The pH of the leafmould is dictated by the "leaves" used. IMHO if you use solely pine needles, you'll get acidic leafmould, but if it's mixed , it's pretty much neutral.
The pH of the leafmould is dictated by the "leaves" used. IMHO if you use solely pine needles, you'll get acidic leafmould, but if it's mixed , it's pretty much neutral.
Thanks for this and the link. Most of the leaves are, as mentioned, from a large Loquat tree I have (the link doesn't mention this type). They are large, quite leathery but I scrunch them up when dry. I can't find any link relating to these leaves re. leaf mould so cannot ascertain their usefulness/purpose. Any help on this?
A 'weed' is just a plant in the wrong place - subjective!
Leathery leaves are best run over the mower first. I do this with sweet chestnut otherwise they just sit there taunting you. As the RHS says, unless you're using all pine needles, you're unlikely to have any problem with pH.
Leathery leaves are best run over the mower first. I do this with sweet chestnut otherwise they just sit there taunting you. As the RHS says, unless you're using all pine needles, you're unlikely to have any problem with pH.
Thanks for that. Helpful!
A 'weed' is just a plant in the wrong place - subjective!
Posts
However using a mulch which contains lime/chalk on ericaceous i.e. limehating plants will damage them.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=478
When you don't even know who's in the team
S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border
As the RHS says, unless you're using all pine needles, you're unlikely to have any problem with pH.