As one fairy to another () this is an old thread - I don't think Gold1locks posts here any more but this will bump the post up for further help.
If the grass is in a really bad state you might need to start again,but if you level it out by putting more topspoil/compost in the holes and reseeding once you've done that it will help the appearance and the surface. You could do that now if the weather's favourable. If you use a weed and feed product in spring it will help with the weeds. There are plenty on the market so just pick one that suits your budget and conditions. If the ground's compacted you get cracks in dry spells of weather so aerating will help with drainage - you can do that by sticking a fork in all over the surface to a depth of 4/6" and brushing coarse sand or grit into the holes. Regular mowing through the season - without scalping - will encourage good grass growth.
Even poor lawns will benefit from a bit of this kind of tlc.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Hi James, I rotovate the soil on my allotment every year as it is very heavy clay. It is basically (as others before have said) breaking down the soil structure from clods into a much finer more "friable" consistency. However, this is only done after thoroughly weeding the area first (i use a large garden fork) which opens the surface of the soil to enable the rotovator to get right in there and do it's job and importantly also allows for aeration.
The rotovation of the tines smashes the large lumps into smaller lumps which allows me to incorporate sharp sand, grit and bulky organic matter ('BOM' for short). That's it in a nutshell!
I had about 30ft of garden covered in weeds now after weed killers and digging I have only couple of dozen weeds coming up annually. I have just put weed killer down again and am thinking of rotivating few times then sowing grass seeds for a new lawn as its been weeds and mud up there for years. Am worried If do it weeds will come back with The new grass? Any advice
I am on the same page as Verdun. I believe that unless absolutely unavoidable rotavating shouldn't be considered. It destroys the natural structure, worm tunnels, fungal networks, etc. in the soil. I too just fork or dig out weeds the good old fashioned way. Using mulch helps keep the weeds down anyway. I spread homemade compost on the soil surface and I've noticed that it quickly gets incorporated into the soil by nature. There is no real need to dig the organic matter in in my opinion.
Posts
As one fairy to another (
) this is an old thread - I don't think Gold1locks posts here any more but this will bump the post up for further help.
If the grass is in a really bad state you might need to start again,but if you level it out by putting more topspoil/compost in the holes and reseeding once you've done that it will help the appearance and the surface. You could do that now if the weather's favourable. If you use a weed and feed product in spring it will help with the weeds. There are plenty on the market so just pick one that suits your budget and conditions. If the ground's compacted you get cracks in dry spells of weather so aerating will help with drainage - you can do that by sticking a fork in all over the surface to a depth of 4/6" and brushing coarse sand or grit into the holes. Regular mowing through the season - without scalping - will encourage good grass growth.
Even poor lawns will benefit from a bit of this kind of tlc.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Hi James, I rotovate the soil on my allotment every year as it is very heavy clay. It is basically (as others before have said) breaking down the soil structure from clods into a much finer more "friable" consistency. However, this is only done after thoroughly weeding the area first (i use a large garden fork) which opens the surface of the soil to enable the rotovator to get right in there and do it's job and importantly also allows for aeration.
The rotovation of the tines smashes the large lumps into smaller lumps which allows me to incorporate sharp sand, grit and bulky organic matter ('BOM' for short). That's it in a nutshell!
I am on the same page as Verdun. I believe that unless absolutely unavoidable rotavating shouldn't be considered. It destroys the natural structure, worm tunnels, fungal networks, etc. in the soil. I too just fork or dig out weeds the good old fashioned way. Using mulch helps keep the weeds down anyway. I spread homemade compost on the soil surface and I've noticed that it quickly gets incorporated into the soil by nature. There is no real need to dig the organic matter in in my opinion.