MelspadeINNA MC wow 2 meters I wish we could let ours grow that tall over here I don't think we get enough warm sunny days over here. Thats probably why it says you can get 7kg per plant where I got my seeds.
philippa smith2 Hi yes by the sounds of it there big plants but that's OK as I haven't got a huge garden but its big enough to grow about 30- 40 plants without giving up to much space to grow all the other veg and fruit I grow. I really pack my garden with plants but I put the tallest at the back and the smallest up front so to maximize the sunlight to all the plants. Onions start up front and at the back will be the tomatoes not many weeds survive in my garden when everything is established lol. But everything produces well and it helps keep the soil warm in cool spells and cool during heatwaves it also keeps the moisture in during the worst droughts too. Its the first time tomatoes will be grown in my garden but I think they will do fine if we get some nice weather and it doesn't rain for months on end
Can someone tell me what leaders are I just saw an article that said Thirty days before last frost prune leaders to ripen. I know what suckers are but what are leaders? are these the tips of the side shoots?
Christopher, I grew Amish Paste years ago back in Sydney to try them out. They're a meaty but pretty bland variety, not a lot of juice. Best for use in sauces.
You only need a single, sturdy stake to support each plant. They come in all sorts these days, including aluminium. I stick to timber for sturdiness, and, for plants that I know to be big blokes, use 7' stakes. The bottom foot to 18" of it is driven into the soil for a solid anchor. For tying up, try to use something with a bit of give in it. Tying too tightly with a rigid material risks cutting into a stem as it grows and develops in size.
If you're thinking of saving seeds from one of your pure varieties, be aware of the potential for cross-pollination. If you've got plants adjacent to each other, and insect activity, cross-pollination is on the cards.
It's a good idea to "bag" the fruit you want to save seeds from. I buy packets of those ankle-length tights/stockings things. Cut off the bottom 3 or 4 inches so the toe-end creates the bag.
Select a truss of flowers. The key is to do this before any of the flowers open. Once open, they are vulnerable to foraging insects. Nip off any foliage on or around the truss that will end up inside the bag. Any foliage you leave will only grow inside the bag and crowd things.
Slip the bag over the truss, enclosing all the flowers, and tie it closed around the stem. Don't tie too tightly, just secure the bag to the stem. If you see any foliage developing inside the bag, slip it off and remove the foliage.
The bag only stays in place until you see that one or more of the flowers has set fruit. Once the fruit has set, there's no more danger of cross-pollination. Remove the bag and nip off any flowers that didn't set fruit. Importantly, tie something like some coloured thread or wool to the truss to identify it as the one you bagged. By the time you come to harvest the bagged fruit to save the seed, the plant will have grown, changed shape, and you'll never know which truss was bagged. As I know to my cost.
Not all flowers set fruit so it's a good idea to bag several trusses on a plant to increase your chances.
Italophile Thanx for that advice I will do as you said to ensure I get pure seed I'm also going to cross some to see what I get as a result that is if I don't have a disaster and something takes them all out
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MelspadeINNA MC wow 2 meters I wish we could let ours grow that tall over here I don't think we get enough warm sunny days over here. Thats probably why it says you can get 7kg per plant where I got my seeds.
philippa smith2 Hi yes by the sounds of it there big plants but that's OK as I haven't got a huge garden but its big enough to grow about 30- 40 plants without giving up to much space to grow all the other veg and fruit I grow. I really pack my garden with plants but I put the tallest at the back and the smallest up front so to maximize the sunlight to all the plants. Onions start up front and at the back will be the tomatoes not many weeds survive in my garden when everything is established lol. But everything produces well and it helps keep the soil warm in cool spells and cool during heatwaves it also keeps the moisture in during the worst droughts too. Its the first time tomatoes will be grown in my garden but I think they will do fine if we get some nice weather and it doesn't rain for months on end
Can someone tell me what leaders are I just saw an article that said Thirty days before last frost prune leaders to ripen. I know what suckers are but what are leaders? are these the tips of the side shoots?
What article was that? I would have expected it to say 30 days before FIRST frost prune leaders to ripen.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Leaders are the main stems with the growing tips. It's common practice to restrict plants to two leaders.
I'm a bit baffled by the last frost advice, too.
DovefromaboveItalophile I think they may mean first frost as it doesn't make sence
Christopher, I grew Amish Paste years ago back in Sydney to try them out. They're a meaty but pretty bland variety, not a lot of juice. Best for use in sauces.
You only need a single, sturdy stake to support each plant. They come in all sorts these days, including aluminium. I stick to timber for sturdiness, and, for plants that I know to be big blokes, use 7' stakes. The bottom foot to 18" of it is driven into the soil for a solid anchor. For tying up, try to use something with a bit of give in it. Tying too tightly with a rigid material risks cutting into a stem as it grows and develops in size.
If you're thinking of saving seeds from one of your pure varieties, be aware of the potential for cross-pollination. If you've got plants adjacent to each other, and insect activity, cross-pollination is on the cards.
It's a good idea to "bag" the fruit you want to save seeds from. I buy packets of those ankle-length tights/stockings things. Cut off the bottom 3 or 4 inches so the toe-end creates the bag.
Select a truss of flowers. The key is to do this before any of the flowers open. Once open, they are vulnerable to foraging insects. Nip off any foliage on or around the truss that will end up inside the bag. Any foliage you leave will only grow inside the bag and crowd things.
Slip the bag over the truss, enclosing all the flowers, and tie it closed around the stem. Don't tie too tightly, just secure the bag to the stem. If you see any foliage developing inside the bag, slip it off and remove the foliage.
The bag only stays in place until you see that one or more of the flowers has set fruit. Once the fruit has set, there's no more danger of cross-pollination. Remove the bag and nip off any flowers that didn't set fruit. Importantly, tie something like some coloured thread or wool to the truss to identify it as the one you bagged. By the time you come to harvest the bagged fruit to save the seed, the plant will have grown, changed shape, and you'll never know which truss was bagged. As I know to my cost.
Not all flowers set fruit so it's a good idea to bag several trusses on a plant to increase your chances.
I grew them last year fab looking but all got blossom end rot, think I got 1 and wasn't that fussed with the flavour
Italophile Thanx for that advice I will do as you said to ensure I get pure seed I'm also going to cross some to see what I get as a result that is if I don't have a disaster and something takes them all out
Stacey Docherty Blossom end rot is caused from deficiency's in the soil isn't it? Maybe that's why they didn't taste good?