I really like your suggestion, could I ask what is best way to plant - for example, should I plant 3 diffreent flowers next to each other - a rose next to a clematis next to a honeysuckle and repeat this again across the area ? or should I plant in blocks - all the roses together, clematis together etc. Do I need to be concerned that one species may smother another ? how many of each plant would you think I need ?
Not knowing what time of day the pic was taken, but as it is shady, I can advise that I planted a bobby james rose along my workshop wall that is about 50' long,
bobby was along the wall around the corner and heading towards the fence on the other side of the field. I cut him back to 4' last year, and again he is nearly along to the end of the wall. He is growing along with a Hydrangea petiolaris, which is much slower to cover an area, but of course that is self supporting. There are various Clematis that use Bobby as a frame to pull themselves up by.
Dom, given their vigour, I would have though one of each would do the job. It may take them a season or two to get there but there will be less refreeing afterwards.
I would give each plant its own separate planting hole and initial support to get it started so they don't compete for nutrients and I'd plant them spaced at 2 or 3 feet apart at the open end of the wall away from the rain and light shade of that tree/shrub to the left.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
I said I better show you the latest pics of my wall, I have removed the tree, rotavated the whole garden and put in new grass seed. I measured the length of the area I wish to cover and its 33 ft, so if I am looking out my kitchen window back up the garden I should probably plant by flowering season Clematis first, rose in the middle and honeysuckle farthest away from the house - would that be ok ? How much room do I need to leave between the wall and the hole for the plant ? I would like to plant as near as possible to the wall to maintain the lawn ?
Planting too close to the wall will mean the plants struggle for water and nutrients. It woul dbe best all round if you can dig out a border at least 3' deep and plant other stuff between the climbers to hide the base of the wall but the first job would be to get the holes drilled to take the vine eyes and then stretch and tension strong wires between them.
Then you would either prepare planting holes or dig the border and start planting along it. I reckon you have room for a big ramblming rose planted in teh middle of the big wall. Kiftsgate (creamy white) or Paul's Himalayan Musk (lilac) will cover 9 metres heigh and 6 to 9 metres wide depending on training and both will provide perfume while in flower and then hips. I woul dthen a plant the clamtis montana half way between the middle and one end and the honeysuckle half way between te middle and the other end. You could also train smaller ramblers along the lower wall - see her for scented options, colours and sizes - http://www.oldroses.co.uk/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22
Plant them at least 2' 6" out from the wall and bury any graft union on teh roses at least 2 inches deep, sloping the plant back towards the wall. As the shoots grow, tie them in as horizontally as possible to encourage flowering shoots. make sure ties are loose enough for the stems to move in the wind and not get rubbed and damaged against the wires.
I would then advise perennial plants and bulbs to fill the remaining gaps and extend the season of interest - snowdrops, narcissus and hellebores for winter and spring interest followed by hardy geraniums, aquilegias, phlox, heleniums, achillieas and any manner of perennial to take you through from spring to autumn and hide the base of the wall.
After a couple of seasons you'll need to take out a third of the main rose stems and any dead stems every spring to maintain growth and vigour. The clematis and honeysuckle will only need pruning to keep within bounds.
.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
You are really looking for a self clinging climber. Montana, Wisteria, Russian Vine, Jasmines, are all non-clinging and will need support - a lot of support all over the wall and wire is expensive. I also think you need to go for an evergreen or for most of the year you will be looking at the bare wall.
Self clinging climbers and evergreens are Hedera (Ivies), some Hydrangea and Virgina Creepers. A mix of an evergreen Ivy and Creeper will look good and not that expenses. Should cover the wall quite quickly as well.
When the self clingers are established you can add the like of Clematis - they can piggy back on them.
If I were you I would clean the wall with a pressure washer before you do anything.
Anybody that suggests Russian Vine needs a severe kicking. It is a terrible thug and your neighbour will not be pleased. Ivy is not a good choice either.
