I took down a big leylandii hedge last year, 3m high 1.5m width by cutting them down at soil level. The soil was rubbish so i double dug all of it with manure grit and screened topsoil. The existing roots i cut with lopers close to the stumps and pulled. It began to be quite fun. I have been told the stumps of leylandi will rot in about 5years. I planted quite a few rose climbers which have thrived , however I did have to spend the rest of the year with a watering can to help them establish. Hope this helps
Weemaw, you could try viburnum as they are evergreen, photinia, solanum (I got given one of these as a stick and now its 8 feet high and 8 feet wide). If you don't mind no leaves in winter you could go for cotinus, cornus or sambuccus.
I've used stump killer on a beech hedge, once all the branches were cut off and the trunks cut to ground level, which worked, but they were no more than 3-4 inches in diameter.
Hi, another stump question. I just took out a big Leylandia hedge (6 trees some 30 feet high, in a small garden) but the stumps couldn't be removed as there is no access to the back garden except through a narrow part of the house or through the neighbours' garden, and there's a limit to how much I'm prepared to inconvenience the neighbours, I've only been here a year. So, I have the six stumps, at ground level, and a largish bed mostly covered with leaf-fall. I'd like to plant a native hedge and use the rest of the bed for veg. I shall mulch it energetically but are the stumps going to prevent this plan working? And if so is there any solution which doesn't involve bulky machinery, Schwarzenegger muscles or vicious chemicals?
Here goes....novice gardener here .. We recently moved and have a row of 7 no.s - 15ft high half dead Leylandia trees at the foot of our sloped garden on the eastern boundary. We want to remove them and replace with a Laurel hedge. The problem is they run along the boundary to just over halfway across on the right and it stops where a small round paved area exists to the left (which is too close to the fence to allow for planting). Our hedge runs 3/4 of the way across which looks out of balance.
How will a new hedge look If it doesn't run the whole way across the rear boundary. Any ideas on how to make this boundary look better? Our soil is neutral to slightly acidic. Rhododendrons, Red Robin, heather and fuschia seem to grow well in our neighbourhood.
What is the best way to remove these trees? Should we leave them as stumps and plant around them? It's March now and we found some 5-6 ft high Laurels on sale but is it too late to plant them? We want a hedge fast. Should we wait until November when the soil is warmer? The little paved area needs something behind it to cover the fence and smell fragrant. We have large fir trees in our neighbours garden beyond the Leylandia that are 50 ft high and block the eastern sun from our garden. They hide the view of a lot of play equipment. We are concerned about them possibly getting blown down and hitting our house as well. Anyone out there who has had to deal with getting a neighbour to top their trees? Will topped fir trees look bad? Too many questions, sorry!
We've done the same here, but due to the buildings and walls around the garden the contractor left stumps about 10ft high which he assured us could quickly be covered by planting climbing flowering shrubs.
Rubbish - nothing would grow. Then someone gave me a Russian Vine (mile a minute plant is its other name. DON'T plant one. It looks OK in mid summer when its covered by small white flowers, but the rest of the year its invasive in the extreme - and in winter its a mass of untidy bare twigs. And you can't kill it. Even cutting it down to the ground doesn't kill it, neither does Roundup.
To give some perspective - those stumps are twice my height and I am 5ft tall. (I can't manage to enlarge that pic - sorry.
Posts
I took down a big leylandii hedge last year, 3m high 1.5m width by cutting them down at soil level. The soil was rubbish so i double dug all of it with manure grit and screened topsoil. The existing roots i cut with lopers close to the stumps and pulled. It began to be quite fun
. I have been told the stumps of leylandi will rot in about 5years. I planted quite a few rose climbers which have thrived , however I did have to spend the rest of the year with a watering can to help them establish. Hope this helps
David, you need to start a new thread. Cathy has just answered the original question.
In the sticks near Peterborough
Weemaw, you could try viburnum as they are evergreen, photinia, solanum (I got given one of these as a stick and now its 8 feet high and 8 feet wide). If you don't mind no leaves in winter you could go for cotinus, cornus or sambuccus.
I've used stump killer on a beech hedge, once all the branches were cut off and the trunks cut to ground level, which worked, but they were no more than 3-4 inches in diameter.
2 years on. The hedge has been vibrant red since Christmas thickening out. We are keeping it to 6ft so easy to manage - lots of compliments.
Hi, another stump question. I just took out a big Leylandia hedge (6 trees some 30 feet high, in a small garden) but the stumps couldn't be removed as there is no access to the back garden except through a narrow part of the house or through the neighbours' garden, and there's a limit to how much I'm prepared to inconvenience the neighbours, I've only been here a year. So, I have the six stumps, at ground level, and a largish bed mostly covered with leaf-fall. I'd like to plant a native hedge and use the rest of the bed for veg. I shall mulch it energetically but are the stumps going to prevent this plan working? And if so is there any solution which doesn't involve bulky machinery, Schwarzenegger muscles or vicious chemicals?
Here goes....novice gardener here ..
We recently moved and have a row of 7 no.s - 15ft high half dead Leylandia trees at the foot of our sloped garden on the eastern boundary. We want to remove them and replace with a Laurel hedge. The problem is they run along the boundary to just over halfway across on the right and it stops where a small round paved area exists to the left (which is too close to the fence to allow for planting). Our hedge runs 3/4 of the way across which looks out of balance.
How will a new hedge look If it doesn't run the whole way across the rear boundary. Any ideas on how to make this boundary look better? Our soil is neutral to slightly acidic. Rhododendrons, Red Robin, heather and fuschia seem to grow well in our neighbourhood.
What is the best way to remove these trees? Should we leave them as stumps and plant around them? It's March now and we found some 5-6 ft high Laurels on sale but is it too late to plant them? We want a hedge fast. Should we wait until November when the soil is warmer? The little paved area needs something behind it to cover the fence and smell fragrant. We have large fir trees in our neighbours garden beyond the Leylandia that are 50 ft high and block the eastern sun from our garden. They hide the view of a lot of play equipment. We are concerned about them possibly getting blown down and hitting our house as well. Anyone out there who has had to deal with getting a neighbour to top their trees? Will topped fir trees look bad? Too many questions, sorry!
Last edited: 04 March 2017 16:59:37
Mockingbird, start a new thread, this one is old - that way more people will see it and be able to reply
We've done the same here, but due to the buildings and walls around the garden the contractor left stumps about 10ft high which he assured us could quickly be covered by planting climbing flowering shrubs.
Rubbish - nothing would grow. Then someone gave me a Russian Vine (mile a minute plant is its other name. DON'T plant one. It looks OK in mid summer when its covered by small white flowers, but the rest of the year its invasive in the extreme - and in winter its a mass of untidy bare twigs. And you can't kill it. Even cutting it down to the ground doesn't kill it, neither does Roundup.
To give some perspective - those stumps are twice my height and I am 5ft tall. (I can't manage to enlarge that pic - sorry.