
Its coldest just before dawn, and any frost is more likely to be apparent and form then, so the frost tender blooms will be most damaged at that end of the day.
Sorry if this confuses things ripply, your right it's a good idea to test both your native soil and the stuff brought in.
Gardening isn't really too hard once you know where the plant you want would like to be planted. For us, if you like holidaying in the sunshine you go somewhere hot, but may like an umbrella to shade under a bit. if you like skiing you go to an alpine place With snow. It's similar with plants, if they like their feet wet - it's a bog, if they like sun, dont plant them in deep shade which gets no sun.
if your soil is going to be seeded, this will need to be kept watered. Little seedlings are fairly fragile and won't grow if they are allowed to dry out.
Hopefully you will let us know how things are going. But in 12months to 2 years time you will be having flowers and plants flourishing in your garden.
There's no hard and fast rule re the shade thing ... for some plants a lot depends on moisture levels in the soil too, but this may give you a handle on it
http://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/plant-inspiration/types-of-garden-shade/
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.