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New Allotment ????????
Verity Veg
Posts: 7
Hello 
I have just taken on my 1st allotment plot very excited!!!!!!
It is going to take some true TLC, so I have decided to concentrate on 1/2 this year.
My question is before I cover the other 1/2 to kill weeds and growth can I use a weed killer and if so what would be the best friendliest one ( for my future veg) out there...??
Thankyou ????????
0
Posts
Hello I would like a allotment could you inform me how much a week are you charged for one .
Regards Jason
There are a few that claim to break down on contact with the soil. Legally I think all commercially sold herbicides are supposed to break down within 2 weeks but there are ones that claim a residual effect (usually ones sold for paths and drives rather than lawns). If you read the packs carefully they will state how quickly they break down and whether they are safe to treat areas to be planted for edible plants, so if you want to try this, take your time in the garden centre and read all the very small print very carefully.
Having said that, it depends on how you feel about chemicals in your food and whether you have confidence in what the companies that sell this stuff tell you. Personally I would not use a chemical weedkiller where I intend to grow food. I would probably hand weed as much as you can manage to do and start with that, rather than apply a herbicide. Second option would be to use an organic herbicide - vinegar or citric acid, basically - which will take out 'soft' annual weeds. I doubt it'll have much impact on brambles or docks - they just have to be pulled out. Usually several times before you get them completely but you can get rid of them out if you are persistent and diligent.
It isn't necessary to have a complete scorched earth policy before you begin. It is best to get as much out as you can, to reduce the competition for nutrients. But clearing 90% of the weeds and then repeatedly pulling out the last 10% does work in the long run. And also some weeds are good - edible ones like 'fat hen' and useful ones like comfrey and nettles (make plant food) can be kept in a small patch if you keep a very watchful eye for them going feral and don't let them seed. If you have mares-tail and bindweed you may have more of a problem - even spraying and sheeting those often doesn't work as well as just pulling them up every time you see any at all.
Exciting though
Last edited: 09 February 2017 19:50:21
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.”
How exciting for you. I began a new veg plot in our garden a few years ago, originally i dug the whole lot over as i was so excited to fill it full of veg......but if i was starting again i would make some pathways fronm the start. Make a plan and divide your plot into sections and don't dig the pathways keep them as firm walkways around your plot, i find now that i can weed kill the pathways and keep them clear and get to each section of my plot without having to walk over crops. It took a while to make the pathways after i had dug thecwhole thing over
Hi all....
Many thanks for your responses....
I will take all advice on board and plough slowly on....
This time next year......???
Verity Veg ?
cover the area with a layer of cardboard (no need to remove the weeds or even cut them back if they fold flat) then cover the cardboard with a couple of inches any organic matter you can get your hands on, grass cuttings (not the right time of year but in spring might be useful) fresh manure, rotted manure, compost, woodchips etc. then cover with terran (or another weed suppression membrane) hold it down with some bricks.
you can add more organic matter during the summer, layers of grass cuttings really work - make the layers no more than an inch thick. Then next year take off the terran and plant straight away into the stuff on top, no need for digging.
Wow tree hugger... Fabulous...??
Many thanks indeed ...