Damp, soggy low corner of lawn
garmcqui
Posts: 14
Hi all,
We have a newish-build house (built 2014) with a plain lawn at rear. It's in pretty bad condition after this winter, so I plan to aerate it with a rolling aerator and hollow tine aerator, descarify to remove thatch and apply a light topdressing and fertiliser.
However, there is one corner of the lawn which I feel needs raising up slightly, it's always damp and soggy. You can just about make it out in the top left of this photo http://imgbox.com/o3TaVUOs
Can I just apply top soil to this corner to raise it up and seed grass on it. Or should I mix in some sharp sand too? The soil is quite heavy clay, and I'm sure the developers put the minimum amount of topsoil down below the turf.
Any advice appreciated!
Gareth
Last edited: 10 March 2017 14:43:52
Posts
Hi Gareth
I am in very similar shoes having moved into a new build in 2014. If my house is any guide, then you will find rubble, broken bottles, and all sorts of other delightful things in your garden when digging.
The primary problem with the soil will be that it will be very compacted. With heavy machinery driving round on it, and then the landscapers basically throwing some turf on it, you are not set up with the best starting conditions.
Airation and hollow-tining is definitely a good idea, when it is really dry, you can then sweep some sharp sand into the holes to increase drainage.
Raising the section that is affected is not a great solution, because you will very possibly end up scalping the lawn when mowing, unless you put a proper slope in. Two solutions: (1) rake the dead stuff out - by the look of things this will be pretty much all in that corner - and sow a drought- and bog-tolerant seed mix in there. See how you get on. (2) Dig it over, and put a flower border in there with some bog-plants. Depending on the situation, you will be able to choose between shade loving and sun loving plants.
I hope this helps a little!
Is the bad corner in the shade which way does the sun move around the garden and yes you will find modern builders compact the base with machinery never re-dig it lay the thinnest top soil on then turf. It usually ends up in time digging it all out laying drainage lifting the soil depth then laying a proper lawn.
For now, most lawns are very wet and you should keep off it until it dries out a bit that means any work will be done in around a months time or even later depending on which part of the UK you live. I would remove the turf from under the fence panels as it has no chance, I am assuming that is the damp corner, dig out a bit of the soil lay a membrane and use some sort of slate or pebble filling this will tidy up and help drain it a bit. Or you could start a border with some plants that will take some of the water up. You have all lawn and paving, the water has nowhere to go and the amount that has fallen this winter it is bound to be wet.
That is only emergency advice as any major work will depend on your finances and time to do the work, there is no quick fix, draining properly will mean removing large bits of the lawn and then re-laying again where would you drain it too? Borders are ideal and will take a lot of the water falling on the lawn, the plants or small fruit trees if that fence gets any sun will take up surplus water.
Sorry to tell it as it is any quick fixes will be just that and you will be doing it again next year, lawns take work as mine do and they were put down properly. Good luck.
Frank.
Is that corner lower lying than the rest, Gareth, and you want to raise it to the same level, or have I misunderstood?
If that's the case, you'll still need to aerate like the rest of the plot, and then you could add topsoil to level up the area, followed by a bit of reseeding. If it's shady, use a specific mix for that, as already suggested. It does help quite a bit.
It does look like it's been cut recently - very short, but that may just be the pic. Unfortunately, as has been said, new builds are notorious for the poor ground where lawns are laid. Avoid scalping the grass when you mow - cut more often and leave it slightly longer. The general rule is take no more than a third of the length off. That helps the grass thrive too
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Hi all, and thank you for your replies.
Because of the fences on two sides, the corner in question only receives light in the early morning, so the grass growing there is in the shade 80% of the day.
I don't think I will catch the mower on it if I raise it, as I only intend raising it to match t he surrounding lawn, as Fairygirl suggests. You can make out the levels better here: http://imgbox.com/H9LnDRTh
I am planning on top dressing the lawn anyway, so was going to build it up with a mix of topsoil and top dressing, and sow shade resistant seed there. I may also dig a "sump" down as deep as I can and fill it with stones/gravel in an effort to improve drainage in that corner.
Regarding the rest of the lawn, we had a few dry days there so I have scarified it (removed a full wheelie bin of thatch) and had a go at aerating it with aerating sandals and/or a garden fork, as seen here http://imgbox.com/Ge9ZUKoT. However I may hire a hollow tine aerator and do it properly before top dressing.
Regarding top dressing, I read so much conflicting advice online for clay soil such as this. Some say sharp sand, others say not to use sharp sand as it contains lime and/or salt. Others say you need to add organic material like compost, whilst others say add horticultural grit.
So I can get a dumpy bag of sharp sand from the local builders merchant for about £45, or I can get proper top dressing for about £90, or horticultural grit for about the same price. Which of these would you go for?
http://www.compostdirect.com/topsoil-lawn-dressing/p72
http://www.compostdirect.com/horticultural-grit/p22
Thanks in advance,
Gareth
Last edited: 22 March 2017 12:25:02
For brushing into fresh aeration holes, sharp sand. It will help with drainage. For feeding and improving theoverall health of the lawn apply top dressing according to the instructions.
Raise the mower blades too. As FG says, grass needs foliage to grow well and get its roots down so don't scalp it too short.
Last edited: 22 March 2017 12:26:34
Thanks Obelixx,
The topsoil lawn dressing I linked to says it is 80% sand, would it improve drainage as well as feeding and improving lawn health.
Regarding mower height, yes, I mowed it lower than I usually would due to planning to scarify and aerate.
Also, would my plan of digging a sump (intent to dig as deep as I can manually, hopefully about a foot or two) and filling it with stones help at all?
Thanks again,
Gareth
Last edited: 22 March 2017 12:32:12
It means you're paying an awful lot for the sand. Better, probably, to buy them separately. Get your aerating done as soon as poss and brush in teh sharp sand and then, in mid April, you can use lawn weed and feed mix following the instructions on the pack.
ok, so just ordinary sharp sand from a builder's merchant, or does it need to be washed?
Am I just wanting to fill the aeration holes, not cover the entire lawn to 1/4-1/2 an inch as I would with a topsoil lawn dressing?
Just make sure it's sharp sand and not builder's sand. One is sharp and drains well and the other is rounder and soggier for mixing into concrete. Pour the sand on in piles and then brush across the lawn with a stiff brush so that it falls into your aeration holes. Do it on a dry day.
Topdressing will come in packs with instructions for application rates, as will a weed and feed mix. Do make sure you leave a couple of weeks between the sand treatment and any top dressing so your grass has tie to recover form all the attention..