Posts
Thanks Obelixx,
I really like your suggestion, could I ask what is best way to plant - for example, should I plant 3 diffreent flowers next to each other - a rose next to a clematis next to a honeysuckle and repeat this again across the area ? or should I plant in blocks - all the roses together, clematis together etc. Do I need to be concerned that one species may smother another ? how many of each plant would you think I need ?
Akebia quinata and Clematis Etoile violette would be good
Pam x
Not knowing what time of day the pic was taken, but as it is shady, I can advise that I planted a bobby james rose along my workshop wall that is about 50' long,
bobby was along the wall around the corner and heading towards the fence on the other side of the field. I cut him back to 4' last year, and again he is nearly along to the end of the wall. He is growing along with a Hydrangea petiolaris, which is much slower to cover an area, but of course that is self supporting. There are various Clematis that use Bobby as a frame to pull themselves up by.
Dom, given their vigour, I would have though one of each would do the job. It may take them a season or two to get there but there will be less refreeing afterwards.
I would give each plant its own separate planting hole and initial support to get it started so they don't compete for nutrients and I'd plant them spaced at 2 or 3 feet apart at the open end of the wall away from the rain and light shade of that tree/shrub to the left.
Hi obelixx,
I said I better show you the latest pics of my wall, I have removed the tree, rotavated the whole garden and put in new grass seed. I measured the length of the area I wish to cover and its 33 ft, so if I am looking out my kitchen window back up the garden I should probably plant by flowering season Clematis first, rose in the middle and honeysuckle farthest away from the house - would that be ok ? How much room do I need to leave between the wall and the hole for the plant ? I would like to plant as near as possible to the wall to maintain the lawn ?
Planting too close to the wall will mean the plants struggle for water and nutrients. It woul dbe best all round if you can dig out a border at least 3' deep and plant other stuff between the climbers to hide the base of the wall but the first job would be to get the holes drilled to take the vine eyes and then stretch and tension strong wires between them.
Then you would either prepare planting holes or dig the border and start planting along it. I reckon you have room for a big ramblming rose planted in teh middle of the big wall. Kiftsgate (creamy white) or Paul's Himalayan Musk (lilac) will cover 9 metres heigh and 6 to 9 metres wide depending on training and both will provide perfume while in flower and then hips. I woul dthen a plant the clamtis montana half way between the middle and one end and the honeysuckle half way between te middle and the other end. You could also train smaller ramblers along the lower wall - see her for scented options, colours and sizes - http://www.oldroses.co.uk/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22
Plant them at least 2' 6" out from the wall and bury any graft union on teh roses at least 2 inches deep, sloping the plant back towards the wall. As the shoots grow, tie them in as horizontally as possible to encourage flowering shoots. make sure ties are loose enough for the stems to move in the wind and not get rubbed and damaged against the wires.
I would then advise perennial plants and bulbs to fill the remaining gaps and extend the season of interest - snowdrops, narcissus and hellebores for winter and spring interest followed by hardy geraniums, aquilegias, phlox, heleniums, achillieas and any manner of perennial to take you through from spring to autumn and hide the base of the wall.
After a couple of seasons you'll need to take out a third of the main rose stems and any dead stems every spring to maintain growth and vigour. The clematis and honeysuckle will only need pruning to keep within bounds.
.
Hi obelixx,
Thanks so much for all the fantastic advise - guess what I will be doing this weekend !!
Dom.
Have fun. Post a photo when it's planted up. Sorry about the typos.
You are really looking for a self clinging climber. Montana, Wisteria, Russian Vine, Jasmines, are all non-clinging and will need support - a lot of support all over the wall and wire is expensive. I also think you need to go for an evergreen or for most of the year you will be looking at the bare wall.
Self clinging climbers and evergreens are Hedera (Ivies), some Hydrangea and Virgina Creepers. A mix of an evergreen Ivy and Creeper will look good and not that expenses. Should cover the wall quite quickly as well.
When the self clingers are established you can add the like of Clematis - they can piggy back on them.
If I were you I would clean the wall with a pressure washer before you do anything.
Anybody that suggests Russian Vine needs a severe kicking. It is a terrible thug and your neighbour will not be pleased. Ivy is not a good choice either.