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Fruit Cage

I have had this fruit cage up the back of my garden since I moved into the property 6 years ago. So I have no idea how long it has been in before that. Initially each spot had 1 strawberry plant in it, I reduced this down after a couple of years to every second hole as the plants were getting old.

About 2 years ago I planted new strawberry plants however they were not fully successful. Now this year I am looking at going for early and late strawberries but before I decide this I need to work out how to fix this part of the garden.

Is there anything I can do to improve this plot other than ripping it all up and turning it over as it does seem to be set well in place and would take a lot of effort to move it.

I have thought about a taller fruit cage as getting the netting over this wooden structure and walking through it hunched over does start to become a pain. However the main thing that is putting me off is the cost.

Any ideas welcome image

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  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 24,036

    Strawberries don't always do well when planted again in the same place, but it helps to dig in some compost and manure.

    I find that fabric very useful in the veg garden, it lets in water and air keeps in the warmth for early crops, stops the soil drying out in high summer and keeps down weeds. But I hate it in flower beds. The one not to use is sheets of black plastic.

    Dordogne and Norfolk. Clay in Dordogne, sandy in Norfolk.
  • Aster2Aster2 Posts: 629

    Interesting! I don't like landscape fabric because it looks awful IMO, but have never thought about the soil condition. What about strawberry mats, Verdun? They don't cover all the soil, just the patch around each plant.

  • Aster2Aster2 Posts: 629

    OK, thanks! image I'll try to find straw - I think pet shops are supposed to sell it.

  • Steve 309Steve 309 Posts: 2,753

    Straw is traditional but slugs hide under it - mats are supposed to be better.  I've made them out of old cardboard boxes before.  One advantage is that you can lift them to get the slugs but leave the slugivorous beetles.  A friendly farmer will probably be only too glad to get rid of some straw, if you opt for that.

    The plants can go a fair bit closer than in the photo, but they will strew themselves about (hence the name, incidentally).

    I agree about moving them around - every three years.  I'd have some other soft fruit in rows (permanent) and the strawberries in between, or on the south side.

  • Aster2Aster2 Posts: 629

    Thanks, Steve!

  • Take everything up and double dig the plot, digging in lots of manure/compost. Replant the strawberries in a good mix of compost, sand, organic fertilizer and anything else you feel they need in your soil. Surrounding the roots with this will be a barrier to soil sickness as you are effectively planting each plant in fresh soil. It also helps that you are turning over the plot and bringing deeper soil to the surface. Only replant the very best plants that have NO sign of disease or completely new plants.  I have stopped using straw as in wet weather it encourages disease but I had mice living in it one year and eating all my strawberries !! Has anyone else had mice taking strawberries ?

     

     

     

  • Steve 309Steve 309 Posts: 2,753

    North American tree rats (aka grey squirrels) took them ALL off before they were ripe one year.  And before I'd even put the straw down!

    That rejuvenation of the soil is an excellent idea, Mike.  Lot of work though.  strawberries do love compost; most soft fruits are woodland plants so they like leaf mould too.

    I'd have a double row of summer raspberries and a couple of redcurrants and a whitecurrant at the north end, then a row each of blackcurants and gooseberries, and strawberries at the south end.  Whole cage six feet high with permanent wire sides and a soft top that is rolled out only when it's needed.  The autmn raspberries can go outside, since the birds seem to be less interested in them.

    Well, I can dream, can't I??image

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