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Growing Tomatoes in Pots

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  • SweetPea93SweetPea93 Posts: 446

    Nope, no indication of flowers, we aren't sure of the varieties because they were missing the label when they came in the post, it was a lucky dip selection... *sigh*

     

  • SweetPea93SweetPea93 Posts: 446
    Italophile wrote (see)

    SP93, not even the very first indications of flowers? Absolutely miniature versions that will develop? Some varieties will take longer than others. What varieties are they?

    In the meantime, how big are the pots? How warm does it get in the greenhouse?

    It's not too late to sow in terms of germination. The seeds should be sown no deeper than they are thick - which is to say, very shallow, just covered with mix. The mix should be kept damp, not wet, and the ideal temp for germination is in the 20sC, warmth preferably from underneath.

    I'm only new to gardening so they are in a plastic greenhouse, and I've no idea of the temperature, all I know is they've absolutely shot up in the past two weeks like rockets! They're in sizable pots, as for circumference I have no idea, but they are about the size of the pots young fruit trees come in when bought from the GC

  • ItalophileItalophile Posts: 1,731

    If the grafted one that's flowering is in the same greenhouse then it's probably not the conditions. The pots are okay, too, for the moment. You're just going to have to wait and see. The growth spurt suggests they shouldn't be far away.

  • SweetPea93SweetPea93 Posts: 446

    The grafted one is flowing and lives outside, hence my confusion.

  • ItalophileItalophile Posts: 1,731

    Ah, now I understand. Why aren't the others outside too?

  • SweetPea93SweetPea93 Posts: 446
    Because of the harsh weather we are having here. The grafted plant was bought last week from a GC already hardened, OH hasn't started the hardening off process as it's been nasty weather here.
  • ItalophileItalophile Posts: 1,731

    Okay. Anyway, I've never had a tomato plant that gets to to 60cm not produce flowers. Sometimes you get a runt that never really develops. It ends up on the compost heap.

    I don't know how long your growing season is but it might be too late to sow more seeds (in terms of getting fruit before the end of the season). In decent conditions you're looking at 6-8 weeks from sowing to planting out.

  • Bf206Bf206 Posts: 234

    Here's a tomato update from me for those who do / don't have a vague interest...

    They seem to have adapted well enough to life in the coldframe (2 weeks now; seeds sown indoors mid-April). I only plan to repot them one more time into their final 25 litre pots although not quite yet.

    I'll have to whittle this small forest down to about 12 plants though and I was thinking I should probably do that sooner rather than later before the coldframe gets too crowded . So, any hints / tips on how to spot the strongest plants? Best to look say for a thicker stem but not necessarily the tallest? The tallest ones are largely the seedlings that bolted a bit after germination but I've found in the past that even the spindliest plants buried deeply do just fine.

    Thank you!

    image

     

  • ItalophileItalophile Posts: 1,731

    Provided they're healthy, the spindly ones always eventually catch up. Given that, in your situation, I'd go for (a) the sturdiest that (b) are the darkest, healthiest green without any blemishes. Can you pass on the rejects to someone else to grow?

  • Simon KnottSimon Knott Posts: 115

    Hi Bf206, they are looking good. As you say, it's probably best to pick the more sturdy and not necessarily the tallest ones. Always a difficult choice! How many plants are you going to put in a 25 ltr pot?

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