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Water butts, decking, diverters and overflowing

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  • pariatepariate Posts: 77

    Glad to say we've avoided that one.  image  We've (the builder has) coated it since it was installed and we'll reapply every year. 

  • BookertooBookertoo Posts: 1,306

    Newbie mistakes are all the ones we have all made over the years, now we just make older mistakes!!  No one does everything right, and my idea of right may not be any one  elses idea of right anyway.  Do what you feel/think is OK, look in some good library books, enjoy whatever you do - and change it all next season when you decide it wasn't a good idea.  That is, basically, what gardening is much about. Have fun, enjoy - learn what you want as you do it and find it works for you. 

  • In torrential rain won't the decking get wet anyway? Never had overflowing problems with mine, but don't have decking either so not considered it. Lifting the butt off the decking to let air under might help a bit, if you can find something safe and stable.

  • pariatepariate Posts: 77
    trillium2cv wrote (see)

    In torrential rain won't the decking get wet anyway?

     

    Yes, but if the water butt were overflowing it would be the equivalent of having the downpipe directed onto our decking rather than the drain, which is an awful lot of extra water (i.e. all the rain collected from our roof) spilling over the decking.  image  Besides, it's the principle of the thing, rather than simply a fear that the decking will get a bit wetter.  Water butt is on a stand to allow us to get a bucket underneath the tap.  All sorted now, everything is in place.

  • stevenestevene Posts: 1

    By the water butt we could save lot of water which are having overflow from downpine .However in the event that the water butt were overflow it would be called having the downpipe coordinated onto our decking instead of the channel, which is a dreadful parcel of additional water overflowing the decking. The rain diverter does not have filtering capability.

    http://www.freeflush.co.uk/

    Last edited: 14 July 2016 08:25:12

  • We have a new waterbutt that overflows. Can someone explain how the diverter is intended to work please, it looks a bit unlikely that the water would stop flowing into the butt when it is full, as the easiest path for the water is probably out of any small holes in the lid of the butt.

  • A diverter will only work if it is at the correct level. If it is positioned to high up the drainpipe then the water will always go into the water butt so maybe that's whats happening to yours? The diverter needs to be at a height below the top of the water butt so that when the water butt is full the water level in the diverter will go over the edge and down the drainpipe.

    Sorry, I don't think I've explained that very well! Maybe someone else can do better. image

  • We have a new 7x5 shed, which has guttering diverting rain to a water butt.  I am wondering what to do about overflow.  Is there any reason why I shouldn't pipe the overflow to the flowerbeds on either side of the shed and then use porous pipe to gently release the water to the plants?  Might this drown plants? Literally asking for a friend...
  • wild edgeswild edges Posts: 10,497
    Ideally you need to send the overflow to a second water container that is large enough to deal with the maximum amount of excess water, about 100 litres would probably do it. Then set up a hose from a tap at the base of that container that is set to release water at a slow rate. You need to work out how fast the ground drains by trial and error and slow the flow so it doesn't flood it. Porous pipe might not work as it often needs a bit more pressure than gravity provides to force the water out of the pores. I tend to just drill holes into a standard hosepipe at intervals. When we have dry weather you can just shut off the tap and store the extra water as well.
    If you can keep your head, while those around you are losing theirs, you may not have grasped the seriousness of the situation.
  • Ideally you need to send the overflow to a second water container that is large enough to deal with the maximum amount of excess water, about 100 litres would probably do it. Then set up a hose from a tap at the base of that container that is set to release water at a slow rate. You need to work out how fast the ground drains by trial and error and slow the flow so it doesn't flood it. Porous pipe might not work as it often needs a bit more pressure than gravity provides to force the water out of the pores. I tend to just drill holes into a standard hosepipe at intervals. When we have dry weather you can just shut off the tap and store the extra water as well.
    Thank you for the reply.  Do you think there is a danger to trees and plants if the porous pipe is buried near the roots and wetting the soil constantly?
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