I purchased an array of syringes from eBay last year for lethal injection experiments on certain types of weeds. Many worked miracles, some were absolute failures.
Have tested a small syringe out recently on a patch of bindweed that has been a major problem for years in an area that is impossible to spray due to it strangling its way through a bed of low-lying perennial plants, so incredibly difficult to brush without jeopardising these plants.
Have to say, 'shooting up' bindweed stems near ground level with a miniscule amount of strong Glyphosate is an incredibly efficient and effective way to send it back into the ground.
A warning though.... don't try this at home as the process would send the Elf 'n' Safety Brigate into fits! But DO try this at home if you have full body and face protection.
I knew someone who treated a small patch of knotweed with the injection method. Each stem given an injection of glyphosate several times during the first years growing season, came back the second and third years but weaker and the stems were distorted. Continued to inject into the stems on each years new growth until it was gone. I think it took about 5 years before it gave up completely but they have been knotweed free ever since.
To see a world in a grain of sand and heaven in a wild flower Hold infinity in the palm of your hand and eternity in an hour.
Well, if you're trying not to use weedkillers, you could try a salt solution or paste. I did this to kill off ground elder. I cut it down as low as possible. Then mixed enough salt & water to form a spreadable paste and spread that over the bit of stump. No signs of life since.
I guess for bindweed you could follow the advice of putting in a cane for it to latch onto, put an inverted cut off plastic bottle top over the cane and then pour some salt solution directly where the plant emerges from the ground.
Well, if you're trying not to use weedkillers, you could try a salt solution or paste. I did this to kill off ground elder. I cut it down as low as possible. Then mixed enough salt & water to form a spreadable paste and spread that over the bit of stump. No signs of life since.
I guess for bindweed you could follow the advice of putting in a cane for it to latch onto, put an inverted cut off plastic bottle top over the cane and then pour some salt solution directly where the plant emerges from the ground.
It's a novel approach but definitely worth a shot and I'll certainly give it a try.. A banned weedkiller that is sodium chlorate is very similar in chemical composition to salt but was somewhat explosive, hence why it was withdrawn.
Anything that's natural (or close to it) has got to be better for the environment than complex molecular weedkillers. It would be hypocritical for me as an advocate of using weedkiller to dismiss their benefits as they are infinitely more successful than trying to dig out weeds that refuse to be dug out. But if something natural was available, then it surely must be better for wildlife and human health too.
ive just taken on an allotment which is completely infested with bindweed (it's currently October).
i sprayed the whole allotment with Gallup 360, and waited a week for it to take effect.
I have covered the worst area (with the most surface level shoots) with a very large tarp, surrounded by canes. I'm hoping to trick the bindweed to grow up the canes and spray the shoots as they emerge in the Spring.
I've also started to dig a bit of land on the allotment which appeared to have no bindweed, but the soil is full of roots. I've dug out several beds and deposited the clay/bindweed soil combo within 2 large sheets of builder's damp proof membrane.
Does anyone know how long the roots need to be starved of light and moisture before they die?
i was hoping that, by depriving the tubers of moisture, and any new growth of light, that the roots would become depleted of energy and eventually cease to grow.
i guess I chose a terrible plot. I thought that bindweed would be preferable to the alternatives on offer, which were covered with dock, brambles and nettles.
I'll continue to spray the weeds in the spring. Hopefully, at some point, I will be able to grow something on the plot, other than bindweed!????
I agree with Hosta ... I've cleared a garden of rampant bindweed by using glyphosate. You must use it when it's in active growth and leave it long enough to take effect on the roots before digging it out. Then leave it alone and wait for any regrowth which you treat the same ... a couple of applications should do it as long as you keep you eyes open for the occasional invader.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Posts
I purchased an array of syringes from eBay last year for lethal injection experiments on certain types of weeds. Many worked miracles, some were absolute failures.
Have tested a small syringe out recently on a patch of bindweed that has been a major problem for years in an area that is impossible to spray due to it strangling its way through a bed of low-lying perennial plants, so incredibly difficult to brush without jeopardising these plants.
Have to say, 'shooting up' bindweed stems near ground level with a miniscule amount of strong Glyphosate is an incredibly efficient and effective way to send it back into the ground.
A warning though.... don't try this at home as the process would send the Elf 'n' Safety Brigate into fits! But DO try this at home if you have full body and face protection.
Last edited: 03 May 2017 20:02:01
I knew someone who treated a small patch of knotweed with the injection method. Each stem given an injection of glyphosate several times during the first years growing season, came back the second and third years but weaker and the stems were distorted. Continued to inject into the stems on each years new growth until it was gone. I think it took about 5 years before it gave up completely but they have been knotweed free ever since.
Well, if you're trying not to use weedkillers, you could try a salt solution or paste. I did this to kill off ground elder. I cut it down as low as possible. Then mixed enough salt & water to form a spreadable paste and spread that over the bit of stump. No signs of life since.
I guess for bindweed you could follow the advice of putting in a cane for it to latch onto, put an inverted cut off plastic bottle top over the cane and then pour some salt solution directly where the plant emerges from the ground.
It's a novel approach but definitely worth a shot and I'll certainly give it a try.. A banned weedkiller that is sodium chlorate is very similar in chemical composition to salt but was somewhat explosive, hence why it was withdrawn.
Anything that's natural (or close to it) has got to be better for the environment than complex molecular weedkillers. It would be hypocritical for me as an advocate of using weedkiller to dismiss their benefits as they are infinitely more successful than trying to dig out weeds that refuse to be dug out. But if something natural was available, then it surely must be better for wildlife and human health too.
Hi,
ive just taken on an allotment which is completely infested with bindweed (it's currently October).
i sprayed the whole allotment with Gallup 360, and waited a week for it to take effect.
I have covered the worst area (with the most surface level shoots) with a very large tarp, surrounded by canes. I'm hoping to trick the bindweed to grow up the canes and spray the shoots as they emerge in the Spring.
I've also started to dig a bit of land on the allotment which appeared to have no bindweed, but the soil is full of roots. I've dug out several beds and deposited the clay/bindweed soil combo within 2 large sheets of builder's damp proof membrane.
Does anyone know how long the roots need to be starved of light and moisture before they die?
thanks
kate ?
roots live underground, they don't need light to survive.
Thanks to you both for your replies.
i was hoping that, by depriving the tubers of moisture, and any new growth of light, that the roots would become depleted of energy and eventually cease to grow.
i guess I chose a terrible plot. I thought that bindweed would be preferable to the alternatives on offer, which were covered with dock, brambles and nettles.
I'll continue to spray the weeds in the spring. Hopefully, at some point, I will be able to grow something on the plot, other than bindweed!????
I'd stick with the glyphosate and canes method.
I cleared a 15 year old yew hedge of bindweed using that method.
I agree with Hosta ... I've cleared a garden of rampant bindweed by using glyphosate. You must use it when it's in active growth and leave it long enough to take effect on the roots before digging it out. Then leave it alone and wait for any regrowth which you treat the same ... a couple of applications should do it as long as you keep you eyes open for the occasional invader.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.