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Talkback: Frost and potatoes

Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
in Talkback
Hi there on the suject of potatoes,suggestions please earlies mids or lates with slug resistance,ive found personal experiance/advice goes a lot further than seed merchants patter.
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  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    Can potatoes/peelings go on a compost heep, someone told me (a novice) not to put them
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    My nieghbour has an umbrella plant, he has just moved here from a flat into a bunglaow, he has the plant by the front door, the plant is 7ft high, and is beautiful but it seems to be dropping its leaves, I think its because its to near the front door and is getting blasts of cold air, can you tell what it may be, some of the leaves are withering too. please help him he loves this plant thank you
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    Can someone advise me as to which poatoes are best for a supposed blighth infected plot. I was allocated this plot in November 08 following it being unworked for 3 years - but was told that it had had "blight" on it in previous years. How long does blight last? Is it a permanent thing ? I am totally "green" on this topic. Heeeeeeeeelp PLEASE!
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    We're always being told how we can grow potatoes in plastic bags/large pots on the patio but how can you buy two or three seed potatoes without buying a large bag of them?
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    hi i dont understand the big hipe about this winter, this is what winter used to be like in the uk its only in the last few years we have had warm winters, we need to remember that this is what the uk winters where like
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    Best slug resistant potatoes are Kestrel which are secound early, Romano and harmony are maincrops and are good aswell.
    Best blight resistant potatoes Sarpo Mira,Cara,Valor,Markies.
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    Mags
    A plot doesn't get blight. It's not soil borne. Blight happens in August only when the weather conditions are correct - warm and wet. Hence the problems the last two years. If you don't want to spray - try the Sarpo types of potatoes that have some resistance. BUt if you plant earlies you can avoid the main period when blight attacks. Grow your tomatoes in the greenhouse too or just risk it as I did last year.
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    I must agree with Chiswickian - the best thing to do if you're worried about blight is to plant early varieties so you've got them lifted and safely tucked away before the blight strikes.
    I have tried the Sarpo varieties - but not in a year when blight was bad on my plot so I can't vouch for their resistance!
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    Pippa - putting rotting potatoes on your compost heap won't do the heap any favours unless you like an unholy smell. Put them in a black bin liner, tie securely and put it in your wheelie bin just before they come to collect. You will also prevent any disease from being put back into the soil which is why peelings are also not recommended especially bought ones.

    When persistant daytime frost dropping to below -5degC at night is forecast, the average shed doesn't provide adequate protection if the potatoes are just in a hessian or paper sack. Being mainly water, potatoes attract the frost and need a lot of airy thermal protection.
  • Gardeners' World Web UserGardeners' World Web User Posts: 17,147
    Aah but you see I have more than one composting area and there are places I canout things that produce horrendous smells, never fear!

    As to blight the Sarpo Mira and Axona potatoes are extraordinarily blight resistant and I have grown them surrounded by rows of blight-hit spuds of other varieties, no problem. As well as earlier lifting, just keep the shears at hand - if our crops are hit we promptly remove all the haulms that are hit or suspect and then burn them. Little risk of the spores having been washed down in to the soil to infect the tubers - it works a treat.The crop can then be lifted asap with great results, you can even afford to allow a little delay before lifting as long as you do not irrigate and there is no rain.
    PG
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