But groups 1 and 2 don't get pruned to the ground and then you have to untangle them surely?
Academic for me as the only group 1 that has proved hardy enough to survive here is I Am Red Robin. All the alpinas and montanas and evergreens turned up their toes and never came back.
I usually treat group 2s as group 3s and cut them to the ground because they get frozen to bits too but always produce lots of stems from below ground, although this winter has been milder than usual so some are behaving normally. I might just layer them and see if I can get new plants.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
...I have a gr.1 next to a gr. 3 and it is not to be recommended... as when removing the gr.3 canes it's unavoidable that some of the gr. 1 gets damaged along with it... I now try to keep them trained apart....
...I also have several 6 foot obelisks, that's 6 foot above ground... I like clematis 'Durandii' which is herbaceous and fits neatly with this measurement..I have it with a yellow rose 'The Lark Ascending'.... both flower for a long time from mid June...
...your photo of the rose and clematis is quite beautiful though Richard... and I wonder if you use slug bait as if those little shoots were in my garden they would have been eaten off by now, if not for late night vigilance....[I don't use chemicals]...
Crikey I seem to have kicked off quite a debate. Lots to think about before choosing. Yes the obelisk will be sunk into the ground so will be shorter than 7ft. And its vertical too
I've considered fixing a length of timber to the top and running that across to our 6ft fence though it might defeat the object as obelisks are meant as stand-alone
It's your shout, Fishy. Up to you to decide what you want, If you want a longer more colourful feature on your obelisk and you want to grow clematis then you need to grow Early Flowering and Later Flowering pruning groups together. OK, as some posters on here have said, it is not easy at pruning time, but gardening is not easy.
If growing Group 2 and Group 3 clematis together it is quite easy to chop the Group 3 hard back in February and leave the dead stems in situ for a couple of weeks then drag them out when they are dead, you may break a few branches off the Group 2 but it will not harm the plant.
In her latest book, Carol Klein has devoted a full chapter to the garden here and the clematis we grow, terribly hard work to keep up with but the end result is what matters.
Lovely idea but, in terms of hardiness, rubromarginata failed in my garden in a winter when we only went to -16C. Expect that's OK for most of the UK though.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
x triternata rubromarginata is a cross between viticella and flammula, fortunately it is much tougher than flammula and the scent is superb, a lovely plant.
Posts
Every clematis here has a tag label, some also, my National collection, have aluminium labels.
Note also how new shoots come from below ground after planting deep.
More new shoots, more stems, more flowers.
But groups 1 and 2 don't get pruned to the ground and then you have to untangle them surely?
Academic for me as the only group 1 that has proved hardy enough to survive here is I Am Red Robin. All the alpinas and montanas and evergreens turned up their toes and never came back.
I usually treat group 2s as group 3s and cut them to the ground because they get frozen to bits too but always produce lots of stems from below ground, although this winter has been milder than usual so some are behaving normally. I might just layer them and see if I can get new plants.
...I have a gr.1 next to a gr. 3 and it is not to be recommended... as when removing the gr.3 canes it's unavoidable that some of the gr. 1 gets damaged along with it... I now try to keep them trained apart....
...I also have several 6 foot obelisks, that's 6 foot above ground... I like clematis 'Durandii' which is herbaceous and fits neatly with this measurement..I have it with a yellow rose 'The Lark Ascending'.... both flower for a long time from mid June...
...your photo of the rose and clematis is quite beautiful though Richard... and I wonder if you use slug bait as if those little shoots were in my garden they would have been eaten off by now, if not for late night vigilance....[I don't use chemicals]...
Crikey I seem to have kicked off quite a debate. Lots to think about before choosing. Yes the obelisk will be sunk into the ground so will be shorter than 7ft. And its vertical too
I've considered fixing a length of timber to the top and running that across to our 6ft fence though it might defeat the object as obelisks are meant as stand-alone
It's your shout, Fishy. Up to you to decide what you want, If you want a longer more colourful feature on your obelisk and you want to grow clematis then you need to grow Early Flowering and Later Flowering pruning groups together. OK, as some posters on here have said, it is not easy at pruning time, but gardening is not easy.
If growing Group 2 and Group 3 clematis together it is quite easy to chop the Group 3 hard back in February and leave the dead stems in situ for a couple of weeks then drag them out when they are dead, you may break a few branches off the Group 2 but it will not harm the plant.
In her latest book, Carol Klein has devoted a full chapter to the garden here and the clematis we grow, terribly hard work to keep up with but the end result is what matters.
Lovely idea but, in terms of hardiness, rubromarginata failed in my garden in a winter when we only went to -16C. Expect that's OK for most of the UK though.
RHS has rubromarginata at H5 in its hardiness rating
A visit to the garden centre is on the cards.
x triternata rubromarginata is a cross between viticella and flammula, fortunately it is much tougher than flammula and the scent is superb, a lovely plant.