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No Dig Approach
M99
Posts: 17
in Fruit & veg
Interested to know if anyone has used the No Dig Approach like Charles Dowding with only using surface composting or by using grass cuttings as a mulch, (thinly spread), like Barbara Pleasant to grow their vegetables. Wondered if there was much difference in results?
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I did a half and half plot last year, half no dig just rotted manure on top, half traditionally dug with manure at the bottom. Honestly couldn't tell the difference yield wise, but the manure on top part kept moisture so much better, so I think it depends on your soil type. I have fast draining light sandy soil and so the mulch kept it cool and moist.
I would say if you have light soil give the no dig a go, but with heavy soils it will only cause issues.
I have been doing no dig for three years now. I followed Dowding's instructions - hard work carting manure in the first year but easier after that. The yields have been high and would not use any other system now. My soil is stony and light, so probably a good idea here. I do not use grass as a mulch - I already have enough weeds to deal with and don't want any more!
Very interesting Grannybee. Thank you for sharing that.
I use no-dig followng Charles, and have done so for a few years, but this year is the first season where I have done it properly. I have about 20 square metres of veggies, as well as some fruit. This year I spread 3" of compost in early spring, pressed it down by standing on a board, and supposedly difficult seeds such as salsify and parsnip have germinated quickly, presumably because the compost warms up quicker than bare soil which in my garden is very heavy clay. I get less weeds, and less work is needed. The one downside is that it must be netted, otherwise blackbirds bounce around, digging holes, throwing compost all over the place and destroying seedlings.
I've also had less problems with flea beetles this year, whether that is the compost layer, or starting pak choi in modules I know not.
Charles's advice is simple, and probably not originated by him, but he has popularised the method, and proven that it works just as well as digging. I also following a recommendation by Charles raise many seedlings in modules, in a coldframe, which gives them a head start and protects them from flea beetles and the like.
A read a book by Dr. Shewell-Cooper in the 70s on this subject and have used this method since we moved here with its light, sandy, acid soil. Now, in the veg. patch, there is good topsoil certainly to a spade depth. We had heavy clay at one house and it would not have worked there, but gypsum was very successful.
Verdun: Charles Dowding has proven that you do not need to dig in muck in the first year. In my case I would argue against digging it in, as leaving it on top means the soil is warmer in spring so seedlings get a head start.
Malcolm: Dowding has heavy clay soil, and no dig worked for him. I too have heavy clay soil and it works for me. Basically spreading compost allows worms to drag it down and improve the soil.
I suspect a lot of small scale farming is based on lore rather than tested principles. And of course farming advice might be biased towards the methods that benefit the big chemical companies as they pay for research.
I went away from digging over 30 years ago, Geoff Hamilton re-inforced the idea for me with the narrow bed system where you never walk on the soil . You put plenty of nutrient and humus into the ground to feed the ground and encourage the worms, then a surface tilling was all I needed to do. I have now moved onto raised beds as I get older to aid easy soil management and have worked organically all the time. I have not had to contend with heavy clay in any of the 5 gardens I have had in this time, so this may need a bit more preparation. I think the key is not to walk on the soil so as to reduce soil compaction.
I'm doing things the easy way and using the method for growing perennial vegetables and herbs. I am growing perilla (self seeds) mizuma, lovage, ramsons (and an autumn appearing pink alternative alongside) sweet-cisserly, French sorrel, repeating cabbage and cellery, lots of impromptu stuff, but not the usual because they are all perennials, shrubs, or self-seeding. My idea is to just keep replacing any weeds individually, as they appear, with more perennial edibles. It's going well so far - into it's third year properly. There are some small fruit trees too.
It is half shaded, half sunny woodland edge, so I can use quite a wide range of plants. The most important thing in this situation is adding nutrients in the form of composted stuff - the trees have already dredged most of the good stuff out, leaving sand and fibre to a great degree - so I'm composting like crazy.
Last edited: 21 May 2016 23:50:20