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Autumn Lawn Feed Question
Turnipfarmer
Posts: 34
I'm gonna try and tackle my lawn today and feel I need to put down some autumn lawn feed. I haven't done it since living in this house which is two years.
It's got a moss and weed issue. I plan to rake out moss in couple of weeks after moss treatment has worked.
Now is this the best time to put down weed and feed? Also am I OK to put it down straight after I've mowed the lawn today?
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I'm far from an expert on lawns but I'll answer your last question first. No.
If your are going to apply any weed treatment, there needs to be sufficient surface area of weed for the product to "attach" itself. I used Resolva last week and it recommends 5 days after mowing and leave for a further 7 days to allow it to work. Mine's not a moss killer so the product you use will have different parameters. Check on the packet for instructions.
DO NOT OVERDOSE!
It's like medicine...taking twice as much doesn't make you twice as well!!!!! It'll burn your grass into a black mess.
September is an excellent time for treatments and someone with a proper lawn will be here soon to advise you. Mine is still very much a weedy work in progress.
A couple of us have splashed out on this little beauty after discussions on the forum. It has both rake and scarifier attachments.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb428gdo-32cm-1300w-lawn-scarifier-230v/48162?_requestid=66998
Unfortunately you've missed the offer.
Normally you need a few days after mowing before applying so perhaps check the product first. The spring/summer ones recommend that anyway.
How weedy is your lawn? If it's not bad, you might be as well waiting till spring, and starting a good programme of weeding and feeding, but it does depend on your climate and conditions. If you feel it will be warm enough for the next month or so, I'd reckon you can apply it as the grass will get a chance to recover and grow on a bit before winter. It's more of an issue if the area you're in doesn't get much rainfall.
I never remember to do autumn feeds
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
If you rake the moss out now before feeding you can compost it, cut the grass then leave for ten days. This will allow it to put on some growth then spread the WINTER feed and weed which is a slow release type and water in well. The root will take up the nutrient on the warmer days resting during cold days. The feed and weed can be put on any time up to the end of September even October in warmer parts of the UK. The above advice is good less is more when applying the feed, better to reduce the amount given on the box rather than have a burnt lawn, the watering in is essential and that means well watered in over a day or so unless you get pouring rain.
My two lawns get Spring and winter feeding no strange flowers appear, not so with the lawns around me which get dandelions daisies and such so it works, read the box and be careful how you scatter the fertiliser if you do not have a spreader.
Frank.
Verdun, we only differ because we live at different ends of England. I helped with our Bowling greens at the club and we did it our way because every so called lawn expert had different methods. We live in an area where you do not get extreme weather conditions, too much heat or too much cold, over the years you learn your area and its foibles. We did top dress the bowling green lawns, £600 for enough to be raked over the lawns then left, it contained feed and weed although we kept a few yards of lawn aside to cut out rings to replace where we at times had to cut out a tuberous weed. My own lawns much tougher grass does actually improve with winter feed and weed as i proved when away and unable to do the last dressing, it ended up with three Spring dressings instead of two plus having to spot weed, something never needed when winter weed and feed is added. It all depends on where you live, what kind of lawn you have, I would never try to have a bowling green at home, and also how much work you are able or willing to put into the maintenance. Most people cut too low, leave moss down so the roots lift up into the moss, forget it needs spiking at least once in the year and sharp washed sand swept into the holes allowing air and drainage to the roots. Lawns are hard work though as most around here are football fields as children are kept away from the wonderful meadows streams and woods we have around us because it could be dangerous they tend to be neglected.
A lawn is what you make it and that means working at it something we do in our own way, each to his her own as they say and P.P. should be growing sea weed by the sound of it.
Frank.
You've no idea how close to the truth that is Frank. I have soft rushes a foot high because if I tried to mow I'd be up to my ankles in water in places.
The front is slightly raised so drier under foot but still full of moss despite being in full sun.
The front I'm trying with, the back can go and toot. Anyone want an acre of water meadow?
HaHa I've just googled water meadow to see what it actually is. It's meant to have controlled irrigation. Mine must be pre groundworks!!
P.P. Ah "J" the village I lived in as a lad was surrounded by water meadows, the animals fed in them all spring and summer, winter they would flood to about six inches and freeze, we all had clip on ice skates, the whole village would be on those fields in the evening with braziers cooking potato's and chestnuts, a good time being had by all. Now most of those fields are new build estates and they wonder why their lawns are a soggy mess every winter, I could tell them. Dont fight it "J" you will never win unless you raise the level after draining. You could run it back into the Loch.
Frank.
My bowling green 15 minutes ago.
If you could see it, inside that wellie is a well turned ankle!
Last edited: 08 September 2016 12:09:49