I've always used a standard MPC Louise, with no problems, but I've never sown in autumn, only this time of year or directly outside later on in spring.
David will keep you right - he's the Sweet Pea king here!
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I've had this on file for yonks, I thought I'd post it so those interested in growing those long stemmed, exhibition quality sweet peas can see how it's done.
"How to grow using the cordon method:
This is the method favoured by exhibition growers and anyone wanting to grow top quality flowers. It requires more time with a commensurate improvement in blooms. You will find that you will have fewer flowers using this method than growing naturally but they will be of much better quality.
After planting out leave your plants for around 4 to 6 weeks to settle. After this time, depending on the local weather conditions, they will probably be at least 12 inches (30cm) tall. Restrict the growth to one shoot by cutting or nipping out the extra shoots and tie the remaining shoot loosely to its support. You might want to use metal rings to tie in your plants as these tend to be quickest overall but anything will do. Continue to nip out side shoots which form at every leaf axil, tying in the plant as necessary. You should also remove the twisty tendrils seen at the end of the pairs of leaves which form up the stem. It is rather like growing tomatoes on the cordon. Do not allow flowers to set seed. Most growers cut them as they open which means one stem per plant every day or every other day, depending on weather conditions. Many growers will also nip out the early blooms as they form to further strengthen their plants, doing so until the blooms start to form with four florets per stem or until June.
Growing on the cordon means that all the plant's energy is concentrated into producing better flowers and growth of the single branch. This means that your plants will soon reach the top of your canes. You will then need to 'layer' them. Do not confuse this with propagation – all this means is to drop your plants down to the bottom of the canes so that they can grow up again. You may need to do this more than once during the season. The easiest way to layer is to undo the ties and gently lay your plants horizontally along the rows. They will naturally turn upwards in a day or two and you can then tie them in to the nearest cane and continue as before. You may choose to tie train them up a cane further along the row straight away. Take care not to snap the plant as they can be very brittle. Choose a warm day and make any bends gradual."
I would just add to my earlier post, the method for growing cut flowers for the house is known as the 'decorative' method.
One thing here to be careful of, is remembering that sweet peas grow to 8ft + tall and therefore provide adequate support to account for this....I've seen silly little obelisks of little more than a metre tall (3' 3") being sold as sweet pea obelisks.
Thank you David for the cordon method info.I tried it about 30 years ago when I had my first garden.I had some success as far as I remember.but I was very inexperienced in the garden then.Since then I haven't had a suitable garden for growing them till a couple of years ago. I had decided I would try it again this year,after using the decorative method [didn't know it was called this] so it couldn't have come at a better time.
Here's a couple of pictures of my plants now.They were sown the first week in December.They;ve been in a cold greenhouse.Do they look ok.
I have just planted mine from the seeds I collected in October. This is the first time I have grown from seed I planted half in seed compost and the other half in general compost and they have both begun to show. Bit of an experiment but so far so good for both. Both are on the back bedroom windowsill so getting the rays and heat from the house. Once they come through do they need the cold then to continue growth. I do have an unheated GH, so could move them into there. Any recommendations.
I sowed my seeds on 7th February. So far in the last week 8 out of 36 have germinated. They are on a windowsill in a room which is a steady 15°. Do you think the others will germinate? Should I sow more?
I've been looking back over this thread to see what others have done and I find it a bit confusing the way people use sow and plant. I thought seeds are sown and plants are planted. I kept thinking people were planting their baby sweet pea plants when they were sowing their seeds!
Dordogne and Norfolk. Clay in Dordogne, sandy in Norfolk.
Susan - I must have said several times since the start of this thread that sweet peas are really hardy (that's why they are designated (HA) Hardy Annuals and just need a little germination warmth before being transferred to cool conditions.....so your plan is sensible.
Lizzie - 7 to 21 days is normally the time it takes for SP seed to germinate, so I would guess yours are doing okay.....In my experience, those geminating in 7 days have been kept too warm and will most likely be leggy. Those germinating in 21 (or more) make for much stronger plants.
I agree, incorrect use of the terms 'planting' & 'sowing' does lead to confusion, but that applies to other threads too.....hope I haven't been guilty.
That may well be me getting planting and sowing confused, apologies if it was and hope I can be excused as a 'newbie'
Anyway, in the next couple of days I will be SOWING some more seeds and PLANTING my seedlings, David when do the seedlings need to be repotted to bigger pots?
"David when do the seedlings need to be repotted to bigger pots?"
The idea is to sow the seed in pots deep enough for them to stay in until they are planted out.....that's certainly how it is if you're using those black polythene tubes from Eagle SPs.
Perhaps worth noting here, that sweet pea seedlings don't like root disturbance.
