Seriously, though. Acer palmatum is not totally comfortable in the UK climate. It is too dry for it. They are understorey plants in tall forests in parts of Japan where the air remains reliably moist. So over the summer, if you haven't always been able to provide ideal conditions, they don't get enough water. Unfortunately Acer palmatum cannot wilt. Result: the leaf edges frizzle.
Suggestions for next year. Put it in a shadier place. And above all, you'll need to rethink the way you are cultivating it. Unless it is a very midget variety, bear in mind these things are trees. You'll need a container the size of a half barrel, and a really useful tip is to use John Innes Ericaceous compost. Anything else, and in my experience, they just don't form a proper root system, which exacerbates the water problem and they die within a couple of seasons.
John Innes ericaceous compost is like gold dust (apparently) but persevere, don't let the garden centre fob you off with some other kind of ericaceous compost. John Innes contains loam not peat. Like all woody plants, but particularly so, the acer needs to be growing in soil. Make sure there is a good layer of crocks in the base for drainage, and don't fertilise, but make sure it doesn't dry out. Be prepared for it to become large.
By autumn, you'll almost inevitably see some frizzling--our summers are just too hot and dry. But what you're now seeing is also the effect of autumn, so all its leaves are going to drop off. When they are gone is the ideal moment to repot in the large container, so you have some time now to get your compost supply and container. They can last for years in a container, but only in the right size container and the right compost mix--otherwise they die a lingering death.
Many of my acers are in full sun, but sheltered away from drying winds.That said, I do have one 7 footer that takes all the weather, but he's a bit of an exception and acclimatised to the weather. Free-draining compost, soil based (to my mind, JI 3's too claggy and I use Melcourt multi-purpose with added JI, plus my added bits), and a yearly top dressing with good, well rotted leaf mould. Don't pot it up until next spring otherwise it'll sit in soggy compost over the winter and that'll rot the roots, leading to more problems. That looks like the cultivar 'Bloodgood' which will reach 8 - 10 feet tall in time, but don't panic about pot size - go up steadily.
I've always used JI ericaceous, which is more sandy than JI 3. That seems to work wonders in terms of root growth. Also, warm October weather should be quite good (as with other shrubs/trees) for letting the roots get established before the winter, but Hortum-cretae is right that you don't want to be repotting in the depths of winter.
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It's called 'autumn' carly
Seriously, though. Acer palmatum is not totally comfortable in the UK climate. It is too dry for it. They are understorey plants in tall forests in parts of Japan where the air remains reliably moist. So over the summer, if you haven't always been able to provide ideal conditions, they don't get enough water. Unfortunately Acer palmatum cannot wilt. Result: the leaf edges frizzle.
Suggestions for next year. Put it in a shadier place. And above all, you'll need to rethink the way you are cultivating it. Unless it is a very midget variety, bear in mind these things are trees. You'll need a container the size of a half barrel, and a really useful tip is to use John Innes Ericaceous compost. Anything else, and in my experience, they just don't form a proper root system, which exacerbates the water problem and they die within a couple of seasons.
John Innes ericaceous compost is like gold dust (apparently) but persevere, don't let the garden centre fob you off with some other kind of ericaceous compost. John Innes contains loam not peat. Like all woody plants, but particularly so, the acer needs to be growing in soil. Make sure there is a good layer of crocks in the base for drainage, and don't fertilise, but make sure it doesn't dry out. Be prepared for it to become large.
By autumn, you'll almost inevitably see some frizzling--our summers are just too hot and dry. But what you're now seeing is also the effect of autumn, so all its leaves are going to drop off. When they are gone is the ideal moment to repot in the large container, so you have some time now to get your compost supply and container. They can last for years in a container, but only in the right size container and the right compost mix--otherwise they die a lingering death.
Many of my acers are in full sun, but sheltered away from drying winds.That said, I do have one 7 footer that takes all the weather, but he's a bit of an exception and acclimatised to the weather. Free-draining compost, soil based (to my mind, JI 3's too claggy and I use Melcourt multi-purpose with added JI, plus my added bits), and a yearly top dressing with good, well rotted leaf mould. Don't pot it up until next spring otherwise it'll sit in soggy compost over the winter and that'll rot the roots, leading to more problems. That looks like the cultivar 'Bloodgood' which will reach 8 - 10 feet tall in time, but don't panic about pot size - go up steadily.
H-C
I've always used JI ericaceous, which is more sandy than JI 3. That seems to work wonders in terms of root growth. Also, warm October weather should be quite good (as with other shrubs/trees) for letting the roots get established before the winter, but Hortum-cretae is right that you don't want to be repotting in the depths of winter.
Thank you both. I thought something was eating it! Phew. I will repot in spring like you both suggest. Thanks again. As you can tell I am a novice ??