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Starting from scratch
Pablosammy
Posts: 2
Hi all, new here so please be kind! We've just moved into a new build near Lancaster with a 120m2 clay swamp out the back. The house builders have agreed to dig out the topsoil (if you can call it that!) to a depth of 300mm, install another land drain (they tell me there is one already, but the soil is so impermeable that it is totally ineffective), and replace with better topsoil. I don't trust then to do the job properly. I'm tempted to get them to excavate and install the new land drain, and then leave it so I can do the job myself or at least get a professional to do it for me. The only problem is I don't know how! Will it be best to pack some kind of aggregate around the land drains to stop them blocking up? If so, what size and grade? After that, what should I do to make up the 300mm? I'm tempted to turf the whole lot for the time being, and slowly customise the garden as we can afford each little project. Do I just lay 300 mm of proper topsoil, or do I need a sub layer of aggregate or sand to aid drainage? I also believe I need to mix in some organic material and fertiliser to the topsoil before rolling out turf? Finally, we want a section of wildflower turf, and that needs poor quality soil. Would it be ok on unfertilised turf topsoil, or does it need even worse soil? Thanks for any advice!
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Posts
land drains should have at least 75mm of aggregate on every side (top, bottom and both sides) to work properly.
any soil you get you should look at before it is put down, I would get the contractors to do it (sounds like they're paying for it) - just check the quality before they dump it. it should be fairly sandy to get a good lawn on top of brick clay.
I wouldn't add fertilizer to the top soil, i'd add it on the surface and rake it in before turf is laid or seed is sown.
We had a heavy clay at our allotment and sadly clay is very fertile if a little unworkable and may be too rich for wild plants. At the allotment we added over 200 25 litre bags of horse manure(free from local stables) and a 200KG of sharp sand in one area . This was to improve its drainage and improve the clay to a more useable soil. I would say we have had a great success as water didnt gather on the surface any more but when it dried the soil stayed damper for longer than any other. no idea about land drains, only about improving clay
Sounds to me with the space you have to think big, and start planning where you want your trees, maybe a copse or two (or three). Trees will keep your 'patch' on the DRIER side, give wind protection, and with a shrubbery or two a few 'microclimates' to play with. Obviously read up on trees, ultimate heights, how much shade you'll fortunately or not end up with in 10 years time. Birches are an obvious starting point, maybe a Sorbus vilmorinii, a crab apple, even stuff that goes into native hedges if you're wanting wildlife (please do). There's plenty of shrubs for wildlife, bees like deutzias, buddleias, cotoneasters, pyracanthas . . . . Them where you have a bit of sunny grass left a wildflower meadow, to cut once or twice a year. And finally a long sunny bee border with plenty of nepetas, oregano, echinops, veronica, stachys, chives ........ you may even want a patio to sit and watch the friends you've invited to your feast.