Posts
I've always used a standard MPC Louise, with no problems, but I've never sown in autumn, only this time of year or directly outside later on in spring.
David will keep you right - he's the Sweet Pea king here!
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I've had this on file for yonks, I thought I'd post it so those interested in growing those long stemmed, exhibition quality sweet peas can see how it's done.
"How to grow using the cordon method:
This is the method favoured by exhibition growers and anyone wanting to grow top quality flowers. It requires more time with a commensurate improvement in blooms. You will find that you will have fewer flowers using this method than growing naturally but they will be of much better quality.
After planting out leave your plants for around 4 to 6 weeks to settle. After this time, depending on the local weather conditions, they will probably be at least 12 inches (30cm) tall. Restrict the growth to one shoot by cutting or nipping out the extra shoots and tie the remaining shoot loosely to its support. You might want to use metal rings to tie in your plants as these tend to be quickest overall but anything will do. Continue to nip out side shoots which form at every leaf axil, tying in the plant as necessary. You should also remove the twisty tendrils seen at the end of the pairs of leaves which form up the stem. It is rather like growing tomatoes on the cordon. Do not allow flowers to set seed. Most growers cut them as they open which means one stem per plant every day or every other day, depending on weather conditions. Many growers will also nip out the early blooms as they form to further strengthen their plants, doing so until the blooms start to form with four florets per stem or until June.
Growing on the cordon means that all the plant's energy is concentrated into producing better flowers and growth of the single branch. This means that your plants will soon reach the top of your canes. You will then need to 'layer' them. Do not confuse this with propagation – all this means is to drop your plants down to the bottom of the canes so that they can grow up again. You may need to do this more than once during the season. The easiest way to layer is to undo the ties and gently lay your plants horizontally along the rows. They will naturally turn upwards in a day or two and you can then tie them in to the nearest cane and continue as before. You may choose to tie train them up a cane further along the row straight away. Take care not to snap the plant as they can be very brittle. Choose a warm day and make any bends gradual."
Growing for cut flowers is much easier.
You're welcome, Edd...thought it would be totally boring to most, but relevant if this calls itself a sweet pea thread.
I would just add to my earlier post, the method for growing cut flowers for the house is known as the 'decorative' method.
One thing here to be careful of, is remembering that sweet peas grow to 8ft + tall and therefore provide adequate support to account for this....I've seen silly little obelisks of little more than a metre tall (3' 3") being sold as sweet pea obelisks.
Thank you David for the cordon method info.I tried it about 30 years ago when I had my first garden.I had some success as far as I remember.but I was very inexperienced in the garden then.Since then I haven't had a suitable garden for growing them till a couple of years ago. I had decided I would try it again this year,after using the decorative method [didn't know it was called this] so it couldn't have come at a better time.
Here's a couple of pictures of my plants now.They were sown the first week in December.They;ve been in a cold greenhouse.Do they look ok.
I have just planted mine from the seeds I collected in October. This is the first time I have grown from seed I planted half in seed compost and the other half in general compost and they have both begun to show. Bit of an experiment but so far so good for both. Both are on the back bedroom windowsill so getting the rays and heat from the house. Once they come through do they need the cold then to continue growth. I do have an unheated GH, so could move them into there. Any recommendations.
I sowed my seeds on 7th February. So far in the last week 8 out of 36 have germinated. They are on a windowsill in a room which is a steady 15°. Do you think the others will germinate? Should I sow more?
I've been looking back over this thread to see what others have done and I find it a bit confusing the way people use sow and plant. I thought seeds are sown and plants are planted. I kept thinking people were planting their baby sweet pea plants when they were sowing their seeds!
Susan - I must have said several times since the start of this thread that sweet peas are really hardy (that's why they are designated (HA) Hardy Annuals and just need a little germination warmth before being transferred to cool conditions.....so your plan is sensible.
Lizzie - 7 to 21 days is normally the time it takes for SP seed to germinate, so I would guess yours are doing okay.....In my experience, those geminating in 7 days have been kept too warm and will most likely be leggy. Those germinating in 21 (or more) make for much stronger plants.
I agree, incorrect use of the terms 'planting' & 'sowing' does lead to confusion, but that applies to other threads too.....hope I haven't been guilty.
That may well be me getting planting and sowing confused, apologies if it was and hope I can be excused as a 'newbie'
Anyway, in the next couple of days I will be SOWING some more seeds and PLANTING my seedlings, David when do the seedlings need to be repotted to bigger pots?
"David when do the seedlings need to be repotted to bigger pots?"
The idea is to sow the seed in pots deep enough for them to stay in until they are planted out.....that's certainly how it is if you're using those black polythene tubes from Eagle SPs.
Perhaps worth noting here, that sweet pea seedlings don't like root disturbance.